ROSSPOP

Hi Focalplane

Yes I have considered Poppy`s builder box and have followed it on Tony Wrights blog, but I`m a modeller of habit and once I find a reliable method that suits me I tend to stick to that. It looks very usefull though......

In both 4mm and now 7mm I use Metalsmiths axle jig and Hobby holidays sprung hornblocks  and Slaters plastic version ,although these have been upgraded but in my view are now useless to me...

I like David Andrews kits I`m halfway into his GWR Castle kit but he does`nt seem to produce any small LMS locos so I`m loooking at a Gladiator LMS 2P (Lemon) 4-4-0 tank or maybe another Slaters 0-6-0 half cab......

I`l add some more pics........

https://www.flickr.com/photos/139721082@N05/24479458974/in/dateposted-public/

Sorry CK ....no longer have the Bachmann 7F, but I can confirm that the Gibson replacement rods are/were 24mm x 22 x 24mm and they could`nt be fitted. My impression at the time was that perhaps the overall length of wheel base had been shortened by a couple of mm to get her round tight curves.

Certainly Gibson vs Bachmann are not the same  wheelbase (my vote goes to Gibson) and that is the first time I failed to fit Gibson connecting rods to a Bachy RTR.

Now the Hornby 8F was a perfect fit !!!   as was the Hornby Black 5  and Baachmann class 5,  Bachmann class 4 tank.

Now interestingly zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz  Bachmann BR Mogul my second favourite RTR model took the Gibson rods but there is so much slop in the axle housings that will probably take a 1/8th axle !!!   my only failure. Although I`ll snap up a 

Kemilway Mogul chassis if one comes up

Yes CK that Kemilway etched chassis is a joy to build....I missed bidding for another on ebay last year, I`m pretty sure there is a whole Kemilway kit on ebay as we speak, but as I`ve said previously I try to use the RTR chassis if its got potential.

Yes Focalplane, having been swept away,as it were,  with all the  quality RTR that tempted me I`d forgotten all about the  achievement and all the skills I`d gained in making all those good and bad loco kits.

This thread is`nt just about P4 is more about me realising that a model does`nt just make the grade because its off the shelf and stuffed with every detail, be it in brass or plastic/mazak and niether does it mean that you need to dismiss that kit built experience because it has`nt got every rivet in place.

Yep train fan............... your right....I think in another 15 to 20 years, particularly in 4mm there will be less kit builders and less kits(decent).  Mind you I still think a half decent kit build is still a much better runner than RTR and better looking /realistic below footplate......

I`ll never need to kit build a BR Standard class because of the high standard of what is currently on offer RTR , but I do wonder if we have had the very best now as we Brits seem to baulk at paying mega bucks for quality detailed stuff .

Anyhow as long as Comet models, Brassmasters, Alan Gibson, Finecast, London Road Models, C&L keep going until I breath no more.......I`ll be alright Jack !!!!!

Thanks for your kind comments John.

I`m surprised she does`nt look right in EM....not even with Ultrascale wheels ???

I agree that making something  yourself has more emotional value than some RTR I`ve owned. Now that RTR mechanisms are better quality I try to still use the same chassis, even if the brake blocks don`t line up with the wheels, whenever I can.

I found that the Bachmann Jinty was fairly easy to take apart and to widen the chassis sides using plasticard and refit the brakes to line up with the wheels.

 

Still hav`nt managed to refit the glazing !!!!

 

 

 

This is an old Airfix body on a comet chassis and comet tender......

 

 

 

These are part of my P4 collection I`m keeping for future projects...all put together over the past 15years or so.

 

Regards

 

john

 

 

Sadly.......

No gear changing though........

Many thanks Mike and `civicman.....

........even though I`m a GWR fan the coach is something different from the many GWR auto coaches.....

I`m waiting for a `certain package` from Digitrains......to finally complete the Johnson 1P loco and to then make them a working pair...........

Again I have read (somewhere) probably in my other GWR passion that shunting was done with at least single push pull coaches still attached.  I`m sure it would be too much hastle and time consuming to keep disconnecting three hoses and a coupling at every shunting turn, particularly if it was just a couple of wagons.

John

Thanks Barry

I remember having trouble lining up the tabs on the body with the slots in the chassis, so I removed all tabs except for one at each end of the coach.

