MJI

21 hours ago, The Johnster said:

 

Good point, Jason; Period I and II were built in large numbers, appeared on all LMS/LMS related main lines from Thurso to Bournemouth and those of the other three, and lasted in quantity until the late 50s.  No RTR pre-grouping coaches from the Midland, LNW, GNR, GER. GCR, NER, L&Y Caley, or NBR, and these were huge companies, the Midland and LNW especially (I don't count the generic 4- and 6-wheelers as serious models of anything).  Nothing at all from some fairly large pre-group concerns, even locos; LT&S, Cambrian, North Staffs, Furness, or the larger South Wales companies.  LNER provision of coaches concentrates on the ECML, there are none of those built for the GE section.

 

Non-gangwayed stock is thin on the ground in comparison to gangwayed stock as well, but an important part of the pre-dmu scene.  There are even gaps in GW gangwayed provision; Dapol are addressing the long-wishlisted toplights but there is no current standard model of any GW catering vehicle.  Perhaps this is because so many of them were refurbished after WW2 and would need extra tooling; same goes for the Centenary stock. 

The GWR Collet gangwayed gaps are huge.

No 70 footers, preserved, no excursion see DVR, no super saloons, no Sunshine BTK, no early 30s flat ended   see SVR GWR 150 BCK.

I have a Worsely works DMU but I think the windows are slightly deep.

Got a GRCW 119 though.

13 minutes ago, Mallard60022 said:

Lovely Ian. Worsley etches are really good quality...well the ones I've had have been.

Sometimes with Ends and a Floor/Part U.F. 

Your additional parts are superb here and cunning use of Comet Bogies.

Phil 

Brings back memories of KWVR visit in 1980s

11 hours ago, The Johnster said:

There was a standing instruction that, as far as possible, no two coaches coupled together were to be of the same design, and if this could not be avoided, they were to be of different liveries...  There are plenty of Collett designs, admittedly not all produced in large numbers, that are yet unmodelled in RTR form, though Comet's coverage is pretty good.

There is one i need, no model at all  late GWR BT as built in early 50s, got 2 Ts, but no BTs.

Will have to run as a mix but many pics of 3 together.

I am now even going comet route for mark 1s,  just not sure if whole vehicle, or reside a lima.

8 hours ago, Iain.d said:

 

Hi Martin,

 

I’m not sure if it’s the same family as the KWVR one. The type I’ve built were referred to as ‘Continentals’ as I think the vertical planking on the sides was similar to European vehicles of the time and they were used pretty much exclusively on the continental boat trains.

 

The description below is much easier to do than describe, I probably should have taken some photos but I didn’t think anyone would be interested!

 

To secure the roof to the carriage body, the body has three brass cross members added, each drilled with a hole to take a self-tapping M1.6x8mm screw.

 

The base of the roof is made from .75mm/30 thou plastic card that is cut exactly to length to sit between the ends and is wide enough so it sits on top of the sides. I cut 17 cross braces / ribs / joists (I’m not sure the right name) from .75mm plastic card and filed them to the shape of the end profile. I then attached the first three, one at each end and the one in the middle. The remaining 14 were then evenly spread between the two sides; there’s about 1.5cm between each upright. I tried to position them, taking into account where the roof vents would need to be. Then when that was all dry, I drilled a hole just off the centreline of the flat roof of what would become each compartment of the roof when the cover was on, to allow for glue vapour venting and expansion. I cut short lengths of 8mm diameter styrene rod and drilled them centrally, to accept the self-tappers, and then glued them over the holes where the screws would go.

 

I then cut individual lengths of 2mm styrene rod and filed them to fit between each apex of a pair of braces / ribs / joists. The purpose of this was to try and reduce the likelihood of the curved plastic cover sinking or settling between the ribs and causing ripples – which is what happened on the first roof I did. It also ensured the whole roof remained flat and made the frame hold its shape.

 

For the curved cover I used .25mm plastic card, cutting it oversize by 1mm prior to fitting (only so there’s less waste and less to tidy up at the end). I secured one side to the base side of the roof and let it dry, then over a few sessions rolled the base of the roof onto the cover a little at a time, against a piece of glass, securing it with liquid poly as I went. On my original roof I used liquid poly gel (Revell Contacta) which took a while to dry and I think stressed the cover to cause ripples. For this one I used Mig Ammo Night Blue cement so you can see where capillary action draws the liquid, it dries in seconds and I didn’t worry if the curved plastic card wasn’t secured to the rib along its whole length – only where the curved cover naturally bought them into contact. I used finger pressure while it dried rather than weights (books) so I was far more gentle. I secured the remaining side, let it dry and cut the excess off with a scalpel. I added rain strips and cantrails from .25mm x .5mm strip. So the roof overhangs each side by .5mm (.25mm for the cantrail and .25mm for the curved cover) which looks prototypical. Given the thinness of the curved roof I took care when drilling and fitting the vents.

