philsandy

Thank you for your reply. Yes, I did think afterwards that a yellow ground signal was needed here there rather than a red. But I don't understand why a trap point at 4 is needed? Trains delivering to the works sidings would stop once the last wagon (ie. the brake van) has cleared the point, then the train would reverse into the works siding and drop off the wagons (maximum of 6, .... it is a small layout,) so it would not go as far as the headshunt, only as far as the signal box , and the loco is already at the right end for shunting. Trains delivering to the goods yard would run straight into the headshunt, then reverse and drop off the wagons in the goods sidings (shed) and then pick up empties. The loco would then drop the empties in the loop, then run round, (this is why I thought a shunt ahead signal was needed?) and pull the wagons away running in reverse. Would a RH subsidiary signal on the Home for the headshunt still be required? Ah yes, understand, that explains the bit I was unsure with. So the ground signal at 2 (entry to works sidings), would this also require a pair of red ground signals, ie. top: for works sidings, bottom: for main line,?

Thanks for your reply Pete. I have amended the sketch of the layout to show the positions of signal box and the 2 semaphore signals. The points to the works sidings are only 50 yards from the end of the station platform.

Thanks for your reply. This is a small layout, I was limited with the space available, hence the single line. Although it's a through station the layout actually finishes at the station, the line disappears under a viaduct, just giving the illusion that it continues on. At the other end (LH side of the sketch) the main line disappears under a bridge to a hidden fiddle yard. There are 3 works sidings which are in front of the concealed fiddle yard.

I have done some research regarding ground signals and would like some advise as to the correct positioning them. Layout is a fictional single line thru station LMR circa 1960. Is the diagram above correct? 1 ground signal controlling exit from works sidings. 2 ground signal controlling entry to works sidings. 3 ground signal controlling entry to loop. 4 ground signal controlling exit from loop. 5 yellow ground signal controlling exit from headshunt. 6 Would there need to be a ground signal here to control access to headshunt? Also how many of these ground signals, if any would require an arrow indicator pointing left or right as required.

A while ago I used DCC Concepts Nanolights to light some working semaphore signals and they work very well. They are connected to a 9 volt DC supply, with a 10k resistor soldered to the positive wire. I have just built a junction signal with 3 semaphore arms and want to fit LED lights to this. So 3 LED's needed. The plan is: join the 3 negative wires together and connect as one to the 9V negative supply, join the 3 positive wires together, solder in a 10k resistor and connect as one to the 9V + supply, My question is will this work, ie. one 10k resistor for all 3 LED's, or will each LED require it's own resistor? Also, can they be wired to a DCC supply, and if so will it require a higher value resistor?

I have built ratio signals before but not a junction signal. The instructions are up to the usual Ratio standard, vague to put it mildly. The 4 cranks are super glued to the two 16mm long wires, so each wire/crank assembly can rotate as one. My question is are the 4 operating wires (1 & 4 from the semaphore arms, and 2 & 3 to the levers) also super glued in the cranks, or as I suspect left free, so the crank can pivot around the wire?

The instructions advise to use polystyrene cement, please can some one recommend a suitable brand. I've used Rocket plastic glue on Airfix wagon kits and a Ratio signal box and it was fine, (these plastics were made from a harder /brittle type of plastic) and this glue is definitely not suitable for some plastics, it just melts and deforms it and does not stick it together. I did a test piece with the signal kit and it melted.

I'm about to build a Ratio signal, an LMS Home & Distant with Diverging Route, so 3 semaphore arms. Looking at the instructions only 2 of the arms will actually operate using the levers, the Distant arm or the lower of the 2 arms is fixed. I have built a couple of Ratio signals before. My question is would it be possible, or rather not to complex to fabricate the operating wire so that both arms on the same post can be operated using one of the levers? Obviously they would not operate independently, they would both be either On or Off. The operating wire is in 2 parts, I was thinking of maybe soldering/glueing a short piece of wire on to the top operating wire to connect to the Distant arm,

Thanks David. Very neat job on that 84XXX tank. Is that a Bachmann Ivatt conversion? I've just done the same, and now need to line it.