I never used the supplied bogies.

I think Rod Neep's kit designs were pretty good.

John

Thanks Corbs

I don't know exactly but I've seen many a photo of push- pull locos sandwiched between the coach and a short pickup goods train, so this pic may be showing the return trip of just the brakevan.

John

That`s encouraging Horsetan, thanks and for introducing me to RT Models...........

Thanks Jub.

10 years ago I looked on Bill`s website and his 1P chassis was in preparation, and taking a look today ,it still is which is a pity as I like his stuff...........

I guess if a RTR manufacturer produced a 1P Bill might kick start production.......

I used a Jim Maidment chassis kit which he used to produce in 4mm for his SDJR version. Sadly he died in 2010 and his 4mm and 7mm ranges died with him.

Cheers

John

There is only one use I can think of and that is placing it at the end of a scenic break under a bridge linked to a sector plate......which would act as the missing toe end

John

Thanks Mark

I think your right they did and they were also shedded at Bedford which is my home town....

I wont be exploring the attic for a while as the whole job has aggravated my knackered back ....... hey ho! the challenges of railway modelling....

Seniority/senility are terrible things..............

john

Thanks bg and mikkel...... yep, I`ve decided to just make a few adjustments, namely to move the front sanding gear as I think that this was done when she was refitted anyway, it should be behind the front steps. Fit some cab flooring and a backhead  and add a loco crew to fill the cab and some glazing.

She also needs a change of pickups  and I shall have ago at filling in some space between the drivers and rear bogie.   I`m rather pleased I did`nt scrap her all those years ago as you say she`s got a bit of character about her.

It has puzzled me as to why I had fitted her for push pull and further searching in the attic has unearthed a part finished Perseverance LMS push-pull coach !!!!.... More of that in the next episode........

Posting off an order to Alan Gibson for some cast backheads............

High Graham

Sorry about my sad 'humour' but to explain..... If the switches are functioning properly you should hear four 'clicks' every time you throw the point, that is one click for each switch.

I have found that under load ( from point blades in 7mm ) the moving 'cam' does not travel quite far enough to throw all the switches on some of the mechanisms.

With the upper most switches you can loosen the screws and twist the switch to point inwards a tad to point towards the centre of the mechanism but not so with the lower switch and if that one does not throw it can cause the motor to overheat.

my simple solution is to remove the screws and the upper switch and open out the holes in the bottom switch with a drill so that when reassembled you can also angle this switch inwards a tad.

You may need to increase your operating volts a tad also.

When all is well you should hear The Four Clicks and also seethe switches click over......

Hope this is clear enough..........

john

LED strip lights are now attached.....just some cable tidying to complete tomorrow as I upset the neatness by spending an hour and a half tracing a power fault which I eventually found to be a naff connection on one module.......

Alan

What a brilliant approach to railway modelling. Your production is full of atmosphere and skillfull modelling

Well done.....keep it coming....

Regards

John

E

Hi

I gave up on Cillet Pop!   Try Bar Keepers Friend... far superior on brass models.

Regards

John

Yes t-t Pete....but I had to do all the ground work......25years of them seeing my loco's as screen wallpaper .......!

Thankyou for your appreciative comments Mikkel.

I think I`ve settled on a satisfying  GWR station track plan, which will be purely fictitious based on Melchett on the Wibble somewhere slightly left of the Midlands. Well known for the famous Baldrick Furnishing Company and Melchett Glass factory.

Unlike the GWR halt which is of Sarsden Halt near Cheltenham.

John

Hi again

I'm more an artist than an engineer, so I don't measure wire gauges. the wire supplied with Bill Beds w-irons copes with just about everything ,but for cast metal kits I just guage by eye up to a little thicker. I have two sets of wire and bearing holder of each guage and ' trial and 'error '

Sorry about the blog issue but every modelling site has its idiosyncrasies when it comes to downloading pics. With the O guage site you have to send your pics to another country before adding them to their site. Don't know about you though but I've learnt an awfull lot by trawling these two modelling sites, it's as enjoyable as making a model.

Regards

John

Very much trial and error Miss Prism. I used the MJT axle box casting as a reference, bearing in mind there is compression of the springing wire to think about. If it is too weak then I replace the guage of the wire until the ride height is acceptable.