Jump to content
 

Rowsley17D

RMweb Gold
  • Posts

    4,893
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Rowsley17D

  1. 53 minutes ago, Tortuga said:

    I might just look to get hold of some of that myself. Daft question, where would I find it?

     

    Major diy stores should sell it along with superglue. B&Q usually stock it. I've had some years bought at York show along with Powerbond superglue.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  2. 30 minutes ago, Graham T said:

    I might give it a go...  It will bother me otherwise!  Silly mistake to make, down to rushing for the finish line when I should have been looking for reference photos.

     

     

    Have you got or can get hold of de-bonder? It'll soften the superglue and all should be easier to part from each other.

    • Agree 1
    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  3. 1 hour ago, Graham T said:

     

    It's the same with the 4F of course, although the brakes are more visibile from behind the loco.  I considered trying to cut away the NEM socket, but that fell into the "too difficult" category and so, in the finest traditions of Chuffnell Regis, I bodged it instead.

     

    IMG_3324.jpg.352033dbcd4789502041b832160eac09.jpg

     

    I threaded brass wire through the lower end of the brake hangers this time, and then tried fitting this to the bottom of the NEM pocket.  A bit of plasticard packing was needed to get the hangers at the right level vertically.  I'm hoping that this bodge won't be quite so obvious once it's had some black paint ladled on!  I then added brass rod along the length of the tender on each side to represent the pull rods (I think that's what they are anyway...)

     

    So, I know it's all there, but you can't see much of it once the loco is back on the rails 😀

     

    IMG_3330.jpg.7c2d782eb1ec00cac5a331416f2589b7.jpg

     

    Good solution, I might have a go at that myself.

    • Thanks 1
  4. With the rear brake hangers only the bottom of the hanger would be visible so that's why I didn't bother trying to fit any. For me it was the guard irons that got in the way. I did contemplate gluing the lower part of the hangers to the back of the rear steps but it would mean they were too far out of line with the wheels.

    • Like 1
  5. 1 hour ago, Darius43 said:


    I see no sign of a Tenshodo despite the seller’s description.  Looks like the original Hornby bogies and wheel sets to me.

     

    Sale now pulled by the seller.

    • Like 3
    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  6. 4 hours ago, Paul H Vigor said:

    Hey, there's a whole section of eBay didicated to collectors of the vintage school milk bottles!

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l2632&_nkw=school+milk+bottle&_sacat=29797

     

    We must have been posh at my primary school as our milk was served in glasses. They didn't hold 1/3 pint and the excess was used to make custard. The milk came to school in a small churn straight from the farm, TT tested. So that's why few of us needed the BCG jab at secondary school (which did have 1/3 pt bottles.)

    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 2
  7. 31 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:


    I have no idea about that, I’m not clever enough to know such things

     

    I do have a photo somewhere from the other side of the bridge that shows the signal is in clear line of sight (you have to imagine the track is straight)

     

    I'd forgotten about those photos you took a while back.

    • Agree 1
  8. 21 minutes ago, Graham T said:

     

    As you've probably realised, my knowledge of railways is minimal, but are these two anywhere near to meeting the requirements?  

     

    IMG20221108212109.jpg.5b28e0c75be512d12a3f8dcad5361087.jpg.e8244fa963a96e258829f6e51dde4a86.jpg

     

    IMG20221203203806.jpeg.9df6b9cd980c564df480437944ae639b.jpeg.03e72fc4dc0150c8b4dfc83baf54fd3c.jpeg

     

     

     

    You're getting there, Graham. We'll have you over to the (black) dark side yet.

    • Like 2
    • Agree 1
  9. 1 hour ago, Tortuga said:

    Interesting, though that would make sense as most of the photos of Gannets I’ve seen (from the group and from Jay) on the line are at locations between Parsley Hay and Middleton Top.

     

    I’ve not seen a photo of Mermaids on the Ashbourne line itself, but I think there’s a photo of some at Hillhead in one of the Foxline books. The only photo I’ve seen of ballast working on the Ashbourne line is this one from the W J Sutherland collection:

     

    http://sutherland.davenportstation.org.uk/aaprint/man.html#ash-62-10

     

    which shows a train mainly of Catfish, at least three Trout and possibly one Gannet plus two ballast brakes passing through Parsley Hay en-route to Macclesfield in 1962.
     

