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ROSSPOP

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Blog Comments posted by ROSSPOP

  1. Controversial............  but.

     

    assuming non of you like/can build kits etc.......

     

    your happy with not trying to build a version of Clapham Junction

     

    sell all your 4mm stock, the latest locos and wagons/ coaches are getting really expensive and the chassis running qualities are not keeping up with the increased cost.

     

    Move over to 7mm RTR..... a far more decent quality loco that will look really good, run really really good, and the wife will start to think your a miniature engineer !!

     

    a far better 7mm RTR loco from Dapol (without DCC) will cost £225 and £255 from Minerva Models.

     

    RTR wagons are around £45 each but you wont need twenty of them anyway.

     

    RTR coaches are  between £200- 250 each but you will only need one or two...

     

    You can run them all on your 4mm controllers even for DCC ( but not Heljan)

     

    There are 7mm  building part manufacturers to help with scenery etc

     

    Peco products for  RTP trackwork.

     

    You`ll need about £1000 to start a small but modest layout.

     

    Go on take a look at a 7mm RTR loco !!!!!

     

    Cheers Johnny Rosspop !!

  2. Thankyou.

     

    I suppose it has been all down to me being predominantly a loco `kit` builder, not only because of personal satisfaction etc but to achieve my own interpretation of  `perfect running` that I still believe cannot routinely be expected from mass produced RTR. I also feel that a `metal` prototype   modelled in `metal` has a finer aesthetic image.

     

    Of course, this may be available from the more expensive manufacturers.... Finescalebrass etc, I would certainly expect it to be. But I can`t afford those......

     

    Like you all I also save time by using RTR coaching stock and have a Lionheart and Tower Models GWR auto coach, but have managed to track down a complete RJH bow ended `B` set rather than the Dapol/Lionheart production just to `model them myself`

     

    And of course  the LMS does`nt seem to attract production of RTR rolling stock so I have now got a quality etched LMS pull-push coach to complete.

    may be this will change with Dapol`s 7mm Jinty..................................... 

     

    Anyhow, for the first time in 40 years I finally have the `last` loco kit to start....... the MOK 48XX Auto tank and one kit to finish... the DA Castle kit..

     

    No More Loco Kits................................................................................

  3. Thanks folks..........bbbbbbbbbbbbut......  SR,  GWR, LMS, LNER  and Industrial type  reasonably priced  RTR are now covered by the likes of    Heljan, Dapol, Minerva, Ixion , Lionheart etc...

     

    Only MOK have been producing new 7mm loco kits and I can`t see any other  kit manufacturers extending their ranges..........

     

    Grab the quality kits if you can............  the end is nigh !!!!!!     We`ve hit the buffers !!!................................ Off the rails !!..... trapped by the bunkers !!

     

    We`re all  DOMED !!!       :threaten: 

  4. Been there Knuckles and got several Tshirts..... stick to making your own track in whatever gauge/standard you wish. It can`t be beaten..........

     

    You will have learnt a lot.   As they say....you learn the most from making mistakes.

     

    Back in 1998 I finished (three year stint) a small P4 exhibition layout.... just five handbuilt points.  

     

    I used chipboard for the track bed but when it came to ballasting with PVC glue and water the exposed chipboard at every baseboard joint became swollen overnight raising the trackwork into `peaks` at every joint and bending the rail skywards. !!!

     

    My then teeenage daughter then let her pet cockatiel walk the entire lenght of said layout eating and pecking at all my hard work.!!

     

    Don`t let the b*%^$ers get you down......

     

    John

  5. Thanks Stringf...

     

    I moved over to 7mm in 2008 after 25years in 4mm P4.  I never got on with compensation/beams et al and eventually settled for Kean/Maygib sprung hornblocks despite the better weight distribution of compensation.

     

    So naturally I looked for something similar in 7mm.  I`m very satisfied with these Hobbyholidays products.

