Barnaby

Today the Royal Mail Parcel Service called. Thanks Chris

Did some more droppers today.

Dainty indeed Chris.

Hernia op getting better but still not able to crouch down as the constant up down twinges a bit still. Started on making all the droppers ready for when I can get under but at least I can solder them in place once the track is all stuck in place on a bed of copydex. A Beautiful Green Ixion Fowler got paid for today, I'm looking forward to receiving it and dreaming of its work shifts on King Street Goods. Still not totally sure about that layout name, something to still ponder, street, lane, road. I Managed to cut the lawn today so that's progress too. Onwards

Tasty Chris, it sounds like you're going to be on the ballast gang for quite some time yet though. Best

Ahhha I just spotted an interesting point in that photo that I hadn't considered Chris. Just above the loco cab it looks like the wall is overlaid maybe because the wall is not straight, that's something I could coincide with sheet ends to my advantage, I like it. I'd give it a bit more depth so it looked intentional though and even create a safety spot to step into to avoid passing nearby trains. regards

I c no Wednesday ballast work pics yet but I do see some great stonework pics from Giles and CME. Butt joining plastic sheets [if I can use that phrase] is something that bothers me too. I've toy-ed with making jig-saw style cuts to get rid of the straight vertical line, using solvent to soften the edges and squish them together, then carefully clean up the ridges when dry or give up and just add abutments, weeds buildings etc to cover the joins. I did have some small success by OVERLAPPING the sheets, stuck down with solvent, tooth pick the horizontal joints and use filler to blind any unwanted join lines still remaining. The trouble is, it is very easy to make a not too obvious vertical line MUCH more obvious by adding solvent filing and generally playing about with it. I'll probably use a combination of all the above but one way that I might try is to stick the sheets to a support plate but dry fit the edges together in some filler so it oozes out, then gently wipe clean and tooth pick in the horizontal lines and see what that does. Regards PS I believe the SE sheets are a little longer than the other ones.

Looking good Chris, am I correct to think the ash is only being held by the wet paint? I understand why you are adding the card strips between the sleepers but I'm B******D if I can see them. I'll wait to see the Wednesday ballast proper photos. Regards

Life can be so cruel Chris but you just have to grin and bear it. CWM Bach is coming along nicely now, with the track starting to blend in nicely. Roll on the ballasting. Regards

Chaz that stonework sample is fantastic, as they say no pain no gain. That will definitely get away from the repeatability [boring] look you get with using plastic sheet. Similarly I notice some weathering is made along a panel with a dirty mix which is dab dab dab approach witch again gives the object that boring look because the stains get put at the same height and position along the object run. For me I intend to have three similar shades but noticeably different which I will dab on to the wall run and then give it an all over light dirt mist to combine everything. Well that's the plan when I get around to it.. Looking very good. Regards

Hi Chris does this help >>> https://www.google.co.uk/?gfe_rd=cr&ei=IftwU8COOKqCiAayoICgDA#newwindow=1&q=pdf+for+Peco+PLS-125+Smart+Switch+Servo+kit%2C The first one labelled PDF. Regards

I like it David, I'm reminded when I used to build and fly my R/C aircraft that if I didn't land rubber side down it was referred too "as re-kitting" Regards

Two brilliant statements there one from Chris and one from Osgood

I agree totally with that statement Chris. mind you I think you are sitting on the fence while being on both sides of it too I find the RTR kit allows me to get something ready sooner than if I had to build it all, I'm notoriously long winded in my build progress. I intend to have a working hoist but initially It will be static, then when I have my layout running I can re-visit various subjects to motorise them. I probably will have need of a tippler and or conveyor chute systems too. I'm hoping that I will be able to mechanise these off board and add them when proven while still allowing me to PLAY TRAINS. I also intend to have a large goods shed/warehouse which will allow HAND OF GOD access to remove or add loads so again providing some load movement. Regards

CME it is assumed that all wagons/coaches etc will have PIVOTAL couplings with only locos having fixed [non-pivotal] couplings. One of the couplings needs to pivot to enable uncoupling. Cheers

Hello Scott, If you look at he very first post which shows the plan and click on it you will see the layout is 12ft 5ins x 18ins. Regards

Yes Don the H&S did cause me to raise my eyebrows too. I chose to go for the shirt button type as the pole strength is then central directly over the centre, where as with a flat bar magnet the middle of the long side is the weakest. Just remember to test which pole is up [attract or repel] before you stick them down. Regards

Yes very true Chris but what I meant there was that I feel I have spent a disproportionate amount of time in the planning stage. I needed to confirm the plan and start the track lay. It is a hobby and planning is part of it but now I want to play too. no offence but very irreverent.

Nope all change see here >>> http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/84521-king-street-goods/&do=findComment&comment=1414607

Cheers Alan, I'm hoping that by going "public" I'll encourage myself to spend more time working on it. Screwed the 4f loco & tender frames together this afternoon, lovely pieces of work, all clean mill cuts & drill holes.. Must get in touch with Slaters to order the wheel sets now. Regards

Cheers Pete. I've had 18 months of starting on this so far got the boards built but faffed about tweaking the layout plan, but I'm there now. Here's the now stage.>>> + PLAN

Struggling not to run before walking I started to plan out a sequence chart on my pc that will allow me to print out the various movements, here's a snippet of it. Set the scene.docx

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/84329-looking-for-a-0-gauge-lima-4f/ The above LINK is a mixture of my thoughts and directions and plans for my layout but I'll continue it here with the future build progress of KING STREET GOODS.

See it's me I'm too slow by comparison LOL Ok I need to add these steps to my original post then: 0a/ dry lay track and mark dropper hole positions 0b/ drill dropper holes 1/ solder on droppers 2/ lay track into adhesive

Good God Chris I'm gasping trying to get my layout to a similar state seeing we started from a blank baseboard together. I just don't have the time available what with decorating, gardening, car maintenance, Grandkids, TV [MAF 370, government & Pistorius issues] I'll have to only allow myself to watch SKY NEWS the Papers roundup late at night. Then I get side-lined like with the Lima 4F project. Tomorrow I must lay some track, tomorrow I must lay some track, tomorrow I WILL lay some track ................................................... Regards EDIT Question: Chris do you lay down your track first then drill and add power droppers for the track or solder the droppers to the track first. I intend to follow this procedure. I'll probably be using copydex to hold both the track and ballast down 0a/ dry lay track and mark dropper hole positions 0b/ drill dropper holes 1/ solder on droppers 2/ lay down track into adhesive 3/ add bus bar under board for dcc operation 4/ use "snakes" [R/C aircraft control rotational to longitudinal mechanisms] for point control. Probably manual but could be servo controlled as I have a fair bit of my R/C aircraft stuff about. 5/ paint the track like NSE Daz of Shaftsbury fame. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/46840-shaftesbury-o-gauge-nse-venture/page-6 6/ add the uncoupling magnets 7/ lay ballast Easy to say "lay track" but that's 7 + 2 steps to do.