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I know it's been quite some time since you did this conversion. I am about to embark on the same as it would be fitting to have a coverted 9F pulling the Consett iron ore wagons. I have the Lanarkshire pumps and plna to scratch build the air reservoirs plus note all the other improvements you have made. Of course the Dave Alexander kits are no longer available, but what would be useful is a copy of the instructions for the kit as I understand there is much dimensional details. Perhaps a photo of those might be possible if you still have them to hand. I am trying to get a single chimney from DJH as the Bachmann locomotive I have has the correct tender but a double chimney. Regards David

Well that id really stupid and of no use to anyone wanting to check their orders. Please can we have the old web site back.

I have activated the new account. Now I have no orders! I reckon it has gone belly up.

Thanks to all for giving very useful information on couplings. I suspected that corridor connections might be 'levering' the magnets apart. It would be useful to have some data re the Hunt magnetic couplings = what is the uncoupling force and then measure the pulling force (static and dynamic) needed for the rake for comparison (around curves which will increase rolling resistance). I guess the other thing to look out for is how square the magnets are sitting in the plastic socket. I have tried the Roco couplings as well. Not all coaches are equal and sometimes the corridor connections prevent the couplings closing fully. All in all there are some choices other than the tension locks and of course fixed rakes can be protypical screw link or 3 link for wagons. Dave

Tony I have heard that the Oxford Rail model is a good runner. It looks as though the smoke box door and chimney shapes (around the rim) are somewhat different. Here is a view of the preserved: Still is very good value for money. Dave

Yes, they have been around for quite a while but for some reason with the upgraded design (improved foam = EVA), the price has doubled. It will be interesting to see what price the the new Peco PT-60 and PT-61 come in at and just how many can be coupled together whilst maintaining rigidity. And of course if the new design would fit into the shoe boxes as explained above.

I will add to the job list as a fair bit of work needed to explain all. The brass strips are basically a spring loaded lever arm. At one end it is pushed up and let down by a pin which protrudes through the underside of the cassette. At the other end is an arm set at 90 gegrees with a rubber buffer fitted over wire. As the cassette is loaded onto the telescopic deck the pin pushes to lever up = down at the buffer end so that stock can run through the end of the cassette. As soon as the cassette is lifted the opposite happens and the buffer comes up. This is set at buffer height of the rolling stock and prevents the unwanted unloading out of the ends. The same could be achieved by pieces of foam but wanted an auto system (to see what could be achieved), and one less job to do when changing stock. Dave

I am using C & L code 75 bullhead. Two ways to deal with this. a) Have a code 100 track loading area with a 100 / 75 joiners between them - of course off scenic area in the fiddle yard b) A trick is to lift one end of the cradle - put a 5mm thick plastic spacer under one end and then the copper piece and the track top will not leave the gap at the other end. This method means it can also be used on curved track Not sure what the new lifts can do. Pity there wasn't some info on this before the design phase. Needs to sit on all tracks. Perhaps the new one will if it can sit on N gauge? Would also have been good to be wide enough for P4 and EM but perhaps then not enough adjustment available into N? Dave

Thanks for heads up on the new thread. Dave

Looks as though a new version is on the way https://www.themodelcentre.com/pt-61 Have not given a price as yet. Nor dimensions. Can be stacked in the horizontal and vertical. Interesting that DCC Concepts have just sent out a reminder about their MPD. I guess the SL-43 will be no longer available, hence no reply as the new version was to be kept under the radar

Has anyone heard if the wheel sets will be running in bearings, unlike the Bachmann design?

Hi Wayne A great demo of what can be done (in the extreme) to curve the turnout. Have you tried the straight cast crossing on this turnout? It would be good to see and how it fits with the likely fettling as Martin pointed out in an ealier post. Then test with some stock? Dave

Thanks for the demo / review - looking great in such a short build time! A couple of questions - apologies if already covered in previous posts. Can I assume all of the rail material is Nickel Silver How much curvature could be applied to this turnout If there is to be transition into flexi track at 16.5mm would that be done in the flexi track rather than on the turnout. Dave

Just finished the sound and firebox flicker installations on A2/2 Thane of Fife, and A2/3 Suncastle using the same method and components as Mike Wild - Hornby Magazine. Superb sound as can be heard on his videos. The only differences were the use of a 1K ohm resistor with the LED to get a more visible but subtle / realistic effect when the layout lights were turned down, and a LaisDCC 2 pin micro connector for the extra wires between loco and tender which is useful when separating them for such as weathering. The LED as shown below was subsequently moved further back so that the tip of the LED was flush with the firebox door. Visually more realistic. This is the video from Mike: And the sound demo: Have also fitted the missing 3rd set of sandpipes which Hornby very kindlly sent and a screw link coupling on the front buffer. Here is a list of components used: Now to do transfers, plates and weathering. Slight change of plan now I have seen Tim's paint job above! Dave

Tim I was going to just put Fox transfers over the existing boiler bands, but now you have shown the way of getting a much better look. Presumably air brushed Phoenix. Any varnish used before loco lining. Love the weathering as well, as not needing to be overdone to 'bury' the Hornby colour. Looks like a hard working loco but well cared for. Did you base the weathering on a colour prototype photo. Would be interested to see if you found one. Dave

Recommended Must get the painting done! Dave

Bob Oh dear - I am part way through the conversions and was feeling bad about not getting on with them. Now it's getting really difficult to know which way to turn. I guess the conversions are a way of 'keeping busy', however ......... Dave

Thanks Patrick and Fran. No excuses now. Will have to get a rake and do some renumbering. Dave

Any pictures out there of HAA HOP AB in the early years (65/66), hauled by green diesels (era 5)?

Surely if you have ordered two by mistake you should be able to cancel one order and get a refund?

Looks great with the correct colour boiler bands. Have received a set from Fox plus the nameplates. Did you fit the bolier bands directly over the existing and did it need a gloss coat beforehand? This would be my first attempt so please excuse my questions. Were you able to fit each of the bands in on piece by sliding under the handrails. I guess Klear would do the same job as your Testors gloss varnish. Assuming the remaining lining is good enough to leave as is. David

Great to see yet another great model coming out from Accurascale. To sqeeze the wagons inside (just) period / era 5, then some renumbering might be needed as ideally B prefixed numbers up to B351841were built between 65 and 66. Will have to check for transfers?

Had a look through 'Hush-Hush The story of the LNER 1000' by William Brown. Page 73: The colour is made of lead colour in paste with a mixture of common black paste mixed with varnish and turpentine.

Thanks Iain and Jonathan for the extra info. Currently away from home but will check on my return at the weekend. The photos will be a great help. Cheers David

Superb work Iain. Interesting that you will be constructing the D&S cane. I recently purchased a part built kit on EBay and not sure what all of the remaining parts are or even if they are all present and correct. If you get a moment spare sometime I would certainly appreciate some photos of the parts, especially the frets with the part numbers. I reckon some parts I have do not even belong to the kit just to make it even more puzzling.