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Melton Works

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Posts posted by Melton Works

  1. 16 hours ago, Vecchio said:

     

    I suppose you need to sped match them first before going into a consist. Some controllers have this feature and give guidance on how to do it, but in any case you could do it with CV5 and alteration of the speed curve if necessary. 3-point speed curve with CV6, but there are more sophisticated methods. 

    CV 5 and 6 match. F8 on (wheelslip) consist fine, both automatically go into wheelslip mode, consist fine, both go into thrash mode, fine, they both go I to opposite modes automatically when above speed step 12, theres your problem. 

  2. On 02/05/2023 at 22:29, Andy7 said:

    Whilst the sound file is absolutely brilliant it definitely doesn’t alter the acceleration settings when it goes into wheel slip. So your problem is mismatched consist, not the wheel slip, which is only sound only and not motion.

    The one that goes into wheelslip mode, definately slower, otherwise they run well together as long as I dont open them up, but when they both go into wheelslip or full open, again fine

  3. 12 hours ago, uk_pm said:

    I recall reading somewhere that when double-heading in DCC back-EMF can cause issues.  Have you tried turning it off in one, or both, locos?

    They run really well together, until you go above speed step 10, not always, but one of them will randomly go into wheelslip mode and they will get separated or one will shove the other one off the track. It's very hit and miss.

     

    Kev

  4. On 09/02/2023 at 12:31, newbryford said:

    There is a possibility that a model set will be running on Deadmans Lane ate Glasgow in two weeks.

    Courtesy of a friend.

     

    There's a few details still to be sorted.

     

    47712.jpg.5eb10ad4bc34047381f9a9def082d9e6.jpg

     

    Looking Cracking, just finished my version (other than a few finishing touches to the DBSO) it really needs to stretch its legs on a layout sometime!

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    • Like 4
    • Craftsmanship/clever 1
  5. 21 hours ago, McC said:

    F17 is the tail lights control and F18 is for the headlight, but once the functions are the same, and you have consisting set up ok on your controller, it should automatically work (if using a Z21, or ESU controller)

    With mine F18 turns off taillights. On 419 F17 turns off high intensity light, 423 its spirax valves. I have a gaugemaster prodigy and not sure the consist has taken. Also F11 on 419 flange squeal constantly while moving and 423, whilst manuvoring through points etc. The running is a bit better, but one will occasionally go into wheelslip mode slowing down with the other coming off the rails?

     

    Factory reset methinks and start again. 

     

    Kev

  6. Good Afternoon all!

     

    There isn't anything more I could say that hasnt been mentioned on this thread. The 37s are spot on, detailed to the exact prototype and the more you look at them, the more detail you see.

     

    Anyway the only issue I have (asked Accurascale customer services about this too awaiting response) is double heading/top and tail. A must as I'm modelling DRS GA "short set", both locos will pull away fine work nicely together, then either one of the locos (randomly) will go in "wheelslip mode" (F8 not used) then either the set will separate (magnet couplings) or the coaches will come off, as one loco is then running quicker than the other. 

     

    For the lighting, I have pulled the plugs for the inboard lights, unless there is a way to adjust the CV settings to operate them in top and tail mode other than just disabling the taillights. 

     

    Anyway no criticism of Accurascale or the model itself, actually the Accurascale customer service are excellent, but if anyone has any suggestions, it would be very much appreciated!

     

    Many thanks

     

    Kev (Melton Works)

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    • Like 6
  7. On 16/04/2023 at 12:56, D400 said:

    DCC Function Issues. 

     

    I don't know if this just affected me (seems unlikely?) but both the card that comes with the loco and the function table on the decoder itself contain a few errors. Fortunately I have a LokProgrammer so most of these have now been sorted and I can pass on to you how to fix it with your chosen DCC programmer. All at own risk, accept no responsibility etc!  

     

    First of all the card:

    F17 Spirax valves - No spirax valves but this appears to turn the tail lights off which should be... 

    F18 Tail lights on/off - This turns the headlight on and off but not the tails! Same thing is also performed by F22 and F23. F22 doesn't actually apply to my model but I would guess would be relevant for those of you with 37423 with its wipacs. I've been careful to make sure that my mods *shouldn't* affect this, but obviously I don't have one to try so can't be 100% sure! 

    F31 - Card states this has a soundslot but no description! - It is the compressor for those of you who were not sure. 

