MarshLane

I am treating my initial baseboards as something of an 'out of the box' project and a trail. As I am looking to store the boards in storage boxes to keep the dust off them, I am going to look at adding the 'end keeper plates' by magnets when its not in use - that way its an easy on, easy off idea. We'll see whether it works or not! Richie

Hi Keith, Interesting questions, and no problem with posting them here! It makes sense to keep such things together, in the hope that others will find it useful in the future. Thanks for your kind comments on my Rock Creek layout - at the time I started, the American section didn't look particularly well used, so went for the Layout Topics! Once the first bit of scenery is down, I'll do an 'action' thread on the US section! The only comment I would make, given the experience with the initial boards on Rock Creek is that you need to be very careful that the track coming to the edge of the board is well secured. On one of the 'off scene' boards, I managed to catch one rail when disassembling it once and purely by accident ripped it out of eight or nine sleepers. The entire piece of track had to be replaced. The situation may have been different if it had been ballasted of course, but it was one of the reasons that made me look at other options for the new boards - hence this thread. The model tech options do look good, but won't help with your curve line of course - id strongly suggest looking at the copper clad sleeper approach and soldering the rail to it just to give it more strength. Richie

Wonderful Simon, Always enjoy your updates, keep the coming! if I can achieve half as much realism as you have here I’ll be happy! Have you noticed there are a couple of Farish 90s (one in Intercity and one in Virgin) and an 87 on eBay the moment? Just mentioning in case you fancied another repaint!! I’d bid myself if I wasn’t trying to stay focused on building the American layout! Rich

Evening all, Well I did say I would try and post some drawings over the weekend, but having managed to get a free evening, I have pushed on a bit. As mentioned previously, these baseboards are laser-cut and I am following a new (for me) way of doing these. These will not be the cheapest baseboards going, I acknowledge that, both in time and money, but with my back issues, I am hoping they will be lightweight and easy to handle. Currently the first board is designed, and the exported screenshots from the CAD software show the first board, with the track base for the second board added on. Because the trackwork is on a 2.8% grade in and out of the hidden sidings, it has been drawn for the full 180 degree turn - which is 7.5 feet in diameter, and this is then cut into smaller pieces for each board. Hence, why the base is showing for board 2. The bottom track, passing through the rectangles in the cross members will be hidden by scenery on this part of the curve, but still accessible from behind if needs be. Around 2/3rds into the curve, the position changes and the bottom track (at that point climbing on to the layout) comes into the scenic area, while the top two dissappear off scene to the hidden sidings and are hidden from view. The second two, show the scenic divider between the two top tracks - the line at the front in this view, runs up the front through a country/town scene, while the one at the back runs up the back through the yard, before they both meet at the far end of the layout. End view Rear View The eventual full layout forms a balloon loop on the top level, and a dog-bone on the bottom level where the hidden sidings are. Still plenty to do - the carpenters dowel holes have to be added, magnet spacing, electric pass through etc, and some bits left to sort out with the woodwork, but I am progressing. The current plan is to get the first three boards designed, then send the various drawings for laser cutting, to see how they work and perform. My hope is that the reasonable grade, easy curves and multiple locos on the front/middle/rear will mean that I can easily portray the American style of long trains, especially given the layout size in N gauge! Richie

Chaps, Thanks for all the comments and feedback. @Izzy that could well be a useful tip, especially for the hidden sidings. I think my initial way forward will be to try the ModelTech boards, which will also help with track alignment - not that it should be needed once laid and ballasted - but every little helps as a well known supermarket says! Then it will just be a case of adjustment in height between those and the code 40 rail to avoid any 'humps' at the baseboard joints. I like @Robert Stokes idea of the cardboard too - I was told thin steel washers, but its the same principal! My layout thread is in my signature, if anyone wants to follow along - please dont let the fact that I am modelling the American railroads put you off Its all standard modelling and scenics ... at least until the trains start running! Richie

Thanks for those images Phil (and @Harlequin), that really helps. I have a Dremel so forming the sleeper spacing shouldn't be too difficult in that sense, given the way your club did it. Certainly worth a test. I like the idea of a double sleeper, but on the scenic bits it would need to have sleeper gaps put in to make it look right. Ah! I am pleased you mentioned that, as Id missed it, and thought that the price for one! Doh, never read something quickly at work is today's lesson! Thank you Rich

