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Here is a close up of the end of a cassette to give an idea of the construction. You will see a length of 9mm MDF forming the base of the cassette. This is painted with an outdoor wood paint to ensure it is waterproof and stable. Width is 55m, and I have made 15 at 1700mm length and 15 at 1400mm length. This is bolted to aluminium angle 1 in x 3/4 in x 1/16 in (1" is on the vertical). The walls of the cassette are Perspex, 2mm thickness and 65mm high. The strips were cut from sheet using a clamped (long) straight edge for a guide line and many passes with an Olfa cutter. The track is screwed to the MDF with the ends sitting on the copper clad, and being finely adjustable about a pivot point to finalise alignment. Here are some pictures of materials used. Straps and handles were also made. Bolted to the inside of the perspex and fixed across the top via screwed rod. Removable lids have been added to the tops of the cassettes. In 3 pieces, centre and either side of the handles. The lids clip onto the top by means of plastic angle sections which are attached to the lid via strong 2 sided tape. Notes: I preferred to have track rather than the aluminium profile for current pick up. The aluminium can become corroded causing poor power transfer and it also allowed the fine alignment needed for system I was using. The other advantage is that isolation is not needed for the handles (to prevent shock). All fixings of the cassette are bolted, so if I was crazy enough they could be totally dismantled. Thin plastic washers are used wherever a fixing comes into contact with the perspex (to prevent potential cracking). Holes for fixing over such a long length need to have some clearance to allow for differential expansion. Precise alignment of the cassettees to track is done by dowels underneath the cassette, with the cassette able to float in the length direction (again to allow expansion). Fixing dowels. Hopefully this gives enough of a flavour for how it was done. If more details are needed I will dig out the info. Dave

I had to look more than twice at Geoff's colliery photo to believe it was not the prototype. Stunning! 'Bad' track can be modelled successfully if plausible and in the right setting. Iain Rice has recently presented an article on this subject, MRJ No. 283 'Thoughts on modelling bad track'.

Just got this notification. I'll send some info tomorrow, but just confirming you would like details base, walls and lids of the cassettes? Dave

I expect this to be part of the first batch. The second run will not be available for some time, whereas the ebay offer is for September '21 delivery. At some time there should be replacement bogie and buffer beams for the first batch. Perhaps these have the same production run as the second batch? I am assuming the bogie / buffer beam errors will be corrected for the second batch plus perhaps some other modifications / refinements. For example, easier dcc control of the lights. From an earlier post it seems that the rear cab windows are not included in the second batch, but it would be great if the tender axle box spring clasps were included this time.

Out walking with the lads yesterday. Started at Ampleforth College, and just happened to come across R&DSME Gilling East on route. Good spot for a lunch stop. On benches, sunshine, fresh air and a B1 running around - great stuff. Dave

Just found this:

I have already approached Hornby on this matter and I expect to get the wheels at some time in the near future. There will be a bit of a wait, but I have always had good service from the team. Here is a copy of the reply: Thank you for your email. Unfortunately we currently have no stock available for the below requested item at this time. I'm afraid we currently have no estimated date for delivery of these items but they are ordered and will be available at some point in the near future. I apologies for any inconvenience this may have caused, If you require any further information please do not hesitate to respond to this email and I would be happy to assist where possible. Kindest Regards, Hornby Hobbies Quality Team.

I am reminded of the Elvis Presley "disc", Love Me "Tender"

New thread started under structures https://www.rmweb.co.uk/index.php?/topic/167093-lattice-girder-deck-truss-bridge-kit-bashing/ Dave

The truss framework: The construction of the basic elements of the Findhorn viaduct girders are varied and complex. a) The outer beams are plates with attached angle making outward facing flanges. These are either plated, left open with internal gusset strengtheners or laced. b) The diagonals mostly have inward facing channel sections, with lacing joining the flanges. What is rather strange is that some of the diagonals have different designs which vary as you move between the ends and the centre of each span. Double laced, single laced and simple straps are evident. The photo below might give some impression. The bridge kit girder components consist of outward facing channel sections connected by full plates, gusset plates or by lacing. So, some more compromise. A design will be needed to get as close as possible to the prototype. First, the box section girders on the outer part of each frame. Lower and upper beams The closest copy is to use the gusseted girders with 'open' design at the lower beam, and closed (outer side fully plated) for the upper beam. The end (vertical) beams can be constructed very close to the Findhorn original using Just managed to spot the end verticals on this photo. Each of the girder sections is supplied on the sprue in two halves which have to be joined and then cut to length at the optimum position. To estimate the number needed a few assembled girders are lined up against the original template (6 out of 8 spacings are used for the new bridge). The two diagonals will meet at the lower beam. Note that there are no verticals in the centre portion of the new truss arrangement. Gusset plates will be removed to allow the diagonals to enter the beam. Method for joining and aligning the two halves of the top and bottom gussetted beams Drill bit size No 26 (9/64") Cleaning up following adhesive (showing the 3 types of girders) I reckon 2 pints of outer beams cleaned and ready for cutting after a new template is produced Next, to prepare the diagonals Dave

The V2's correct tender wheels!

