Rowsley17D

43 minutes ago, Tricky said:

A couple of arty shots from a little diorama I’ve been working on. 

 

Photos of the real thing are not allowed! That woodwork weathering is stunning.

Bit out of gauge for my layout.

Looks like I'll have to paint the tops of my point lever handles black.

4 hours ago, Sjcm said:

Another listing that falls into the "what am I missing?" catagory. Not sure why the remains of a Hornby Dublo tender and some princess plunger pick-ups has been bid up past 50 pounds considering you could get both complete loco's for that much. I'm speaking as someone who has a dismantled Dublo castle tender ready to go if this is a new strain of madness😉

 

Buh?!

 

 

I'd start listing if I was you.

36 minutes ago, Tortuga said:

Is that from the red box stable or the blue box stable Graham? Just thinking that you can’t tell unless you see one from each manufacturer standing side by side - I’m sure someone will tell me all the differences between them now!

Well, you mention it. Hornby's 4F is the LMS version lefthand drive while Bachy's is the Midland Railway's righthand drive. Just look at which side of the boiler all the plumbing is on.

11 hours ago, lezz01 said:

Thanks Jonathan!

I wonder if I can make them move with the switchblades.

Regards Lez.

Good luck with trying that, Lez. I had all on to make the things let alone making them move.

Is this any use, Chris?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124871526517?

1 hour ago, lezz01 said:

They look great Jonathan. Where did you get them please I need some for Tewkesbury.

Regards Lez.

They are from Roxey Mouldings, Lez.

https://www.roxeymouldings.co.uk/category/87/4mm-scale-00-gauge-southwark-bridge-models-accessories/

You get 4 in a packet. There's a couple of spare lever handles too. The instructions say to use 0.3mm wire for bolts in the base and to fix the handle but I used glue and didn't bother with the bolts. Besides I have no 0.3mm brass wire nor a 0.3mm drill bit (all broken!)

A couple of weeks ago I got some etches of Williams' point levers to replace the white metal ones I had broken off in the shed area. They are very small parts.

The handle is the wrong way round which was later corrected.

First the baseplate is folded.

Then the gusset plate is inserted from below.

The handle bracket is folded and inserted from below too. All is held together with gel cyano.

The lever was glued in place then painted.

4 hours ago, hayfield said:

 

 

What do you plan to do with the wheels ? 3 of them look to be un-insulated

There appears to be 3 because I keep swapping them around. There's only 2 uninsulated drivers and 2 insulated ones. I don't usually like live chassis though but as the loco is mainly plastic I hope there won't be any bother.

@MrWolf I have a 4F kit in the wings but it needs a chassis. It was going too cheap on the Bay and I couldn't resist. Strangely, it came with a set each of metal and plastic tender wheels.

The front part of the frames from the w/m kit were glued to the underside of the footplate to reduce the daylight over the bogie. The tender from the Hornby 2P has had the motor removed and fortunately there were part holes where pinpoint axles could be inserted. These were enlarged using a DCC Concepts bearing reamer and new wheels inserted.

I must finished painting the rail sides. Nothing much will happen now until I take delivery of a Hiflier gearbox from High Level Models. The gearboxes I have in stock were not high enough for the motor to clear the driving wheels.

1 in 4 is a heck of a gradient for any model steam loco to climb.

51 minutes ago, Graham T said:

I found that the soldered connections to the bogie pick-ups on mine were very poor - they parted when I was fitting the false front frames (and were a fiddle to reconnect) - so you might want to have a look at those Jonathan.

 

I've had experience with the 2P bogie wires with LMS 693 and yes, one wire came off when I was dismantling 644. There's a fair bit of metal to solder to on the bogie though.

Recently I bought a cheap incomplete 2P w/m kit by Millholme "Goldcast" Models. I also got an Hornby tender-driven 2P from the Bay. Missing pieces were from the body of the loco, so I decided to make a hybrid model: Hornby body, kit chassis. The kit came with all the wheels so that saved a bit of money but the Hornby bogie will be used as it has pick-ups. The tender drive unit will go on Classifieds. The w/m tender was complete except for brake and water scoop standards but I may adapt the Hornby tender as the w/m tender is very heavy for a mainly plastic engine to pull.

1 hour ago, Graham T said:

 

Thanks Jonathan.  I'm guessing this is perhaps wrong then?

 

 

Do I also need red lining on the splashers, tender and cab sides?  Also (sorry about all the questions), would this loco have had red-shaded gold lettering?  As per this sheet from HMRS.

 

Apart from those issues, the loco still needs some real coal, a crew, and the smokebox and roof painted with my favourite black/brown mix.

 

 

This is where the red lining should be on the loco. This is my Hornby/white metal hybrid I am making. A cheap Hornby tender-driven loco off the Bay and an incomplete WM kit, but it did have all the wheels.

Sorry I forgot about the front splashers. They are lined too.

On lined black engines there was single red band at the smokebox end of the boiler on the cab/firebox join.

I picked the wrong lever, Graham.

It's the reversing lever, Graham

Going over to the dark/black side again, Graham?

Shed Master's nightmare- locos all over the place.