Katier

As stationmaster and I both said/implied - the beauty of the design isn't as specific as a fixed size. In OO I'd say the minimum you'd want is 3 coaches plus a loco (which could be a tank engine - or at a push (but really pushing it to the minimal) a 2 coach DMU or similar. So lets' go for the former - that gives you say 3'6" for the platform section, with tight points probably 2'6" for the points.. so rough guess would be you could squeeze it into a 6" length or 72". The length given in my link is 80" which would allow say medium points and a bit more room in the platforms.

Minories and it's variations will fit in a wide range of spaces so 'including squares' isn't really relevant. http://carendt.us/scrapbook/page61a/index.html scroll down that for the plan and original size (60x8in on 3mm/ft) although it lacks the squares, as I say above it's about the point layout not the size. You can squeeze it into something smaller (to a degree), or grow it in length quite happily.

Best thing to do is phone up 3SMR, Malcolm is a helpful chap and hopefully will know the answer.

Tracksetta is what you need Available in a HUGE range of radii, 10, 18,21,24, 30, 36, 42, 48 and 60 inch - at OO - Would 18/21/24 suit your needs? They're cheap enough and should do the job you need.

Well I certainly didn't expect to be an Early Riser today... but seems that is the case after a lady had a fall outside my flat and woke me up. Spent 30 mins with her waiting for the Ambulance. Seems to be a broken wrist but the poor girl will probably miss her flight.

And then surprise yourself in just how easy it was I'm itching to get round to trying something like Resin casting but everything else I've tried I've come away with "That wasn't hard" and "That was fun"... I now scratch build my own chassis, model in any material I can lay my hands on, mix medias, scratchbuild - the works. If I can do it, no reason rob can't!!

Personally I'd use a 'dumbell' configuration rather than helixes. Easier to implement and the general consensus is that 'under baseboard' fiddleyards are simply a pain in the butt. I think where Helixes work well is as an inter-connect between two scenic levels. I can't remember which layout it was ( was a video on here from memory), but I saw a a great layout that used them well to provide links between scenic levels, but for what you proposing a dumbbell or simple loop end would be a better bet.

Glass works!!!! Chance Brothers site is right next to the ECML in Smethwick (accepted that's not quite black country) but Stourbridge had also a LOT of glass production and indeed the tradition continues with The Ruskin Glass Centre (who hold an international glass festival) and the University of Wolverhampton who have the countries best University Glass facilities (formerly Stourbridge college of glass).

Non existant as they HAVE to include a rail connected pie factory!!!

Can't wait to see this one develop. I'm a northern Lass ( born in Sheffield ) but have grown rather fond of Wolverhampton and indeed live and work there

While all were built pre-group, 21 G5's were converted to push-pull working by LNER in 1937. Pre grouping I believe it was mainly G6 BTP's used on push pull in the NER.

Tilt shift does this VERY well. http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/85/London_Waterloo_Tilt_Shift.jpg/800px-London_Waterloo_Tilt_Shift.jpg No that isn't a model... despite appearances. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miniature_faking

Lovely layout, in the UK there is still a thriving community for TT/3mm modelling and indeed we have a 3mm section in the special forums here which covers all forms of TT and 3mm/ft modelling. While the only modern RTR is continental, the range of kit's is HUGE, easily as big as most other scales. Definitely a viable option for the UK as well as continental. Lovely example of modelling though, what track did you use? I know Tilling do a range, in the UK most people either hand build (with or without Society flexi track bases), use 3SMR, or Peco HoM.

Lovely little loco, what a contrast with 3mm/ft though.. Tiny loco and the entire motor is almost completely buried in the chassis.. Similar sized loco (say the J79) in 3mm and the entire body is motor!!!

So when is the 'heritage' bus service starting Phil?

I think most people do use the uploader, but as long as you have the copyright to the linked images (or permission) linking is fine. Andy is understandably warey of linking for the copyright reason, but is happy with sites such as flickr.

Just slightly the wrong region isn't is? Looks to be a respectible model in terms of what it could become.. but does need a complete strip down and repaint/detail. On the flipside... How can a Currently produced kit be very rare? Ok it's made by 3SMR now, but exactly the same kit is available from them.

Out of interest what is the benefit of the 2mm motor over the almost identically sized Mashima 1015?

Definitely true.. heck right now one of the advocates of 13.5mm (and others) is helping two 12mm modellers with their chassis!!! Although he did seem to think our current chassis needed a bit of light tweaking with a sledgehammer!!! (actually suggesting was better to start again but when I first read his post I though he literally did mean to bend the chassis - lol ).

To be honest Phil, I think you do the 3mm society a bit of a dis-service calling the scene a 'mess'. Yes you have 3 gauges to choose from and a fair argument can almost certainly be made for losing one of them. As 12mm is rooted in history that has to stay (plus is the continental gauge) and having a finescale alternative is only fair. That leaves 14.2 and 13.5 which is certainly can be argued is a gauge too many... BUT In actual face the ONLY items that are gauge specific are :- Frame spacers Pre-formed sleeper bases axles for loco wheels coach/wagon and similar wheels. Everything else isn't gauge specific, some kits might only provide one gauge frame spacers (for instance the shot down 7mm usually are 14.2 by default) but many people scratch build their own chassis anyway or use society/3SMR spacers so that's really a non-issue. In terms of new products, it's been fairly logical as far as I can tell. 12mm probably got the sleeper bases first and is the biggest customer base, then 14.2 and finally 13.5. Wheels are the same for all gauges so it's only variation in axle width that matters. Kits aren't gauge specific. Not sure how that's 'scattergun' ?

I THINK George runs 13.5 so the back to back is slightly narrower than specified which gives more working room outside of the wheels.

I think it would be interesting if we could get 3 photos organised of the same outside valve gear loco in all 3 gauges. Be quite interesting to do a side-by-side comparison the the arrangement of the motors etc. I can certainly see how a 10xx Mashima could disappear into a 14.2 frame as in 12mm it does nestle into the top of the frame already, the motor is pretty much exactly the outside width of the frame so the curved 'belly' nestles in the frames. I should add that GeorgeM, who is probably the leading advocate of 13.5mm, I believe does run a slightly altered spec as he feels that the published 3mm specification doesn't improve the clearance situation as much as it could do (without, of course, affecting the look of the model).

Hi John, I believe (but am prepared to be corrected) that the society that the society developed 14.2mm out of a finescale 'Scale 3' development in the early 70's and is equivalent to P4. 13.5 I suspect simply came about because people found 14.2 just too tight for comfort but still wanted a closer to scale appearance than the 12mm. There are naturally advocates of all 3 gauges but certainly isn't a gauge war and indeed the Society supports all 3 gauges . 12mm is the only option if you want RTR but i believe it's just about possible to regauge 12mm stock to 13.5 but not really practical to 14.2. Personally I went 12mm because I didn't want to make things clearance wise any harder for myself but 13.5mm gives a useful bonus of wider frames so you can fit gearboxes in just a little easier ( the highlevel boxes are pretty much an interference fit at 12mm). As I have not modelled in either of the two wider gauges I can't really say which is the best, however, the best place for that kind of advice would of course be from the 3mm society members. Kat