philsandy

Have done a search for this and have the Zimo manual but can not find an answer. I want to move some sound functions to different F keys. eg. sound on F24 to F8 using the NCE Powercab controller. I have tried two methods, 1. altering the value of CV534 (F8 sound assignment) to that in CV 685 (F24 sound assignment), and 2. changing CV424 (input mapping for F24) from 0 to 8. Both of these moved the sound on F24 to the required F8 key, but did not remove the original F8 sound, so have two sound effects when F8 is pressed. Can anyone help please.

I've just used these on a etched kit, a Stanier 3P tank. If you follow their instructions they look good, although I thought they needed to be slightly "thicker" to protrude more. You apply them to the bare surface , then prime/paint to seal them in. After few coats ie. primer, top coat, varnish, if applied too thick then they can start to disappear.

No, the lining does not really sit down flat on the door handles. I applied the waist lining in several individual lengths, accurately measuring the distance between each of the door handle/handgrabs (I think it was around 22mm), and it does look alright, well to my eye anyway, Certainly better than the lining going over the door handles. You can see how this look in the 3rd photo in my post of Jan. 26 2020.

Just built a Judith Edge etched kit of this loco and just finished applying the red/grey MT lining. Regarding twin red lining on the boiler bands, I have looked at many photos of this loco in BR livery (Railway Photography, excellent website), but none of them appear to have this, or on the cylinders either. Was red lining not applied to boiler bands and cylinders on this loco?

I have recently bought one of these, new. It also does not have a spring on the rear bogie, and does not show one on the service sheet either?

Patrick, I have no experience/knowledge re. split chassis locos. On most of my EM conversions I have used the original Bachmann/Hornby wheels, and reduced the flange thickness by 0.2/0.3 mm and used EMGS 3mm/2mm stepped axles. Problems can arise with the front driving wheels, when there is not enough clearance, and the crank pins foul on the cross slides. As for the brake gear with these 2 models I ended up cutting off the brake blocks and gluing them back on the keeper plate, plus packing, The brake rigging assembly was held in position by the original locating lug at the rear end, and by gluing a piece of plastic to the underside of the front end brake rigging approx. 2mm thick, I put a blob of "black tack" on this and this held it in position to the keeper plate. So the brake rigging is in the correct position, but not actually located in the brake block holes.

I used Fox cream lining, 0.5mm (cantrail) and 0.75mm (waistband). As for the roof, I painted mine in dark grey, Volkswagen Urano Grey, then sprayed with a matt varnish to take the gloss off. Sorry I don't know a match for light grey. What year are you modelling? Going off the photos I have, the light grey roofs didn't seem to be around for long. Plenty of photos from 1959 when they were introduced with light grey roofs, then none till 1962 onwards, by then they all seem to be the darker grey. I don't know whether they were repainted (I doubt it), I think they just got dirty.

The green is the standard BR green as used on diesels, DMU's etc. I used a car spray, Hycote brand - Ford Laurel Green, it's a good match.

Very nice job, don't think you've missed anything, they look right to me. I converted a Bachmann 2EPB and used DC Kits cab ends and roofs. I left the under frames as they were, not right, but it needed a lot of work to convert, so left them as they are, apart from modifying the current collecting shoe. Here is a link with some photos of mine. Also a drawing showing some detail of the underframes.

Don't hold your breath.

I used Woodland Scenics medium ballast for 4mm scale. In the coal/goods sidings I used fine, looks right to my eyes.

Chris have a look at this tutorial on YouTube, it explains how the Brian Kirby method works using tension lock couplings.

I'm looking at buying a Zimo decoder (MX648 or 649) they must have an 8 ohm speaker. I have several ESU 4 ohm speakers. Could I use 2 of these without any problems, ie. too low volume, and if so would they need to wired in series or parallel?

and they are a b***** to fit.

Thanks Nile, it's just above the handrail.

On the domeless versions 40071 - 40144 on the LH side of the smokebox there is what resembles a small top feed, just above and horizontal with the handrail. There appears to be pipework to it also. What is it and where can I source one, or knock one up from something?

I thought that the green wire was for sound, F1 ?

So do away with the socket, and solder the red & black decoder wires to pick ups, and orange and grey to motor? How would you hardwire a sound decoder, ie. where would the green wire go?

No, it is DCC.

I am building an etched kit of a Stanier 3P and plan to fit this on a modified Hornby Stanier 4P chassis. The DCC socket is right at the front in the smokebox. On the Hornby body the underside of the smokebox is cut away to accommodate the DCC socket/decoder plug. But the Stanier 3P smokebox is smaller in diameter (approx. 3mm) and if I cut a slot in the underside wide enough (12mm ) to go over the socket it might be seen. Is there any reason why the DCC socket can not be unscrewed from its mounting, and have the whole thing, socket/ decoder plug, with a strip of insulation tape around it to protect it, and have it loose, and pushed into the smoke box barrel?

Thanks for that Brian, lots of good tips there, very useful.

I don't know how far back it goes for "toy trains", as I stated in my second post I don't know how old the model is.

Have just bought an Judith Edge etched kit, a Stanier 3P 2-6-2T. Never built a kit before so it's all new territory. Would like some advise on how to roll a tapered boiler. I don't have access to rollers so will need to do it by hand. Found a diagram of a Stanier 3P 2-6-2T showing some dimensions. The boiler is 4' 2" (16.7mm) outer dia. at the front and 4' 9" (19mm) outer dia. at the rear. The etch is 0.015" N/S. How would one go about rolling this to produce the correct taper, what diameter bar would I need, (slightly smaller than reqd. diameter?), is it best to anneal it beforehand?

Just had a look now, a white dot. I wonder if it's worth contacting Hornby and asking for a replacement. I only got it yesterday, and as I said it does run well, but the fact that it would not respond on one occasion when I kept pressing the emergency stop suggests it's not reliable.

Thanks for all your replies. I don't know how old the model is, but I bought this still in it's unopened box. It runs very smoothly using NCE Powercab, although on one occasion it would not respond when I kept pressing the emergency stop. Are you suggesting these decoders are only 100% on Hornby's own DCC controller?