zr2498

Great explanation of the need for the standard tail lamps, hence the lamp brackets if running light engine. Please excuse my lack of knowledge. How about the reverse movements what would be showing on the tender. Would that be a white oil lamp?

Thanks for your help with this and the pic. Must get those lamp brackets on. They appear to be painted the same colour as the body so difficult to see sometimes.

This all seems so logical. Before I start with colour changes, rewiring and CV changes it would perhaps be great to come up with a plausible solution before snipping any wires. a) Red instead of white lights on the front above the buffer beam, for short movements in reverse (even if not used in practice). Normally OFF, would come ON in REVERSE as part of directional lighting function. b) Ability to turn tender tail lights off when running forwards (operational) and coupled up to stock c) Assume a standard white oil lamp used on a lamp bracket on the tender when in reverse? Would this be done in practice? Could do with some advice on this one but in reality for the odd occasion when this is done on a layout we are hardly likely to take lamps on and off!

How about this scenario. The GT3 did not 'run / operate at speed' in reverse but slow speed yard and coupling movements were clearly needed and this was done via the reversing gear (thanks No Decorum). For these small movements the lights may have been the same as for forward running? In which case the lights (front white and rear red) would remain ON. Is that better than no lights at all which would be the case as there are no 'directional' lights fitted. This is why I asked the question earlier. How are the directional lights which have been fixed on the second run represesented (as there are no white lights on the rear and no red lights on the front?) I have done a simple fix (for DCC) with the F20 button via function mapping which will keep lights the same for forward and reverse (only if selected). I also asked how to turn the rear reds off when coupled up as this would be the most useful fix. I expect this need a wiring change. David

Thanks Michael for this update. Guess I will stick with the red cab lights and the white lights under the buffer beam if that is the best info to hand. You mention that the directional lights will be fixed on the second run. How will this be represented, even though the GT3 did not run backwards? It would also be useful if the tail lights could be switched off when coupled up to rolling stock. Will that be possible with DCC on the second run? I very much appreciate what you are doing to deal with the small corrections on the second run. I have been so impressed with the model that I have ordered ANO but with having a first run already if there could be a set of instructions for upgrading to the same level as the second run that would be great. David

Agree John. The red light in the cab may have been fairly low intensity and perhaps more inclined towards amber rather than bright red. As for the model I could live with the red if the brightness could be turned down. I tried doing this via the function mapping as it is a V5 decoder but perhaps this LD is not dimmable? I'm pleased that the tender buffers will be round and I expect the front bogie guard irons / buffer beam / steps will be corrected as per the replacements to be sent to us who purchased the first run. It would be handy to know what changes will be included in the second run. For example will the straps over the springs of the tender be included. It could be that these specification changes including some decoder settings are being worked on. Dave

Double sandpipes delivered. Thanks Hornby Service. Now I will be able to have 3 sandpipes each side as per the prototype. There should be one each side of the centre driver.

Liking this photo of the bridge with plenty of traffic! Thanks Tony Dave

Oh dear. This is what happens when you just try and help someone with a possible option. I think this reaction especially on Tony's thread is uncalled for.

Here is a possible solution but not cheap. https://www.lux-modellbau.de/ Dave

Not acceptable. Resources should be put in place to get them out much sooner. How frustrating for you.

Well done getting these. Assuming an email to Hornby is all that is needed

More info on the problem and the fix might be useful. Assuming this was the loco - not tender? The GT3 tender pick ups are through the bearings. I have used a conductive lubricant for this. This fixed a problem on Bachmann Class 40's (before they have added the extra wiper pick ups on later models) as the factory gungy grease resulted in crazy stuttering.

Does anyone reckon that person(s) from Hornby read these posts. It does give a reasonably balanced opinion and useful feedback on their models. If so, then surely a response from them about their forward plans to rectify issues re quality control and plans to make future models even better, such as a better colour, ease of maintenance and optional customer upgrade capability (further detailing, dcc, sound, lighting). There is a great deal that is excellent about these models (good runners for example), and I realise that as they become more detailed it is more difficult to get the right balance between ease of assembly and fragility. I worked for many years on projects from the design phase to the installation and commissioning. The greatest improvements to next generations of designs was to get out there and encourage direct feedback from the customers (even if it was sometimes hard to bear). But this did lead to continuous improvement, improved satisfaction and confidence. I see so much experiecne and expertise on these RMWeb threads. Come on Hornby (and others) open up the listening doors. David

Yes, already included. KR Models are probably feeling flushed with success.

T E Williams - another volume. These are excellent colour photos if accurate weathering is to be done based on the prototypes rather than guesswork.

Guys In response to an number of concerns: I have the boxes stacked near to where the loco lifts are loaded to the track, so I would normally just remove one lift at a time for loading and unloading. I have lifted a (shoe) box full of them carefully over a short distance but would not risk going up / down stairs with it. Occasionally I will take a loco on it's lift downstairs to the workshop. This is usually accompanied by a finger on the top of the loco just to ensure it does not slide. If it is weathered a small piece of bubble wrap on top prevents any marking. I have checked the slideability and with most locos the tilt has to be above about 20 degrees to slide, so as long as not too many beers this is easily achieved. Slipping sideways is difficult. The loco lift bed is low profile (not elavated on rails), and the aluminium section each side would stop the loco if it left the copper grooves. I have not included the foam pieces as suppied with the assembly as I feel it easier to keep them level by using the 2 ends as handles. Perhaps if more distance is regularly needed then a piece of foam trapped between the uprights at the ends would be the easiest method. This has been used with cassette systems for years. Now to frighten you. Below are 1.7m long cassettes which are used to store rolling stock. Work in progress. These are mounted on a telescopic slide system which can be mechanically indexed. To stop the stock rolling off there are levers at each end which will raise as the cassette is lifted. The 'stopper' on the lever is aligned for buffer height. The design of the cassettes was a bit of a project to see what could be done with minimal manual intervention. The cassettes fit onto alignment dowels (one end) and aligment slots the other end (to allow for expansion). There are spring loaded plungers underneath which picks up power from the two BUSes and the perspex covers with removeable lids are to keep the stock as clean as possible. As I said work in progress, so fingers crossed it all works out! Dave

I have sent this to Peco

Toilet at rear of tender - bottom! right of this picture. Not sure if curtains were fitted.

Great film. Enjoy.

Great film made at minus 1 year old me. A2/3 Edward Thompson at 10mins 25sec. Close up detail - be careful not to make too many comparisons with the model! Enjoy

Well spotted. Same here on my A2/2 and A2/3 and as you say it is shown on the box cover. Will be interested to see if Hornby technical get back to you. Perhaps they will send them out?!

They are great models. It would take a small step up in the QC to make a significant improvement re the build. The colour is another matter. As one can go to the DIY store and get a colour match how can this be so wrong. Perhaps no one has defined what exactly is the correct specification. How about a OO gauge model railways colour chart!

Hadn't noticed but yes. On my T of F one of the steps is pointing West North West and the other is mounted too high up the ski slope. Not an easy modification?

Bob I guess you need to get this track down before the 'completed' APCM van kits will be able to run on it! Logical priorities don't always prevail though. Dave