Jol Wilkinson

Hi Steve, yes, that looks just like it, it was such a distinctive arrangement. Jol

Steve, the attachment for the "over the top" ladder was such that the ladder rails curved over and back down vertically. This brought the top of the ladder quite close to the post and the arm or blinder, depending on front or rear mounting for the ladder. It's well shown in Richard Foster's book on LNWR signaling. It may be that the angle of the photo disguises it, but the ladder fixing to the post doesn't look vertical and the radius of the curve doesn't look tight enough. Jol

My biggest frustration about football is that it takes over the media, news programmes, etc. to the almost total exclusion of other sports, which are not usually played by overpaid prima donnas. And why aren't footballers paid on results, rather than "apparent" expertise or their ability to fall over and cry when touched by the merest breath of a breeze?

Mick, I stand corrected, I had only looked at the last few pages where the locos are fairly prominent. As for my comment, if something is in the most appropriate section, then those most interested in it are more likely to see it. Jol

Mick, nice work, but shouldn't these be in the Modifying and Detailing RTR section?

Is nobody modelling Scottish pre-grouping?

Think of yourself as a collector rather than a modeller, and you won't have to justify buying one.

Ian, for some of us the "fun of assembly" can be more important than quickly building yet another layout. As for Bachmanns's RTP products rapidly selling out, isn't that an indication of the unwillingness/inability of lots of modellers to actually make anything? Jol

Andy, I am torn between saying - Only 5%? - and - Which 5%? Jol

D*mn, yet another sign of increasing senility!

Thanks John, arms, blinders, ladders, lamps , etc. are from MSE. The posts are filed square brass rod, telescoped into square tube at the bottom. So did I until I studied Richard Foster Pictorial Record of LNWR Signalling which shows plenty of examples with the ladders at the rear, which matches the existing signals on London Road. Richard quotes a memo stating that from 1983 they were at the rear, fixed below the lamp bracket. The ladders were extended to loop over the top on the post from 1901. I did find a reference stating when the ladders were fitted to the front, but can't lay hands on that at the moment (which actually means I can't remember where it was). I've also attached a photo of the other new signal for the layout, the starter on Platform 4. A brass bar passes down the centre of the tubular post and its end will simply sit on a servo arm. Again this signal has been made removable for transportation of the layout. Jol Edited for poor spilleng!

John, I have used vertical servo mountings for three removable 4mm LNWR LQ signals. Two use MSE servo mounts, the other a bespoke unit as space was tight. In the latter case, the servo is fixed with double sided servo foam tape. The tall signal with two arms is a co-acting type, for visibility in a through station. Jol

Ah well, I can appreciate your annoyance, but constantly surfing RMWeb and reading magazines isn't actually modelling. At least he isn't looking at other naughty sites or magazines.

John, Because "dumbing down" isn't always a good thing. The person that has put in the effort to produce a model that is well researched and accurately modelled might well feel p*ssed off when his efforts are regarded as being on a par with something that requires little more effort than opening some boxes. Jol

Pete, so do I, but dropped bits "skid" across the floor and dissappear under desks, cabinets, etc. Perhaps a dimpled rubber floor is a possible answer? If it had magnetic strip under it the AG nuts would also stay where they drop. Otherwise, a saucer shaped laminate floor (with the bench in the centre) so all the bits end up in the middle. Jol

People who don't, but think that they do (a.k.a collectors). People that moan about an aspect of a kit/model and tell you how you should have designed it but who don't understand the design/production process and constraints. The total failure of anyone to invent a sticky high visibility flooring to catch the bit that you've just dropped and can't see (but doesn't trap the dirt).

Unfortunately that is less likey to happen when you make a more "historical" model, as fewer people will be aware of it's accuracy/realism (or otherwise). Even those things that we remember from our younger days are often distorted, especially with colours. How often have we returned to a place after many years to find that it isn't quite how we remembered it? Jol

Beautiful brass castings but sadly that close up shows that the whitemetal kit doesn't live up to the same standard.

But is that a model that you made or that you own?

I suggest you use a "slow" solvent for assembling the plastic parts, especially the body. Something like Limonene from Wizard Models works well. The more aggressive solvents such as Butanone can create distortion as they dry, pulling the ends/sides into a concave curve.