I have ordered a lining set for an Ivatt 2MT tank from Fox, what is the best way to apply this transfer? I would imagine it's a tricky job to apply in one piece, no room for error with this, if you mess up its £11 for another set. Is it best to cut in half, (length ways or width ways) and apply it in 2 stages?

I would advise using longer axles rather than just pulling the wheels further apart off the original axles, as RexAshton (post #3) points out. I have converted several steam locos to EM and the method I always use now is: I keep the original wheels but reduce the wheel flange thickness by 0.2 - 0.3 mm, otherwise you could have problems running through pointwork. You can do this using a good flat file placed on a table, place the wheel with the flange flat on the file, and rub up and down along the length of the file, checking the flange thickness with a vernier. Use the longer EMGS stepped axles ie. 3mm/2mm diameter and put spacers on the axles to take up the sideways slop, usually need to use two 1mm brass spacers on each axle.

I used Copydex to fix cork underlay to the baseboard, and also to fix the track to the cork. I ballasted using 50/50 Copydex and water. I have had to uplift sections of track and with care managed to do it, and reuse the track (SMP code 75).

Looking at Bachmann Ivatt 2MT tanks with push pull gear, and noticed model no. 31-450A has a red rectangle under the BR late crest. What is it?

As you suggest, I would file as much material from the "protrusion" to clear the points. As long as the gear wheel itself is not fouling on the points. If it's easy to do I would remove the wheel/axle/gear assembly before you file the plastic moulding, and pack in some tissue paper to prevent any filings going in to the mechanism.

Yes, I didn't realise how narrow the cream lining actually was (1/8"), I suppose that would be difficult to do in 4mm. On some Bachmann models I have, that do have cream lining it is over size, making it the dominant colour, where on the real thing it is the grey which is more prominent.

Does anyone know a source for 4mm transfers? Fox, Modelmaster, HMRS only seem to do red and grey lining.

Found a very good list on here for car spray paint / rail colours match, but it does not include BR black. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=21686&start=25 Someone on here said they used Halfords satin black, is this a good match, are there any other matches?

Apparently not, the tender cab is 1.5 mm lower than the loco cab. David, the etch cab was exactly the same height as the Bachmann cab, so is the problem that the tender cab side etches are simply 1.5 mm too short?

Yes the 2-6-0, it's just that on the pack it says "etched overlay for Bachmann 2-6-0". But agree, the original cab does need to be removed. Don't know yet as I only collected the etch yesterday.

I spoke to him yesterday at the EMGS show and he didn't know. I've also PM'd The Weathering Man and Tim who have both posted on here about the etch, but have had no reply. Having studied again Tim's photos on his post, http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/67176-on-tims-workbench-br-standard-2mt/page-4 it does look like he has removed the original cab and the etch kit is soldered together.

I have just bought a Judith Edge etch overlay, a BR 2MT cab, to convert a Bachmann Ivatt 2MT. I have never used an etch kit before and am unsure as to how this goes together. Is it a matter of just of gluing each etch panel to the original Bachmann cab, or would the Bachmann cab have to be removed completely? Because the main difference between the two cabs is on the BR version the cab sides slope inwards towards the top, where on the Ivatt they are straight. 

Does anyone know where I can get one from (4mm ) ? The only place I can find is Phoenix Paints and it's out of stock.

Yes, I've just noticed that, that is annoying. Why have they done that?

Looks like there isn't a service sheet for this model., I received a reply from Bachmann with a copy of the instruction sheet (that I already had). It's detailed in the fact that it tells you how to remove the body, fit decoder,speaker, lubrication etc, but there is no exploded diagram listing the part nos.

Yes, am waiting for a reply. Thanks, but that one is the old split chassis model. A useful link though, certainly more sheets on there than Bachmann's own site.