As its you Jeff, I'll happily forgive you ... added to the fact I am tea-total so wouldn't have been swigging pints ... now if you'd said Appletizer Rich

I'll try and post some drawings over the weekend, but I am finally back underway with the layout. The new laser-cut baseboards are well underway in design - I am using an open plan approach with only the trackbed having a solid base. A new departure from the way I have done things previously, but hopefully they will lock together easier than the previous boards and be a lot lighter! The boards are being designed in stages, although the track plan is just about there for the whole layout. First up is the east end 180 degree curve, which will also handle the transition between layers for trains arrive into and departing from the hidden sidings under the layout. Normally I would have chosen an easier option to start with, but felt that going with perhaps the most difficult bit was the best way of proving that the ideas work! There has been a discussion underway on another part of the forum about securing the track at baseboard ends, specifically for when the boards are split and disassembled. This can be found here if anyone wants to take a look!

Enjoyable videos as ever Andy - really is starting to look good ... although saying that suggests it wasn't to start with and its was!

Thanks chaps, Cheers Phil, that matches with my initial thoughts on the best way forward. Do you split or handle your layout boards often? Have you encountered any problems or issues at all? Thanks Gilbert. While not insurmountable, my only concern is that the Modeltech board has to hang over the edge of the board, which creates a 'pull' point where damage could occur. The idea of end protection boards does get round it, but as Jeff commented, needs to be taken into account. My other 'issue' is purely the cost, they seem to be around £10 each, which for my smaller boards to keep the weight down, would get expensive. Thanks Jeff, yes valid point. Thanks

Morning guys, Thanks for the initial responses. Hmm, not come across those at all, but it looks interesting. I didn't realise that you could get anything like that - the interlocking between the two pieces could also be very useful, as a double check on alignment. Thanks @ITG (sorry dont know your name!) David, thanks for those links, I'd heard reference to FREMO before, but to be honest, always thought it was some club in the States!! The FREMO-americaN site has some interesting thoughts, I assumed the track had to be flush with the end of the board, but insetting it by 0.1mm would remove some of the damage hot spots. Overnight I have also thought of having a separate end covering plate cut, which could use the magnets to be attached to the mainboard when not in use. But the documents on those two sites are really useful, thanks for pointing that out. I had seen something elsewhere about using paxolin board, but each reference I saw to it seemed to suggest it needed 'milling'. Do you happen to know how your club cut their board? I like the idea, as it does not detract from the scenic aspects, but would definitely give a far superior and stronger joint at the board ends. A photo of what you have done would be welcome if you get chance, thanks Philip. Rich

Morning Jeff, My rmWeb time is diminishing at the moment one way or another! However, your making superb progress, I just hope your going to be able to enjoy it when its all done and you can (dare I say it) run trains I know how much enjoyment you get from the building side of things. The first shot from last night's update especially looks brilliant. Always enjoy catching up on what your doing - you couldn't arrange for another few hours in each day, could you ... that way I could catch up more often!! Take care Rich

Evening all, I am seeking the advice from the great and the good on here, with regards to how to handle the rail break at baseboard joints on a portable layout. I am slowly recommencing work on my N gauge American Railway, and I’m starting with totally new baseboards that will be laser cut from 6mm birch ply. The intention is that the end of each board will have carpenters dowels to handle the alignment, along with reasonably powerful rare earth magnets to help with holding them together. So I am reasonably confident that the baseboards alignment will be accurate every time. The track work will be handbuilt Code 40 rail are using copper clad sleepers. My question therefore is what do people consider is the best way to secure the rails at the end of the board to avoid damage and misalignment. I am taking care to ensure where is the possible that the baseboard ends are at 90° to the track. My initial thought is that potentially some form of soldering to a copper clad block for the last 3/4 of an inch of the board is perhaps the best way forward but I then encounter issues as to how to disguise this on the scenic sections. What are the layout is not intended, at this point in time, for exhibition use, it is a Portable Layout as it will have to be erected at the start of running sessions, and split down and stored after use. Therefore I am keen to protect the ends of the board primarily from the track work perspective but also scenic, when it is being put back into it storage box or manhandled. Any help and advice would be much appreciated, especially from those who have experience of exhibition layouts as to what does and does not work. For reference, electrical continuity will be handled beneath the boards so there is no requirement for fishplates et cetera on the track. They do say a picture tells 1000 words, so if anyone has the ability to show an image of how they have successfully achieve this in the past it would be much appreciated. As ever guys I appreciate any help that can be given! Richie.

