N15class

The full or empty ones.

What delightful progress.

I preferred the 4-6-0's without the smoke deflectors.

Thanks Chris I asked because I'm rebuilding one I bought from GOG E&T. Truth is if you had finished I was going to do a bit of cribbing. Here's mine so far.

I've heard they are similar to the her plate bogies, different axle boxes etc. I will need some for 7mm coaches. So need to discover too.

Chris Did you ever finish this R class?

Very nice Ken. The old Shedmaster kits were blown up Jidenco kits. Laurie who now has them is slowly making them better.

I had one, never got around to building it. GWR not my thing, it got sold with all the other 4mm stuff.

Shame they used the American song title not the English one.

I sometimes think you are in competition with Hornby.

Just an update about things that are passing across the bench. There will be no below by blow, as it's a pain sorting out the photos. Almost complete apart from splashing some ref paint about, adding numbers and transfers, and of course putting together. There's also an LMS 2P not a good kit but the frames work well and need detailing. The body was poor. The boiler smoke box were about 0.5mm too high. The cab and firebox, were another 2.5mm higher. These have been remade. More sometime.

Glad to see you back in the saddle. I'm sure you'll soon be up to speed.

Sorry to hear that Ken. Hope all mends quickly.

You really need photos of both sides of the loco you want to model, in the period you are modelling. Not always possible, but get as many as you can of them within the modelling period. Then it's down to questions and educated guesses.

Must be worrying having a fix or repair daily, assembly of just enough essential parts.

What you have to remember is that horizontal planking is not a vee groove. It is a chamfered top of a plank, with a square edge to the bottom of the upper plank. This is to help keep the water out of the join. I use a one sided skrawker, that I sharpened. Will only cut with ruler one side. Also good for louvres. Vertical planks are generally chamfered on both edges. Knives and scribers are no good as they do not lift out any material.

Welcome aboard the scratch building train. It is basically the same as kit building but there are no parts to try and work out what they are. Firstly there is no need for lathes or mills, yes they can help, but it can be done by hand. As above make the rods first, as a pair of making sprung or compensated frames. Or together with the frames if rigid. The thing to remember most of all, is get each bit right before moving onto the next. If the coupling rods aren't right the frames won't be right. Once you have the chassis running well start the body. A nicely finished body on frames that don't work is depressing. A poor body on good frames is easy to improve. But most of all, remember it's supposed to be fun.

Shez I use magic tape. If lined I do before cutting and fit after painting but before varnishing, For plain colours I paint the tape apply again after painting.

Very nice Ken. What is it made of? The cab looks like Zinc.

I see the transfers reappeared on flea bay, so he didn't play ball. Wagon is coming on nicely, I do like your valves.

Nice break from the loco. The brake looks very nice. It's good to get on with other things, sorts out the mojo a bit.

I've seen APOC transfers on Ebay recently, in a collection for sale. Still on there, not sure if they are what you are looking for. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/O-Gauge-Wagon-Transfer-sets/123981412667?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144

I normally find the appropriate one just after scratch building a part that's lost or not included.

The more models you build the greater selection of spares you get.

Hope you will empty said can first, might get a few spares. I've not sprayed acrylics, but I'm sure somewhere I heard windscreen wash makes a suitable thinner retardant, but please I've never tried. Anyway the wagon looks the business.