Gravy Train

hi Dave, I keep looking at that last photograph and trying to visualise it in a completed stated eg, ballast, scenery etc its going to look superb, the shape of the baseboards will certainly play a big part in the presentation of the layout. IMHO, I don't think the Vox amp as a backdrop will work somehow...lol Have you thought about what lighting you would be using, i know its probably one of the last jobs in some respects but there is the theory that if the scenery is coloured whils't under the lighting used for the layout you get a more accurate representation. In the past i have coloured the scenery and 'buildings' under a different light than what will be used on the layout and to find when all is set in stone and the layout lighting switvhed on, a different colour tone is represented. Sometimes to our advantage but other times not, it was just a thought and perhaps something to think about. ATB Peter

Hi Larry, How are you? It all sounds too technical to me when it comes to train formations and the like but very interesting and i suppose just as - if not more important to get right. Re mill,lol but meeting up with David in the early New year. Dave, the photos really are inspiring can't wait to get my teeth into my new layout, should be about ready for around 2025. cheers Peter

Hi David, It's great to see the buildings in situe on the layout, can't wait to see the same shots when all the scenics are done especially the one with the Delph train in the platform. cheers Peter (Gravy Train).

Hi Dave, I never ralised the baseboards were shaped like that they look stunning, 'high tech' modern stuff. Can't wait to see the builings in place as i'm sure you likewise. What will you do for lighting? cheers Peter

A few more pics, will try to get more across tonight.

A few more.

Hawick viaduct 4mm. 2nd batch of photos, will post uop each dsay if possible as there are many photos.

Hi, Just found this thread during my lunch break, some really nice modelling and attention to detail good colouring/weathering touches etc. I'm not familiar with the prototype to make comparisons but it looks geat. Look forward to seeing more. cheers Peter A L.

Hi Captain, thankyou for your kind comments. The mortar effect is achieved by coating the brick sheet with what you interpret as the the mortar colour on the prototype, when it is dry i then part dry brush the paint colour over the top with a small flat end brush at an angle aprox 45 degree usually a couple of coats does the trick. I have found that the mortar colour plays a big part in the overall colour of the brickwork eg, if you use a light colour and a dark colour with the same brick colour it gives a different overall effect on the brick colour making the colour look darker or lighter if that makes any sense. Another tip is to give it a wash of thinned down matt black to tone it all down. cheers Peter

LNWR box 4mm scale ( Gresty Lane ) This photo was took prior to the nameboard signs going on.

Poole goods shed 4mm scale ( half actual length. Will send more over later.

Hi Robin. Re tiles as Chris has pointed out the adhesive has stood the test of time so should be no problems there. Unfortunatley i won't be able to get to Watford on this ocasion would have liked to have seen the shed in the flesh ( or is it plastic ) having to curtail the trips to and fro due to workload deadlines, however i will be demonstrating at Doncaster and taking a trip to York and Rochdale as a punter so to speak. cheers Peter

Hi Robin, Its great to see this project come together stage by stage and looking very good indeed. However i am a bit concerned with regard to the adhesive backed tiles fixed directly to plasticard, i'm not sure what the adhesive is on the backing but with success i used the once available Exactoscale type and to find they lifted after a few months. The reason for this was that the chemical in the plastic reacted with the adhesive which formed the backing, to counter this i fixed cartridge paper directly to the plastic with liquid poly then fixed the tiling to that and to this day all has stayed put, its just worth baring in mind just in case. keep up the excellent work and sorry i couldn't get over to you at the Wigan show i never got one minuit to spare , hectic from start to finish. cheers Peter

Hi David, Whats different about them from an ordinary small artist brush? That's very difficult to answer, i'm not sure (apart from )most artist brushes i have used the bristles end up splaying out and become useless especially when gluing microstrip to clear plastic were you want a fine point. It must be the Bristles as with the Mek brush they allways form a point, i guess George Slater did his homework i have found nothing better to use than a Mek brush and hey will last you a lifetime and only a few quid to boot. Modelex sells them, chat to Pat Ryan and he will sift one out for you, i think Eileens Emp..does them too. Peter