I have used ballast from C&L mixed with some 'ash' before, that worked quite nicely, but like all things I suppose its personal preference!

Thanks as ever, those come out a bit on the expensive side however, especially in regards to the Kato ones (slightly different wagons I appreciate).

Making really good progress Andy, my visits have been a bit sporadic due to work, but Bute Road is coming on well. I half expected to find it finished, but no you can still see a baseboard - although it seems to have shifted significantly ... must have been one hell of an earth quake to move you from Cornwall to the South Coast Good decision tho for what you want I think... Well done on the recent modelling appearances in the press... Rich

Hi Scott, Thanks for your thoughts and input, all much appreciated. The idea of throwing the chassis away was not so much a 'that is what I intend to do', more a case of it being the first thing of this kind that I have done, so expected to make mistakes and learn from it. I know what you mean about getting annoyed if time has been spent for no outcome. I was perhaps speaking too honestly in that I had a bit of an expectation to 'c*ock it up' first time around! You may be right about pick-ups, I do have a habit of over thinking things so maybe just creating the whole chassis out of metal and using plunger or sprung pick-ups would be the way forward. I remember question in a school test being something like "what is the easiest way to get to the bus station?" one friend put 'walk there', and other said 'get my dad to take me' .. me being me said "walking could take too long and if you took the car you have to find somewhere to park, so get the 312 bus to Watkinson Terrace and change onto the 303 into the bus station"!!! I recall my teacher saying I had massively over thought the question but well done on knowing the bus routes! I remember commenting if it had been trains I could have told her the times too!!!! I was going to try and ring Branchlines today and enquire about their split axles, but ran out of time - one for tomorrow! Richie

Apologies Jim, I assumed it was a joint project! Lovely kit to build, and full marks to David Provan for the under frame design. Richie

Still progressing with the wagons .... first there was one, then two and now three! Paul, the S Scale Sales Officer, has had a chat with David Provan and Jim Guthrie who designed the etch, who confirmed there was a problem and had re-designed the etch some time ago. It looks like the ones I have are those that were produced before the redesign, so I have acquired some sets of the white metal cast brake shoes to complete these. Still detailing bits to go on and working through thoughts on how to paint / decal them, but its progressing! Please excuse the mess in the background of the image! Overall, I am quite pleased. They are the first proper kits I have put together with any form of brass content and soldering, and are remarkably free running. Spin the wheels on them and it cannot be far off perpetual motion, they keep spinning for so long! Now working on an initial etch design for a powered chassis - again having never done anything like this, the first will be a proving ground, VERY basic etch frames, two or three pairs of wheels, High Level Kits gearbox and motor, and prove I can do it and that it works and operates ok. Then strip it down, reuse the various parts with new frames to actually build an engine. All good fun Richie

Hi Jeff, Trying to do a little bit of modelling myself (not getting very far!) and work/family life has been getting in the way just lately. If we could gain another four or six hours in a day, I'd be fine!! Always a pleasure to look in and see the progress you are making tho, it keeps spurring me on! Rich

No problem, your welcome. No problem with doing things that way at all - just remember that the IRDASCs depend on other signals for their aspect. So if you have just one single four aspect in that direction, there are no other signals to tell it what to do, so the MAS Sequencer would be the best bet if that is the case. If there are other signals, then yes the IRDASCs are fine, and the MAS can control the signal aspect of the last signal the train passes, the others will then respond to what that does. Richie

Hi Jeff, Just catching up, wonderful as ever! Love the work you have done on the signal box and the stone walling, really is getting that S&C feel now! Rich

Hmm, thats a fascinating thought actually - another example of me trying to over complicate things!! That could make things easier, and mean that 2mm external diameter tube could be used, so that the HLK gear will go directly on to it. Richie

Did think about it, but I have run split axle designed locos in 2FS and the electrical pick-up was so much better. Plus if your learning, why not learn (what I seem to be) the right way to start with?! Looking to get free and smooth running and good pickups so to my mind, split chassis is the way to go. But thanks for the thought.

On the real real railway, yes you are right. This comes back down to the exactly like the prototype, and 'good enough'. To get the exact operation requires additional work, some form of track circuiting (detection, reed switches or more infra-red) and more boards. The OP said: So I was working on the principal of keeping it simple and trying to achieved what he wanted in a 'good enough' setting.