     

    I`ve built the Javelin Models Duke which has these hornblocks for the main drivers and Slaters version on the front bogie but with springy wire.

  6. I did exactly the same as you John.

     

    Started with Tower Brass RTR and Lionheart locos, but I never seemed to maintain the emotional attachment and I ended up selling them to fund loco kits.

     

    After 40years of modelling though a good kit built loco will always out perform an RTR loco and the personal satisfaction is priceless.

     

    I started in 2008 and bought one of those Digital Soldering Stations( that are really only designed for the electronics industry). It did`nt like being used at the high wattage end of the spectrum and gave up the ghost one month over the 1 year warranty ( waste of £150). It only coped with two brass etched loco kits.

     

    I reverted back to the tried and tested Antex soldering irons. 40watt and 80watt plus a gas/flame torch........ sorted.

    I have also got a 150watt iron but has been a waste of money as it`s never been needed.

     

    Cheers

     

    John

  7. Hi john

    Glad you`ve snaffled up a kit, I needed an 80watt iron due to the thickness on the superstructure. The beading is a bit of a challenge.

     

    I`m not an absolute follower of fitting `the exact loco sound` file to my locos. I am a great fan of Digitrain productions though. The J94 sound file is for all two cylinder `shunting`  1F type locos whereas the Jinty is a 3F and has sounds that a 1F would`nt probably have, at leasts thats my reconing....still excellent though.

     

    I`ve snaffled up a Sevenscal Pug kit ( now produced by Springside) and am looking forward to fitting Digitrains `pug` sound file.

     

    John

  8. I can remember many times using wheel press tools for assembling Alan gibson wheels many `on the dink` as you have described ( and then super glueing the odd steel wheel rim back in place)........

     

    I still have many of his wheel sets....... but I dumped the wheelpress tools......

     

    If you  set up your cordless drill and use medium and fine grade `wet an dry` or similar to shine up the axles until the Gibson wheels just about push on with finger pressure, you can then `quarter` the wheels by eye using the spokes. The `plastic` wheel centres seem to have a `memory` and will grip fairly tight after time. Once you`ve got the hang of it........ no more gibson ` wheel wobbles`.........

     

    John

  9. Thankyou all for your encouraging comments.

     

    At some time I`ve got to learn how to apply weathering, which I think I will attempt to do gently by hand.

     

    Your right Paul..... that cab is exposed to the elements and from the photos I`ve seen from the 1930`s there are coal spills all over the cab floor.....

     

    ....... But she`s to have sound installed first !!!!

     

     

    John

  10. Hi there,

     

    I would`nt necessarily be worried about needing a lot of space in changing over to 7mm model railways.  Save your pennies if you need to that is .... you can have a lot of fun with one 7mm RTR loco and a couple of wagons and a brake van.  And if you consider DCC sound it will open up another stimulus of enjoyment.

     

    Your right about the Dapol Terrier, it is an excellent model for the price.

     

    I worry about Heljan though as they are not renouned for the quality of their mechanisms and motors.......

     

    However , I would recommend you look at Minerva models who are going to produce a RTR 57XX.

     

    Lionheart produce a 74XX but are a little more expensive.

     

     

    John

  11. Thanks Andy....... have saved the pic...... that  match looks very scratchbuildable using Slaters chassis parts, which will do for the jib end.  I have now got to consider something much flatter for the counterbalance overhang end!!!!

     

    I`d like to track down some etched plates that these hand cranes seem to have attached to the counterbalance box.............

     

    Cheers 

     

    John

  12. Thanks Mikkel,

     

    Bob Moore`s instructions advise using plastic formers ... they turned out to be the easiest part of the project. `Ive got an ancient Rotring drawing board I use  for the draughtmanship.... plus an O level in engineeriing drawing !!! (1967) They said it would come in handy through life !!!!

    I wonder if that is taught in schools anymore??!!!

     

    I love using plasticard....score and snap and away you go........

     

    John

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