Hi David, Whats different about them from an ordinary small artist brush? That's very difficult to answer, i'm not sure (apart from )most artist brushes i have used the bristles end up splaying out and become useless especially when gluing microstrip to clear plastic were you want a fine point. It must be the Bristles as with the Mek brush they allways form a point, i guess George Slater did his homework i have found nothing better to use than a Mek brush and hey will last you a lifetime and only a few quid to boot. Modelex sells them, chat to Pat Ryan and he will sift one out for you, i think Eileens Emp..does them too. Peter

Hi David, Whats different about them from an ordinary small artist brush? That's very difficult to answer, i'm not sure (apart from )most artist brushes i have used the bristles end up splaying out and become useless especially when gluing microstrip to clear plastic were you want a fine point. It must be the Bristles as with the Mek brush they allways form a point, i guess George Slater did his homework i have found nothing better to use than a Mek brush and hey will last you a lifetime and only a few quid to boot. Modelex sells them, chat to Pat Ryan and he will sift one out for you, i think Eileens Emp..does them too. Peter

David, i don't mind at all its good to get some feedback, thats what its all about boucing ideas of each other as i have said in earlier posts none of us have achieved perfection and there is allways more to learn and discover. Thanks for the kind comments. Red devil, Cheers for your kind comments also and i guess once living nearby it must be a bit ....... well i don't know what the word is but a bit like me comming across a model building of summut across the way from me so to speak. cheers

Hi David, Only just been able to get on RMweb. Mek-Pak can be purchased at Eileens emporium although the one i use is a bit more potent ( methyl Ethyl Ketone ), Daywat Poly can still be bought though i can't remember were i got it from. A Mek-Pak brush can be got at Modelex for around ??3.00 and well worth every penny and will last you a lifetime. Plastic weld is okay but you have to be careful not to over do it as it is heavy going and melts the plastic with eas, i prefare mek-pak as from experience it doesnt distort the plastic over a long period of time but if there is a golden rule ( don't rely on laminating to counter warping ). If you want to glue together larger areas of plastic eg,( fixing brick sheet to plastc as in a wall section ) try liquid poly applied to both peices as it is less ferocious and takes longer to go off giving you more time to fix the two parts together. If you have any more questions don't hesitate to ask away. cheers Peter

Hi Larry and cheers for your kind comments. It appears i have replies both on this post and on the blog, very weired, the photos you see are somewhat dated and taken right from the photobucket account i guess its down to finding time to post the photos over, there are photos of the station building also of which when i get chance i will post. cheers Peter

Hi Hymek2, Thanks for the kind comments. Yes, Evergreen strip 125x250 for the bracing, the little holes are for letting the vapour from the solvent escape as it is the vapour trapped in the box sections that do the damage. I glue both surfaces of the wall sections both the bracing and wall section with liquid poly to give that bit more time before going off, generally i use Mek Pak but for large areas liquid poly. Wherever i can i use etched or ready made windows but if in the case of a particular prototype 'like this model' i glue microstrip directly onto the clear plastic with mek pak avoiding the likes of plastic weld for this job as the mek runs freely ( capilliary action ), the plastic weld just freezes were you apply it so not good for this job. Skylights are done the same way although a bit more tedious but with practise you can get through the job quite quickly, it is worth using a mek-pak brush as it makes for easier aplication as the glue causes the bristles to form a point and it keeps hold of the solvent woithout it running off which can be the case with artists brushes. If you are intersted in the Architectural side of modelling i tutor a course on the subject at Hobby Holidays which is a weekend of hands on Architectural modelling covering all aspects of the subject, i will also be at BRM Doncaster as a demonstrator if you want to know more. I have started on the book si i guess its 'whatch this space'. cheers Peter A L. I

Hi Coachman and Dave H, Can't understand what is happening there i can get to it so easy, i thought it a bit strange not having any feedback from any of my posts i had concidered not bothering through lack of interest but as you say if no one can see it they can't respond. i will post up a new thread to see if that will work. cheers Peter

Hi Larry, Sorry, i know what you mean. If you type Gravy Train in search then scroll down to portfolio then once your in go to gravy train delph to get to the pics. cheers Peter

See full article in my blog in search @ gravy train scroll to portfolio then click on gravy train delph. I have added some photos to this post so you can view them until the problems are solved with accessing blog's.