 

Below are a couple of images as it is completed, you’ll note the brush painting under the cantrail is not that neat and you can see some blue dye from the cement and the overspray…..

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

Very useful.

Continental so it is.

http://www.cs.rhrp.org.uk/se/CarriageInfo.asp?Ref=490

I have ridden in it, many years ago on a s and c merrymaker

10 minutes ago, Steamport Southport said:

 

What, no clerestory? 😉

 

Seen plenty of those randomly placed in trains.

 

https://www.warwickshirerailways.com/gwr/gwrbsh2495.htm

 

 

Jason

Corridor stock, was disappointed no toplights, but pleased all in Comet range.

I am copying some real rakes and found in one set

GWR

An early Sunshine.

A late door to every compartment, same design as the SVR BCK which used to bemainline registered.

A 57ft bow end.

A 70ft.

2 hours ago, Iain.d said:

I thought I’d show where I am up to with a SECR 5 Compartment Brake First Saloon I’ve had on the go for a couple of months. The main components (sides, ends, floor) are Worsley Works etches, the bogies are Comet Models SR 8ft, the interior is made from plastic card and bits and pieces (seats and partition doors) left over from previously built kits. The roof is scratch built from plastic card. All the main parts have been painted with the body finished in an etch primer, ready for the Southern green top coat and transfers.

 

 

The roof is a second attempt; I wasn’t happy with the first one I did as it had too many ripples in its surface. This one is made in the same manner but I used thinner card for the curved part, more ribs to support it and was less generous with the liquid poly. This one isn’t perfect but it’s okay; depending on how it catches the light it does have a few gentle ripples but nothing worth writing home about.

 

 

With the interior, I’ve done quite basic painting as very little can be seen once the roof is fitted. I’m unsure exactly what the colours were so I have done it with a general southern feel, that said there probably aren’t too many people around who would know. The saloon area will need some casual chairs.

 

 

Given the ‘plainness’ of the etches, I’ve added handrails, lamp irons, electrical connectors, alarm gear, identification plates, vacuum and steam heat pipes and additional brake gear detail, both underneath and on the brake end. I’ll fold up some paper for the corridor connector at the non-brake end and then I think it has gone as far as I can take it.

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

Is that the same family as the brake third at KWVR?

And how do you make the roofs as it is effective and holding its shape?

OK I am planning on moving to ABS like resins Elegoo ABS 2.0 seems recommended.

What would be a good start point for exposures?

Using the basic Elegoo grey resin, the really brittle stuff.

Mars 2 Pro

Currently 0.05mm layers

2.5 second per layer

35 seconds base layer

I do know I need slightly slower lift speeds.

Should I try similar, or longer?

Thanks

Martin

Are there plans for MCV and MXV with no top flaps?

24 minutes ago, kevinlms said:

Just as annoying are those suppliers that you have purchased from, even a small cheap item. Yet they hound you to 'rate their service'. All they actually did, was pop an item in a small bag and stick a label on, yet they want you to spend more time answering their survey, than they did with your package.

Or rate before using, spent a lot on leather refinishing stuff, can't use as too cold and wet, get hounded to review.

I will review once i have done the first seat.

23 hours ago, Flying Pig said:

 

 

 

Was diagram 1/149 really built with rivetted bodies to the original design as late as 1958?  Building had generally gone over to the revised BR design with welded construction by then.  The underframe of the model represents the conventional type with push-rod brakes, whereas rivetted bodies mostly had the very characteristic LNER pattern with tall brake lever and clasp brakes derived from NER practice.  See Paul Bartlett's photos at

 

https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/br21thopperrivet

 

https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/br21thopperweld

 

To bang my usual drum, it is well past time for an accurate range of these wagons rtr in 00 and N (and TT now as well I suppose) as they are typically required in significant numbers.  The Airfix-originated model (as in the OP) doesn't represent a typical vehicle and also forms the basis for the Dapol N gauge version.  The  Hornby model represents the rivetted type quite well but seems to have vanished from the range. The available kits are not simple to build (especially in N) and dont represent all types.  I think there are some nice etched kits in 2mm scale though.