     

    The pink section of the card is very useful as it correctly identifies which AUX function is attached to what with the expectation of AUX13 which is incorrectly labelled as "Top Rear" - same as AUX12. The decoder is set to provide power to this function all of the time so I'm not sure what it is! 

     

    The following CV changes will correctly restore the Spirax sounds to F17 (they were the there but unallocated to any function!) and move the tail lights to F18 as per the card. Please note these use Loksound v5 extended programming table. This means you MUST change CV31 and CV32 FIRST before changing the CVs listed below in each section. I hope that is clear and as I say I accept no responsibly! 

     

    CV31 = 1, CV32 = 1
    ----------------------
    CV291 =  64
    CV292 =   6
    
    CV31 = 16, CV32 = 4
    ----------------------
    CV325 =   0
    CV326 =   2
    CV341 =   0
    CV342 =   2
    CV358 =   0
    CV374 =   0
    
    CV31 = 16, CV32 = 5
    ----------------------
    CV405 =  64
    
    CV31 = 16, CV32 = 10
    ----------------------
    CV408 =  16

     

    One final item on the card which I can't seem to access is the cold start which is mentioned on F8. I am currently presuming this particular sound set doesn't have one. 

     

    Constructive criticism for future locos; it might be worth putting a dip switch on to turn on/off the stay-alive pack. It can cause all sorts of problems while attempting to re programme. 

     

    Cheers!

    Bruce 

    Hi

     

    I have changed these CVs on my 423 and 425 and has made a hell of a difference! Can now use Spirax valves on F17, Taillights on/off F18 and hall sensor on F11 now enabled. 

     

    But for some reason, F21 and 31 control the engine room lights? 

     

    Anyway your information is very much appreciated! 👍👍

     

    Kev (Melton Works)

    • Like 1
  8. On 25/03/2023 at 13:27, Southwich said:

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    Double glazing - second new Bachmann 37 glazed over the last few days with the slightly larger glazing which now looks spot on on 37401. Windows need a clean but very pleased with this

     

     

    Thanks Dave - Large Logo tractor next to be 37425 and then all three will have the smaller details fitted. I’ve gone with Pete Harvey’s etched ploughs which I think is a must fit for their finesse.

     

     

    Thanks for your kind words Justin - completely agree with your comment. Well worth the LaserGlaze as you’ll never get that level of glazing under factory conditions.

     

    Kind regards,

     

    Will

    This makes a huge difference and is the first time I have actually seen a 37 in model form that seems to capture the cab windows correct. Amazing what adding Lazerglaze can do!

  9. On 24/12/2022 at 18:23, 43179 said:

    Not only does the gold look different but the green-white fade-out looks completely different on the two models. It’s less convincing on the Power cars. If they’d finished these correctly I’d have bought a full set but not looking like that .
    As Vic Reeves used to say , “Very poor indeed”


    Jon

    This is totally unacceptable! I've made the mistake of purchasing the whole set. The coaches I got away with by using microsol/set to get the decal to sink into the door recess, then a few coats of klear to seal. But when the powecars turned up, I lost the will to live. Something needs to be done about this as quite frankly Hornby dont give a s**t the fact we spend out hard earnings, in this current climate on their sub standard models at rip off prices. Accurascale all the way!

    • Agree 3
  10. On 24/08/2022 at 16:49, Wild Boar Fell said:

    My pair turned up today (DVTs 26 & 29), I must say they do look smart and fortunately doesn't seem to have and QC issues that I can see.

    But the first thing that strikes me (not assisted by the underframe colour being grey admittedly) is just how toy like the chassis is, it just doesn't look 'sharp'. I am not trying to have a go at the manufacturer, just expected the model to be comparible to the very good Mk3 DVT. 

    I've put in some shots for comparison (I know the underframes are different, but just to compare the approaches), fastening detail, printed detail, even the BIS is a separate part on the Mk3, not so on the Mk4 which has is molded in neither the on or off position on the Non-Drivers Side. Also worth noting that the Mk3 DVT has wire handrails and opening doors.

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    All in all, more than a little disappointed to be honest. The Mk3 DVTs were up there with the Class 60, this feels like Railroad Range. 

    But that's just my opinion.

    I honestly think there isn't alot of difference between my 30 year old "rework" and the new tooling?.... repaint, adding bufferbeam detail, directional lights, wifi pod and etched wipers.

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    • Craftsmanship/clever 1
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