billbedford

Does Norway count as the Wild West? https://twitter.com/jasoncrawford/status/1695015246833025522

Wouldn't a near-infinite set of variables lead to near-infinite shades in the real thing?

We all suffer for our art...

I don't seem to have that problem. The temperature strip on the tank reads a fairly constant 26ºC, so the heater seems to work. My understanding is that raw resin is quite viscous and the suppliers dilute it with various solvents. It sounds like you have a reaction to one of these solvents rather than the actual resin. Changing the resin brand you use may help.

Yes, all the first-generation resins were much the same, it's only in the last few years that more resilient resins have come on the market. I'm using Elegoo ABS 2.0 for most of the models, but I use Sirya Tech Blu for finer stuff like couplings and buffers, particularly the buffer springs. I also have some Photocentric Durable UV80, but I find that a bit softer than the Sirya Tech ones.

You are using an inherently brittle resin. Not fully curing your models means they will become more brittle over time. Many formulations are designed to be more resilient, but they need a degree of experimentation to discover which is best for your work.

Much of this sounds like the usual internet voodoo. For the last few years, I've used some (semi-)professional resin that costs £180 per litre. Consequently, all the resins which people talk about look very cheap. However, almost all resin suppliers offer various formulas with different characteristics. It is worth trying some of these to find one that's optimal for your use. The printer can be set up to do all the stirring necessary. I have small heat inside the printer hood that keeps the resin tank at 25-26ºC Support quality is a thing. Placement and the size of the support tip are often more important than the total number. VoxelDancer costs twice as much as Lychee. Is it twice as good? Ultrasonic cleaners work by cavitation, effectively producing bubbles from the working liquid. If you insist on using IPA in an ultrasonic, I would ensure you have up-to-date fire insurance. I've adjusted my settings so that supports can be easily peeled away. Uncured resin absorbs both IPA and water. If it is not dried adequately, warping is likely. My prints are left at least 24 hours before attempting to remove the supports. Curing with UV links the resin into longer polymer chains, so over-curing is not an issue. Learning to resin print is any other skill. Learners advance by making mistakes and overcoming them.

This looks like the build plate is moving horizontally relative to the vat. I've seen something similar when I've not screwed the build plate to its support tight enough.

Don't forget that these vans were placed between the train and the loco while the wagons were propelled up the slope.

The article gives details of changes to the local seabed which explains why this wreck has only recently been exposed.

No, you're thinking of HyperSonic models...

The best comment I've heard from a wife was, "Well, it keeps him out of the pub"

Yes, the tobacco was bonded so the vans were fitted with extra locks and seals to keep the Revenue happy. The GC had a few vans used for special traffic. These were known as Dummy Vans. I have diagrams of the ones used for fish and laundry and later vans used for tobacco, but not those contemporary with this photo.

That isn't a tobacco van. It's a standard 16' sliding door van to diagram 41.

If we are talking about solar storms, I expect the damage would be more widespread than a single system.

With the Russians and Chinese having bases on the western side? Good luck with that.

Has anyone else noticed how odd the numbers quoted in that article are? This time -- X2.8 2017 -- X8.2 2003 -- X28 No info about the scale either.

How prints fail is important. As is the temperature of the resin.

Manufacturers will always tune their machines so the published settings work with their standard resins. Try other resins, and new settings appropriate for that resin will need to be found. I found this guy helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llQN-70i36M&t=7s His printing guide also helps. https://bit.ly/3OZTPsi

So when did the salt bag change from a twist of blue waxed paper to a pre-sealed sachet?

The Manxman class, which had a compatible role, were not exactly small ships, being bigger than the tribals.

...and 'proper' bags of crisps, from the 50s and 60s, always had a little blue bag of salt in them.

Another Christmas favourite...