Parkside kits

13 hours ago, big jim said:

might be interested in the exhaust, we went to have a look at it tonight with a spare battery and got it running, Christ it’s loud from the manifold end so I suspect it’s blowing, hope it’s not the manifold! 
 

It’s not going to be a quick project, oil is filthy, there is plenty of coolant in it but will need a flush out I recon, change all the belts, new tyres, air filter, wipers and something I did notice last night which will be the most expensive is it needs a new windscreen as it’s got a crack along the bottom which will no doubt get longer in time, that can be the last job I recon 

 

Bodywork wise a good t-cut should bring it back to standard, the fuel flap is in the boot for refitting, tidy up the wiper arms with a fresh coat of paint as well as the top of the door jams 

 

electrics, it looks to be ok, all light work, even has a fully working thatcham 1 Toad alarm (that brings back 1990s memories!) the head unit in it is a combined CD/minidisc thing! 
 

it should be in my possession in the morning as the guy is dropping it off at the house on his car transporter van then it’s time to see exactly what I’ve let myself in for

 

I like minidisc. I do have an in car player i could not use in current onr.

I do like airliners with afterburners.

Been in a few 146s.

Been in a comet at 3 months old.

On 03/03/2024 at 15:54, rob D2 said:

It would seem the economics of Ejets doesn’t always work . Flybe got some awful lease terms and it was part of their issues … airlines suddenly get over excited about pure jets 

They used to have BAe 146

On 03/03/2024 at 18:59, Jeff Smith said:

You mean of course turbofans - pure jets, ie non- by-pass airliners were banned many years ago.....there's still a few very old military aircraft with them though!

How come they are banned?

Which ones matches Precision?

Interesting model

As to grain, pretty sure most arrived by barge until the 1990s, I remember seeing the barges, either moored at Healings, or running down the Severn.

One of the reasons Upper Lode lock is so big.

My parents used to have a boat moored on the Avon.

I would recommend the £12 a year option which helps pay for the site and removes ads.

I adblock but i prefer to help fund the site.

3 hours ago, Southernman46 said:

Was on the train the other day and sat close to two women conversing in what I knew to be Turkish and within minutes I was receiving ad pop-ups for items but actually in Turkish on my lap-top - can only have been due to my apparently non-active phone picking up their speech  - my goodness aren't THEY just listening all time now 😬

They do, this is the third recent case of this.

3 hours ago, Reorte said:

PC port of Horizon Forbidden West out now, and it sounds like a solid port of the console version for once. I'll find out eventually (day and a half to download it, and that's if I don't interrupt the download so I can use the connection for something else). I've managed to completely avoid spoilers so far...

I played it a while ago on PS4 and it is good.

One bit of advice, take time to explore, well worth it.

19 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Tomorrow should be fun........................

 

 

I've been asked to review/test this stunning new model by Hornby of the new-build P2; the one with real steam!

 

Naturally, it'll only function on DCC, and Little Bytham will never use that method of control; other than the few times when a DCC controller is wired in, every single relevant section of one of the four circuits is switched on and full DCC-functionality is enabled. Which will happen in the morning when a mate brings his peculiar box of tricks along.

 

Watch this space.............

 

 

Don't like those wheels in the air

4 hours ago, The Evil Bus Driver said:

I've just finished making up my 2D rake, with one (Mainline) exception it's all Airfix. It took ages to get the TSOs due to their relative rarity. 

I bought quite a few TSOs.

Plus 2e 2f from BSOs

Triang 2s though i gave the later ones to boys and older ones are being extreme etchings.

1 hour ago, andyman7 said:

Here you go - note the Triang model is a Mk2a, Accurascale a Mk2b. This is an original 1968 Triang Hornby R723 so is correctly modelled as a BFK and even has track powered interior lighting to boot. The B4 bogies were also a better rendition than the later 1977 push-fit replacements that Hornby turned to using. Note that this one has a factory error with the number applied being the one meant for the SO - they normally come with the number M14052.

 

The Accurascale one is unsurprisingly on a planet of its own but the Triang one isn't at all bad for its time - the biggest shortcoming is the extremely unflush glazing.

Proves my point, the much maligned Triang models even though a bit crude are accurate in dimensions.

I would say it proves errors on the Bachmann 2/2A

Now you can see why a full range needed.

44 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Good afternoon Martin,

 

Me, and not just my last lining job!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

My 2P is fine