njee20

The flipside there is how many thousands of vessels successfully navigate under bridges without hitting them? What's the limit? No barges under Tower Bridge without tug escort? The video of the collapse and the daylight footage is harrowing, we can only hope the casualty list remains short.

Rugby: https://maps.app.goo.gl/AoX5LcvbVFih2MTo7 The new building is off to the left, but the old station building is the red brick one atop the platforms that can just be seen. Sure there are plenty of other examples.

Of course. But you’re paying for their time. It’s probably more like 25% of the cost! You’ve got the Medium in your list though? It’s the only Unifrog one they do. I’d ask a few dealers if you’re going to be buying that all in one go, see if they’ll do a price. Wouldn’t just go to KMS. Another +1 for waiting until the shed is built before dropping £1000 on points.

Hopefully most of them understand how tax brackets work. You don’t suddenly ratchet into a new tax bracket, you only ever pay tax on the bit over the threshold. Worst place to be is £100k-£123k, where the marginal rate of taxation is 60% (ie for every pound you earn you lose 60% of it). However that doesn’t mean you don’t still take home more on £101k than on £99k. I’ll have a go driving a Pendolino for £600 a day, tax brackets be damned!

I’ve used servos in the past, but would recommend MTB MP1s now. That’s another major expense though. I’m not sure I understand the list, it seems to be repeating? You say point types might need to change for DCC, but there’s nothing “DCC” about Peco points, they’ll all work fine. I’d urge you to use the large points wherever possible, you’ve got bags of space and you’ll be rewarded with better running.

What do you think "customer service" means in this context? Delivering the item regardless to meet a completely arbitrary timeline specified with the best of intentions years in advance? Or... delivering the best product they can in the timeline they can accomplish? We certainly have different definitions of customer service given yours appears to be the former. The reason a redesign was required was because new people joined the organisation who no doubt had to lobby for the improvements. I'll add my name to the list who applaud Dapol for going back to the drawing board (literally) on the 66. I'd rather have the best product; I've every faith that Adam (and Steve, who I didn't even know was a part of Dapol!) will have done good things to the model, and we as consumers will benefit from that. I can wait an indefinite time for my toy trains, but thanks for announcing that you're disatisfied, I will carry that information with me.

This was in Australia as well, right…? Probably not showing up at car boots over here!

He can email/pm/attach the file if he’s happy to do so, they all just save locally.

Hopefully not. The font on the R looks a bit wrong.

It's a shame that pointwork in T is pretty poor, the scope for creating tiny versions of large stations would be incredible!

And possibly the least graffitied JHA left, few seem to retain much of the blue stripe!

Ah yes, missed that, my bad!

Except the top right corner, which is 6’ from the operating well. I think if you distill this to its basic component parts it’s got a lot going for it. - four track main line - flying junction for diverging route - large depot area I agree with the previous posters that starting with the basic ovals and making sure they form logical circuits is a good starting point. I’m not wholly familiar with Bounds Green, but the track plan to me has a Nuneaton feel (which I like!). Personally I would have four tracks running around, the slow line over the top being a diverging route entirely (you can decide where/if you join it back in, but I’d make it a secondary route, not have it become the main). You have lost the fiddle yard, is this just schematic and there still a helix somewhere with a second level? I’d still be tempted to borrow some space and keep it all on the one level. personally I’d remove the sidings between the lines on the bottom side, they don’t add much for me and feel a bit forced.

Given the build plate squashes virtually all of the resin out of the way i can’t believe bubbles are a factor. They will definitely all get popped.

Super easy thing to learn design on. Ok marginally harder to make the lattice work, but to all intents and purposes they’re cuboids of differing heights. Design one. Scale in the Z-axis to get the height right. Quicker than searching Thingiverse!

It depends, but usually Sunlu ABS-Like or Siraya Fast. For bogies I mix in some Siraya Tenacious. I tend not to use that for bodies, because you get slightly 'softer' definition, so it's a balance for two axle wagons. The ladders need tidying up on this under cruel magnification of the camera, but this was Sunlu ABS-Like, and uses metal axles, either Intermountain or Exact Rail.

Just try and move the axle boxes out/thin them slightly. I find my printed wagons roll well. They are very sensitive; 0.5mm can be the difference between binding axles and dropping out! I found trying to accommodate top hats in N was more disruptive. YMMV.

Clean your model more thoroughly, then let it dry prior to curing. You shouldn’t need anything like 25 minutes (or even 10) to cure. 4-5 minutes is likely plenty. Shaking the resin may be a factor, did you warm it? That’s more likely to be a cause IMO. Don’t need to do anything special. Put the bottle in hot water, use a heat gun on the vat (my preferred method), all sorts of options.

But you asked about knowing when to ‘cut’ a layout. As if you design the layout and then try and fit it to the space. The answer is that you don’t. You design specifically for the space you have available. I personally don’t like either of those designs as much as the previous one (practical access and geometry constraints notwithstanding).

I think copying someone’s layout could be seen to be a bit odd. If you decided that you really liked someone’s layout and wanted to slavishly recreate it then I think I’d ask them. No obligation to, but it would just be a bit rude not to. But then it would be a curious thing to do… Otherwise there are, of course, no restrictions on building similar models.

Nah, 442 would be more useful! 😁

I was underwhelmed by the Gaugemaster ones, I had one fail in short order. The Digitrax AR-1s were poor one, one never worked, another failed soon after. The Block Signalling ones are good, and are solid state. None of them had issues with sound fitted models.

It’s relevant that you’re modelling in N, where the flangeways (proportionally) are much wider than in OO, and therefore the risk of the backside of a wheel shorting on the open blade is tiny. IMO you’re much more likely to damage the point by cutting and bonding the stock/closure rails than deriving any benefits. Lay them as they are. Powering the frog is good practice to avoid reliance on blade contact for continuity.

No good for any ready to lay track, set track or otherwise! Great software though.

Crack on. Give them a really good shake as they may have separated a bit.