Below is the basic frame layout of the truss sections. There will be 4 frames (2 per track). The number of sections per frame has been reduced from 8 (Findhorn) to 6. By scaling from coach lengths, the bridge span and depth could be estimated, but it will be reduced to 6 sections to align with the pitch of the cross bearers and stringers supplied with the CVMW kit deck arrangement. Starting with the deck: Initially, parts are used from the Central Valley Model Works bridge kit These will include the cross bearers, splice/joiners and stringer plates. Unlike the kit instructions, in the case of a deck truss bridge, the splice joiners will be flush with the bottom of the cross bearers as both the cross bearers and the stringer will rest on the truss framework. The assembly is connected (glued) at the pins of the stringers and the holes of the splice joiners only at this stage. This will allow squaring of the deck to be done after further parts have been added. The assembly is 6 sections long instead of the 8 of the Parker truss. The end plates for the deck were subsequently replaced with cross bearers as per the mid sections. This will enable the fixing of the outer part of the deck plate and the handrails to be the same over the entire length (as on the Findhorn). The splice joiners at the ends were trimmed to give just a small extension on the outside of the cross bearer. The deck assembly has been taken as far as possible for now, as I'm waiting for some styrene profiles to make rail bearers, intermediate cross bearers and supports / stiffeners for the deck plate. Next will be preparation of parts for the truss frames.

Would love to see the layout that this great bridge will sit in. Any plans? I have just started a thread on the lattice girder deck truss bridge - kit bashing. It's going to take a good deal of time, but very few rivets to punch (unlike Tony's Little Bytham bridge). Thank Goodness! https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/167093-lattice-girder-deck-truss-bridge-kit-bashing/ Dave

The plan: To add a single span, lattice girder deck truss bridge to left side of the stone viaduct as seen towards the back in the photo below. The stone viaduct was constructed using the 'Townstreet' range. The pier and abutments are kit bashed, again using the Townstreet castings. The deck truss bridge will be based on the marvelous Findhorn viaduct. Unfortunately there is only space for one span - it will be 530mm long. I will try to use as many components as possible from bridge kits produced by CVMW, plus various bridge girder and kit components that the same company supply separately. No doubt there will be a great deal of additional styrene profile, and perhaps some details etches to add as I go along. A picture of finished bridge kits below are very much different to the deck truss bridge, but some components, especially for the deck can be readily adapted. The exact detail of the Findhorn viaduct cannot easily be copied. Even if I were to get construction drawings, I would need to start from scratch with photoetch design. So being pragmatic, I guess as long as the bridge is of the same proportion, has a similar basic layout and elements of the Findhorn viaduct, I will be satisfied. One big change though, will be to convert the bridge to double track (to suit my layout). The other requirement is to ensure that the bridge looks British rather than American (as intended for the CVMW kit). The deck will be plated and ballasted unlike the open deck, and lets face it the bridge will end up looking completely different with the truss frames underneath. Planning and construction has started and I will give an update on progress later this week. Dave

John Thanks for replying so quickly with the information. Just so happens I bought one of those from Metalsmith some years ago. Unused as most rivet formation on brass has been done with the London Road Models gravity punch into half etched holes. I expect the Metalsmith riveter with the anvil will be much better on plasticard so thanks for the reminder of what is in the cupboard! I am planning to build a version of the Findhorn viaduct via a number of kits from CVMW and lots of extra bits of styrene and perhaps etches. Might start a new thread on that one under structures? Cheers Dave

Good mixture of materials, resin, styrene and brass wire. I have done plenty of riveting on brass before. Was wondering what method you used on the styrene and if that would also be suitable for 4mm. Dave

Martin Only just found this post - thanks. Wonderful looking bridge and the video gives some great views of the construction details. I'm planning to use the Findhorn Viaduct design as a basis for a double track deck truss bridge. This will involve a great deal of kit bashing (CVMW bridge parts), to get the 'British look', and extra detailing using styrene profiles and perhaps etches. I might well show the design and build technique on a separate thread? Big job I reckon, but I did a kit bash from single track kits to produce this a few years back - great fun! I still need to do the deck details on this one (probably ballast over plated) with internal guard rails added to the sleepers plus walkways. This might help to 'Anglicise' a rather American looking bridge.

Seems to be the case but access can still be done (for now anyway), by going via the Facebook link on the KR Models web page

Secrets out! Great that NYMR has had an alternative income during the pandemic - two film productions. This one and a Tom Cruise movie. Dave

A German 9F!

I reckon Santa Claus can go on holiday this year.

Came across this by accident when hunting for bridge guard rail information. Basic stuff, but the explanation of how switches and crossings work is excellent. Useful for those starting in track building. Lots of very interesting stuff on U-tube Network Rail. Did not find what I wanted. Looking for design / picture of running rail and guard rail laid on longitudinal timbers with transoms / tie rods gauging the width. To be used on a bridge design. Any help would be appreciated. Dave

I'm currently working on yet another bridge. The plan is to create a bridge based on the marvelous Findorn Viaduct (as below), which is a lattice truss deck bridge. It will be converted to double track, and I'm hoping to use many of the components from a CVMW double track Parker truss bridge. Quite a task , so lots of kit bashing and extra bits of styrene will be needed. I'm still undecided about the track. The existing rails are laid on standard ballasted sleepers with internal guard rails. I would like the option of using longitunal sleepers as below But the bridge would need the guard rails as well. I have hunted high and low for a design / picture of running rails and guard rails laid on longitudinal timbers with the transoms / tie bars gauging the width. Any help with this would be appreciated. I seem to remember seeing this formation on an exhibtion layout but was that based on a prototype design? Dave

Thanks for the update. I'm not on facebook. Would appreciate a copy and paste here if that is OK with you.

Enjoy the ride. Luckily, the NYMR is near by. Wonderful scenery when out walking but need to get back on board, especially after seeing the Pullman dining car. It's been too long. Dave