MJI

Spent today doing C1 and electrification flashes then decided to reunite chassis and bodies and found I have lost a 2E chassis as a few boxes lopped off and single fan fitted. AGHHHHHHH So grabbed an open first, stripped it down and used that chassis, that FO will become a WR 2F FO.

Got to say this Tony but the more you learn the more you realise that you do not know. I have learnt so much I feel incredibly stupid sometimes.

Changing of skills really, the biggest skills hurdle I ever had was at work around 18 or so years ago, if anyone wants to learn about some very basic programming methodoligies please ask.

OK There are three ways of doing widescreen. The proper way, the rubbish way and the acceptable way Proper way is normal HDTV. stuff as Blu Ray, some broadcast HDTV and most current generation video game machines. 1920 x 1080 for 16 x 9, this is square pixels, looks really good. The acceptable way was how Freeview works with standard definition, as per BBC1 2 and so on. Also the Proper way of doing widescreen films on DVD in the UK 720 across and 576 down used as 16 x 9, however the pixels would be rectangular, but this is the best picture you can get for detail from standard definition. This is called Anamorphic Widescreen The rubbish way is letterboxing, or why the Titanic DVD was rubbish. The whole picture is 720x568 but as 4x3, old squarer TVs, like the old PAL broadcasts pre digital TV. For a widescreen film they put large black bars top and bottom so it looks OK on a 4x3 TV, but DVD players can easily down scale anamorphic to fit 4x3. But wiht widescrren TVs you have to zoom in and get worse picture quality, you only get 426 visible lines rather than 568. It looks bad! I hope this is not confusing, any questions just ask. I would rather have questions and people learning than saying who cares.

I hope they do 2D also so that accurate sets can be made up without lots of carving up. Are you changing regions as well? 2D are mainly ECML with a few TSOT, FK, BFK on the Western Region 2E are everywhere but ECML, WR are mainly TSO 2F are mainly WCML but some FO are WR So I have 5 x 2D TSO, 3 x 2E TSO, and 1 x 2D TSOT from 8 TSO and 2 BSO I thought I had more 2E TSOs but after a big stock take I worked out I had only bought 8 Airfix TSOs. All of the Western region air con sets seem to be mainly 2E TSOs, 2D BFKs, random FO and FK and the odd W19xx buffet, but I have seen ER aircon sets on the Lickey route. But very belatedly I found that Airfix aircons make better late 2Cs than Lima, just when I had only 1 toilet etch left

£18 on Ebay with postage but then add the £20 for Shawplan bits. However for rake 3 what do I use? Biggest problem is that most WR sets are 1CDEF mixes with pairs of BFKs. This keeps pushing Airfix due to price of BSO FO

Colour and B&W B&W is much better when sourced from a luminance only medium like B&W film (I like Tri X), converted from a colour medium especially when RGB rather than luminance with colour differences. The worst B&W I have seen recently was on an expensive Sony LCD TV which however does standard to high def upscaling rather well. But since my B&W stuff is very limited it took until recently to notice. In the old B&W TV days B&W looked better on a B&W TV. Now to colour balances. I have had 3 video cameras, all same make, but all different technologies. Yet you can tell by the colours (and build quality) that they are the same make. The tube camera with portable VCR was fantastic in the 80s, camera was low on features but good on picture quality, the portable undoubtedly best of generation. About 15 years ago I went DV 16x9 as well not letterboxed, looked great on a tube widescreen TV, colours very similar. Most recent is HDV, again matching colour balances. Compared to a Canon which seemed muted even in high summer. And autumn colours were not obvious. I do want a digital camera sometime, I know what sensor brand I want, but not camera brand. From my experience a high end Sony sensor is still worth having. This does seem to point to Nikon.

Most go carty car I have ever driven was my old Sunbeam. I had it during the end of the hot hatch era, it was old then but went well enough. Had all new suspension though, forest springs and competition struts Had two very funny TLGPs One was a MG Metro and I had a trailer on (full of lightish stuff), the other a warm hatch who red lined when I hit power band (tall gearing). However one FWD hot hatch found out that RWD cars take different lines in tight bends. I do miss that car.