     

    I think this is the link you meant.

     

    http://www.sutherland.davenportstation.org.uk/aaprint/ash.html

     

    Photo about 1/2 way down the page.

  10. 3 hours ago, Graham T said:

    That is useful, thanks.  Everything is anchored to the white block, correct?

     

    I've bookmarked this post, so now I only have to remember to look at my bookmarks!

     

     

    That's right. The white block is a piece of Plastistrut square section tube. I threaded the brake hangers on 0.7mm wire set at the width of the tyres. They were stuck with superglue gel. The pull rods should be 0.45mm wire but I found some of the holes in the hangers too big. The square section tube was welded to the underside of the tender and when all had set, the brakes were leant against the wheels and the pivot wire (although it doesn't pivot of course) glued to the Plastistrut. Just before the glue went off I made sure the wheels would turn freely.

    • Like 1
    • Informative/Useful 1
    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  11. 59 minutes ago, Graham T said:

    Great, thank you!  I need to tot up how many I need and then place an order.

     

     

    If it's any help, this is how I fitted them. As you can see I didn't bother with the rear pair as the guard irons got in the way and they would be hidden by the rear steps anyway.

    DSC00631.JPG.c5fae5566ade68de2b456377d457d32b.JPG

     

    DSC00632.JPG.1da066332e79715215c01b2c1a27173b.JPG

     

    • Like 4
    • Informative/Useful 1
  12. Front lamp irons have been added. A bit over-scale though.

    DSC00629.JPG.bcc00665a86f30475e49b8b515794a09.JPG

     

    Brakes and sandboxes and pipes added too. A right fiddly job.

    DSC00627.JPG.ac574bc47b9c368c0c6e1c39a3d0e13a.JPG

     

    DSC00628.JPG.38b4539c4b05d6a1c994dfcda2cc9ed6.JPGand to the tender.

     

    Coming together nicely.

    DSC00630.JPG.eb1fa4653a6a5774637b416ca1c08c99.JPG

    • Like 17
    • Craftsmanship/clever 2
  13. 1 hour ago, Graham T said:

    Various mixes of light brown, black, and rust applied to the bottom and front faces of the cylinders.  Also some slightly toned down rust on the rods from the cylinder fronts - no idea what they're called I'm afraid!

     

    IMG_3162.jpeg.824784f6436d1875470ae4f6d7084c86.jpeg

     

     

    Slide bars is what you're looking for.

    • Informative/Useful 1
  14. A bit more done to the 2P. The kit came without con rods so the Hornby ones have been used. I also found some axle end covers in my spares box and there are balance weights on the etch too. Wires have been soldered to the pick-ups and motor.

    DSC00624.JPG.d26130b55187ffb17e25e21411e43c72.JPG

     

    The back-head has had some paint.

    DSC00625.JPG.c396cd907b8b9890e0026d7844f9872e.JPG

     

    The tender has had the DCC gubbins arranged. I added a "floor" to the tender chassis and then glued on an old coach weight.

    DSC00626.JPG.93a754ab030621a199497457b13cdca3.JPG

     

    There's still plenty to do before I join up the wires: brakes, front lamp irons, real coal, crew and weathering to name but a few.

    • Like 13
  15. 16 hours ago, Barry O said:

    Strange that.. never had similar symptoms on any of the DCC fitted items (apart from a RTR Derby Type 2.. I changed the chip(!)

     

    Baz

     

     

    I found that DCC Concepts boards which join the decoder to the capacitors do get warm to the touch. Most engines so fitted are metal so the heat dissipates okay.

    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  16. Change of plan. I got the loco put together with motor in place and DCC Concepts gubbins in the smokebox. It ran well on the rollers but the board that joins the decoder to the stay-alive got very warm and nicely heated up the smokebox to the touch. A bit too much realism. All is now going into the tender where there's plenty of room for air to circulate.

    • Friendly/supportive 2
  17. Back to the 2P. The High Level Kits' HiFlier arrived and I found it fits motor forward into the smokebox which means I can get some serious weight above the drivers and avoid the nose-heavy problem 4-4-0s usually have.

    • Like 4
×
×
  • Create New...