cliff park

Not sure if you've seen the latest Min of Ag and Fish pronouncements, but all birds must be kept indoors because of bird fluii

What exactly 'doesn't work'

Early article photos were lost when this site crashed a month or two ago. They have to be reloaded by the original poster.

Just a note on your introductory chat about prevailing wind:- all windmills (and windpumps) generally have a means of rotating the sails (horizontally) to catch the wind, whatever its direction. Sometimes done by turning the cap, sometimes, as in a post mill, by turning the whole body.

There was an awful lot of other horse drawn machinery besides ploughs. Before the days of the combined harvester rollers, drills, reapers, threshers and binders were all separate machines. Lots of these were easily converted to be tractor drawn, but only for a few years before being abandoned. I remember in 1959 as a ten year old helping out on my cousin's farm at harvest time and they were using horse drawn carts, with us sitting on their backs, to help get all the corn back to the barns. The horses were really retired, but came in useful once a year

Can I just point out Kia give a seven year guarantee on their cars. We have a hybrid Niro and it includes the hybrid battery. Obviously not tyres or exhaust.

As noted by Matt C check out Isopon filler. Available in tubes from Halfords and designed for metal

You could of course put a bridge rectifier in the voltmeter circuit. Then it wouldn't matter which way round the supply was . But you would lose a volt or so across the diodes, just have to add a bit on to the readings.

Most road markings then, and there weren't many, were white paint of some sort, not the thick plastic stuff we have now. And it quickly faded.

If it was a water wheel, what did it power. There is no mill, or signs of such a large building, and it is out in the middle of nowhere. How did the grain get here, or the flour get taken away with no road?

I suspect rather than powering something this was a 'pump'. It lifted water from one level to another, we have loads of these in Norfolk, used to be driven by windpumps, more recently diesel engines.

Just out of interest what is the chip with the capacitor/resistor on top? I can't read it in any of the pics.

Be very careful about filing tips. The better ones are coated and once the coating is filed off they deteriorate very quickly. Check first if you can. For the same reason they should only be cleaned with a wet sponge. If they are just solid copper or similar then go ahead.

There are no pictures after June 2021. There are lots of gaps earlier, but I can't see a pattern as to which ones appear.

I'm sorry but some of these comments make no sense. A 4700µF is not the 'proper' size. It is what someone has worked out will give a good kick, and its size is calculated in conjunction with the resistors, rectifiers, transistors etc used in the circuit. Electronically there is absolutely no difference between one large capacitor, and two small ones of the same or similar capacitance. Note that electrolytics have a huge tolerance, often something like +40-20%, and even the best are usually ±20%, which swamps any minor differences in size.

Cored, not corded, solder does indeed have flux up the middle. It is virtually impossible to see , except in very large solder sizes, BUT if it smokes when heated it is almost certainly cored. The smoke is the flux burning off. This is why you should never apply the solder to the iron away from the workpiece, except for tinning the iron. Melting the solder away from the workpiece burns off all the flux long before it can do its job at the point of soldering. So, the sequence is:- tin the iron, heat the workpiece (this may well be component lead, wire, switch tag, PCB etc or any combination thereof) then with iron still in place apply solder to joint. All of this assumes electrical/component type work, soldering brass kits is a little different, but not much

If the solder is melting, the iron is hot enough. I agree with David regarding flux. But are you heating whatever it is you are trying to solder. The iron, workpiece and solder all need to be hot. In fact a good test, and the best way to work really, is to heat up the workpiece and apply the solder to the workpiece, not the iron. Just a thought:- is the solder cored?

I suspect the OP is referring to the polarity of the supply, rather than the capacitors. but isn't this fed with AC. The output does not matter, since the point motor coil will work regardless of polarity.

Just a small point, and I've posted this before:- it is possible to have a swing down flap. I personally found this much easier to make work. One possible disadvantage is that you have to walk past the scenery, but in N this won't stick out too much.

I forgot to mention work is well under way on a third river crossing at the south end of Southtown Road, landing very near where the old fish docks used to be. Also near the end of the long gone dockside railway sidings

It's very busy. Mostly involving various gas/oil rigs and associated vessels. I live in a village near Yarmouth and one of my neighbours works there. He was saying they have to have a booking system for berths they are so busy.

I used to use a steel rule for a cutting edge, and had trouble with the knife occasionally slipping across the ruler. Then I realised that a 'combination square', shown below, has a 2mm thick blade. This can be slid out to make a really good guide for a knife, particularly on thick card where more pressure may be required. Beware of parallax with the thicker edge. It can of course always be slid back in for its original purpose. They are available for less than £5 from Toolstation if you don't have one. (Sorry the pic is out of focus)

As I said not small, but it uses your wi-fi to connect, so no connection necessary

Probably not hepful if you are looking for something small, but this post can turn an old phone into a camera, eg for security purposes.