After seeing what Peter Jackson said about WW1, they saw colour and remembered it like that. Monochrome is fine for artistic reasons, but my favourite 1960s stuff is Ivo Peters Cine footage.

I made a mess of our work microwave with tinned soup. Just tipped into bowel and nuked. Someone said to put a plate over the top. Didn't I do it at home? We don't have a microwave oven, as hardly used it and it was starting to fail. Boiling in saucepan is no slower than using a microwave oven. Things in kitchen, I got very technical when we replaced the oven and stuff. I have also repaired the washing machine. Funning that I can quote model numbers of TV, PC CPU (Q8200), a few of my VCRs but not the kitchen white goods.

All of mine are structurally OK Sawing underframes is not easy!!!! Glues well also for BFKs

I work them over, etched frames and laserglaze 5 TSO still TSO, 1 is TSOT and 2 are now 2E It is nice to have a rake of matching vehicles hence the 2F FOs are Airfix ocnversions

I have 8, but boxes chucked.

With the release of Hornby and Bachmann aircons I was expecting a flood of these on Ebay, but there isn't. Lots of FOs masquerading as TSOs Lots around £40. I have a repainted one on watch. So where are they all?

I have three Mainline of this chassis type, recently inspected but OK Mine when failed will get Comet chassis.

I just ended up recycling all my old ones as stock has been moving into Really Useful Boxes as sets. When ONE vehicle design has three different boxes they look messy. Airfix GMR Mainline

Usually a BSK

My 2D DBFs use FO roof and part sides and I cut off the brake bits from a BSO on the roof and filed and sanded to size. Managed all cuts with no filler, not even needed the file and fill square section. I worked out dimensions from pictures, and the plans in Mark 2 book. But one thing I have trouble finding are TSOs, plenty of BSO FO, but no TSOs, still one short for two sets, may have to 2xBSO one

Airfix minerals turned into TOPS era MXV and MCV, a couple now with Chivers 21T minerals as MDVs. So a short rake of worn out minerals to sit in a siding or get dragged by a 20, 25, or 31. Then all of my cement wagons all modelled after a visit to a now closed cement place near Gloucester. Tanks are all WIP, brake vans I need to fix a few and use them. These lead onto other brands such as Cooper Craft, Cambrian, Parkside, Ratio. Got a nice rake of tipplers (Parkside) as Westbury area based MSVs, will sit behind a Bath Road 47. Most wagons are slightly modified, Airfix minerals all gained brakes, lost top flaps. Lots of Parkside vans, mainly wide door VEV VWV types, a few tubes (STV), ONE plate (SPV) so far as quite a bit of work to modify the kit. Mine all mine, no one else has the same wagons (I hope). However a lot of them should sit in sidings as quite a few were heading for scrap.

Go here and look. https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brmineralhopper

Will be a bit messy to do 2D TSO from 2 BSO halves, I have done 2E TSO from Airfix BSOs But a few tips Measure a lot. Use finest blade possible. Filler is not good as can be soft or not sticky to the body shell If you have a gap use plastic card first, if rough join but no real gap file a groove and push a square section in then sand when set. Take your time. If you damage the sides be prepared to use Extreme etching window frames. I used them anyway so did not worry.

How many of us have a large quantity of Airfix wagons? The Airfix mineral wagon is invaluable and all but one of my MXV and MCV are Airfix based. All of my cements, all in late TOPS condition.

And you forgot to mention that the O2 had a lot of input from you so is a sort of Tony RTR

I like train sets where they are just train sets, for fun, nothing wrong, but you do tend to try to keep semi sensible, big ones on passenger, little ones on freight. Model railways I like as well, but where it is all out of box it is still really a train set. Just done better. You need some personallity and believability for a MR

can only read one comment as it won't show any others, how do you get it to display?