billbedford

The valve chest was under the cylinders, hence the odd, sloping bottom to the cylinder block. 

 

There was only one piston rod in each cylinder, but because the front axle was in line with the centre of the cylinder there was a yoke to take the drive past the axle. This yoke's top and bottom elements were round bars which must have worked in some sort of bearing, though this part is not clear on the drawing. This whole arrangement was a substitute for conventional slide bars. 

Looking at those wagons I'm reminded of the brake wagon used by the NBR on Cowlairs Bank while it was rope worked. I suspect that the Caly versions were used in similar situations. 

OK, various shades of grey, and many shades of rust...

Quote

 The S&D appear to have painted the iron work on their wagons in black,

 

But neither of your prototype photos show evidence of this. The van is in standard Derby grey livery with grey ironwork. While the open wagon looks as if it has been taken from straight from traffic and had its livery 'enhanced' for photographic purposes.

 

Note:

• there are chalk marks on the wagon planks,
• only the two headstock washer plates are dark, all the rest of the solebar ironwork is a similar colour to the timber solebar, 
• some of the nuts on the solebar have been picked out with a white background
• the brake lever and axlebox fronts, which are black in every UK wagon livery, are paler than the body ironwork
• there is a dark patch on the end planks just above the lefthand corner plate, where it looks as if someones paintbrush slipped which he was applying the blackening to the corner plate. 

 

I think you will find that horse shunting was always done from the six foot i.e. the horse was not expected to walk over sleepers. There was a loop or cleat on the solebar of most wagons were the towing line was attached.

In thirty years or so that piece of land will be covered with trees. In 60 or 70 people will not believe it was ever open space. This, of course, unless something else intervenes such as it being used for grazing or there is a prolonged drought.

This land looks like proto-forest to me.

The Ivatt 2-6-2 tanks had one pony with spring side control and one with swing links. It didn't seem to matter which was leading, but having two ponies with the same suspension could lead to unstable running.

On the original, the 'dips' in the lower horizontal frame was produced by chamfering the edge of the timber between the bolt heads. All the uprights and diagonals were also chamfered for most of their length.

Why have you put the splashers on inside out?

Wouldn

1/ Whisky has no 'e' (except in Ireland)

2/ Whisky barrels were used for ageing the spirits and transporting the from the distilleries to bottling plant and/or blenders. Boxes were used for distributing spirits to retail customers, so it would be very unlikely that both whisky barrels and boxes would be seen in the same place and time.

3/ When transported by rail, consignments of spirits were carried in bonded, i.e. lock and sealed by customs, vans.

4/ The chances of boxes of whisky reaching their final destination while being transported on a open lorry, as you have shown, I suggest would be low to zero.

You can alway tell 7mm models -- there're the ones with bright brass rings around the axles.......

Halfords also sell acrylics

The LNWR carriages transferred to the M&GNJ were

 

21 Corridor Thirds  LNWR D.268 

9 Corridor Brake thirds LNWR D.316

5 Corridor Brake Composites LNWR D.216

11 Corridor Composites LNWR D.138

3 Corridor Composites LNWR D.140

3 six wheeled Luggage Brakes D.385

1 bogie brake Van WCJS D.80

 

The numbers of these surviving at the end of 1952 was 8, 2, 0, 3, 1, 0, 1 respectively. I can supply the numbers of the survivors if you need them.

Never heard of it!

I thought you might say that

 

Is it any good?

 

Good enough to draw trains with, a bit limited if you want to draw organic shapes.

 

I was trained to use Inventor so it was the sensible thing to use at home....

 

Fair enough.

 

I presume then that your software has snaps to ensure that the drawing components are concentric?

I can't see any way that a drawing that has its components concentric will produce a print where parts are not concentric.

So we are left with stuff like Shapeway's old machines leaving cruft on one side of the wheels and it not being cleaned off evenly

 

Thought: Are the wheels that broke the ones that were eccentric?

ViaCAD

So what do you use to produce the drawings?

Yes, but if that hole is not concentric then the reamer will not make it concentric. Much better to start with no hole.

 

In all the wheels I've had printed I haven't had one that has not been concentric. This does assume that your original CAD has the bore concentric to the rim.

Much better to start with a wheel with a undersized bore and then open it out with a hand reamer on the lathe.

Unfortunately not but a nice idea. As well as the details Andy has posted above, another problem lies in the fact the minimum wall thickness is 1mm. Unfortunately I think the only thing that is 1mm is the width of the wheel, the rest being well under. I am sure that in time the technology will get better and printing such things in Brass will be possible but sadly not now.

 

Minimum wall thickness is 0.5mm, minimum detail 0.3mm.

 

 

What is a show stopper is that they hand polish and gold plate everything, which makes the pieces all shiney but takes off the sharp edges.

Almost all the distortion and shrinkage that you get with 'normal' lost wax casting comes from the use of rubber moulds. If you go back to you company in N Yorkshire you will find that most of its production waxes are made in hard, i.e. aluminium, moulds. They do this, in part, because of the problems inherent in the use of rubber moulds. I believe the same company has one of the machines that i.materialize uses, so maybe you should approach them with a view of at least getting samples of your wheels printed and cast.

One way to go in 2mm would be to have them made in brass by i.materialise. http://i.materialise.com/materials/brass It is more expensive and they don't like doing builds with multiple pieces, but it would give you something that has know qualities.

Its when I fit a shaft onto a wheel center without a rim that causes the problems because the stress/force cannot be transmitted through to the rim.

 

Remember though that its not the fit that I am having problems with, its the concentricity of the wheel once its on the rim and shaft.

I would agree with you about the rim containing the stresses, but have seen nylon/ABS wheels where the centre have cracked after being stresses too long. As for the concentricity, I think you have hit one of the intrinsic problems of using press fits on plastic centred wheels. That is that unless the axle is perfectly true and concentric as it is pushed into the wheel, it will score the inside of the bore and never run true. A press of some sort is really needed for this sort of work unless you have supreme* skills. Having the axles already mounted in the frames before mounting the wheels makes the whole job many times harder.

 

*OK there is a way of doing it without a press, but every time I have suggested it to modellers they have back away in horror.

As I have said before, I would be very wary of stressing FUD by force fitting the wheels onto the axles.