-missy-

Hello Paul I have to agree with Mark, the stuff you produce is fantastic. I really like the things you are doing and look forward to your posts and I know I am not alone. Missy

Hello Pugsley OMG you are so right!! That is so going to stick now!!! Thank you though. Missy

Hello Things are still moving forward on the railcar. I have now been concentrating on the roof and this is how far I have got. Let me know if you are getting bored yet! I firstly laminated some black plasticard onto the brass roof profile I previously made. In this case it was 5 layers of 0.5mm thick sheet. The reason was because it was easier to get the sheet to fit the profile at the ends with thinner sheet. I left the roof overnight so the plastic had time to set after glueing then formed the roof profile using a collection of scrapers and emery paper. The picture above shows what an end looks like before I formed them. The final two photos show an end after I formed it again with scrapers and emery paper. The final touches were done with 400 grit just folded over itself a couple of times then lightly rubbed over the area. This worked wonders with smoothing off all the edges and rounding everything off. So thats how far I have got now... Missy

Hi Nick Thanks again for the help. I have some 0.5mm fibre optic around somewhere so I can use that. I am not sure the removable tail lamp is really possible though, remember its 2mm scale! Are you sure there wasnt a red light on the railcar? I know in BR times they used a tail lamp as you suggest but there must have been one on the railcar already! Missy

Hello Thank you Nick and Bernard for your detailed replies, its information like that which helps so much especially with all the little bits and pieces. I am definately going to cut away the bogie covers on the sides. This of course now means I am thinking on how to recreate the bogies on the chassis when it arrives. I have had a browse through the book and although the bogie sides are quite plain there are some weird axleboxes / gearboxes to build. I will have to think this through a bit more... As for lights and the reason for asking is I really want to fit lights to it so it can run on Highclere in the dark but although the book shows the position (as you two mention) it doesnt mention the colours. Thinking about the model its definately a job for a bit of fibre optic as the actual lights are so small, lets hope they are bright enough! Thank you. Missy

Hello Peter Thank you. Its cool that you have picked up enough inspiration to have a go yourself, Im sure you will make a fantastic job of it and if there is anything I can do to help then please let me know. When you are ready let me know and I can send you the template for the bit at the ends which form the curved bit and are missing from the kit. Missy

Hello devondynosoar I would have used low melt solder to fill the ends but there are a few details I need to add still and I didnt want to undo all that sanding. I really must get to grips with using different temperature solders as for things like this it would make it easier. Thank you for the comment though, as you say it wasnt very straightforward to do but sometimes I like a little challenge, plus at the end of it all I hopefully will end up with something not many people have got. Fingers crossed Dapol or Farish dont produce one soon! Missy

Hi Andy This is soooo frustrating! Easitrac looks so good in those photos and coupled with the running problems I had at the Expo it just makes me want to tear up all the track on Highclere and start again! I think a little layout like that with Easitrac is totally the right thing to do. Keep the posts comming please. Missy

Hello The layout is comming along nicely there. I always keep on visiting your pages to see what you have been upto. I think the concept of the layout has alot of potential for an interesting scene. Personally I wouldnt fit a backscene to it so when at exhibitions you could view it from all sides. If you wanted a backscene for taking photos how about making something floor standing with a simple sky printed on it, something like a roller banner or similar? That way you could move it around the layout to whatever position you wanted. Missy

Hello Rovex Thats a very impressive building you have made there, its a fantastic bit of work. I persoanlly think it looks nicer with the red brick but as you say if the prototype used white brick then white it shall be! The weathering is going to becomme very important as you will have to loose that 'plasticard' feel to it. Missy

Hello Bernard Thank you for your reply. Its weird but I just realised the fact the BR ones didnt have covers on yesterday and was starting to think how I could easily chop them off so I am glad you are thinking the same thing. One of things I am worried about though as you mentioned is the height of the chassis unit thing, I really hope it doesnt creep too much into the inside of the coach! While I am here typing I do have a question about the lights. They seem to have three lights, two at bufferbeam level and one above the cab, which ones were what colours? Do you (or anyone else) know? Thank you. Missy

Hi Phil Thank you. My modelling may not be the fastest around by a long way but I always stick with something until I am totally happy with it. A good example is it has taken me all weekend (on and off) to get the shape of the roof ends right! I feel with something like this it has to look right otherwise I just would not do the fantastic prototype justice. When I eventually get round to painting it (which I am really looking forward to) it will be Crimson and Cream. Missy

Hi Chris. Thank you. I use a mix of a sanding disk in a mini drill, various files, and finish with 320 grit wet and dry emery paper. I use the files to roughly shape the area, and the sanding disc to sand to the correct profile, the emery then smooths everything off. As the original etches are quite thin the plan is to glaze it by simply sticking clear plastic to the inside once it is painted. I will probably end up fitting a false floor in the railcar once the chassis is fitted (when it arrives) but the plan is to fit some kind of seats and hopefully one or two passengers. Hello Andy. Thank you. I didnt anneal the Brass this time. I have just been paitent and formed the brass so it fits the area well before soldering it in making sure it fits without having to hold it in place and it 'springing' out of shape. I then 'tack' solder it in position, check again, then once I am happy flood the join with solder. This time I havent been frugual with the solder and spent extra time sanding back the excess solder. One thing I have learnt is that if you are quick you can apply more solder to an area without it effecting the other areas if you take the soldering iron away as soon as the solder flows onto the metal, this way you can slowly build up an area with solder (basically use it like a filler). Thank you to Russel for teaching me that trick. The railcar is supposed to be railcar number 12 as I have a picture of that one on the DN&SR. According to the book its an AEC one with a toilet. Hiya Adam. Thanks. I am planning (as Bernard says) on using a tomix chassis which I have on order from Osborns Models. Hello Bernard. Thank you for the advice. As I have mentioned above I have the chassis on order from Maurice and once it arrives I will start fitting it. He did say that I will have to lengthen the chassis to fit but this is an easy job to do (apparantly!). Hello Graham. Thank you. I am doing the one without the buffet with just a toilet. Hiya Neb and Pete. Thank you. I hope you guys are inspired by it. It does show that with a little paitence things are possible! Thank you guys. Missy

Hello This is one of the hardest kits I have done so far! I have spent most of today making a start on the roof, trying to get one end to fit the streamlined shape of the cab. Below is how far I have got and to be honest I dont think I can get it any better. Since the last post I have finished the cabs on both ends, below are a few pictures on how far I have got... The last picture shows how I am making the roof. The main section is a piece of brass sheet which will eventually sit ontop of the etched sides and ends. The PCB on the underside helps locate the roof and will have the LEDs fitted to it for the lighting. The shape of the roof ontop will be formed from plasticard once I have finished the other end. Its all taking an awful lot of filing and sanding but please let me know if it looks ok, I can only study the prototype photos so much! Missy

Hi Pete WOW, you really are flexing your modelling muscles right now. Obviously the Expo inspired you quite a bit! First there was Coombe Junc', then Kyle, then the OO one, also some O gauge?, and now this. Where do you find the time! Its all good stuff though, Im still admiring how neat all your work is. Missy

Hello I have to agree with James. The level of detail, the tone of the layout and the high quality of finish is amazing. Fantastic work. Missy

Ahhhhhhh, thats what happened to it! I hope it returns oneday. Missy

Hello Im loving the look of this so far. As Kris says its definately got some nice flowing landscape to it. There are so many layouts around that have so much crammed into them its almost like they do not follow any sort of prototype but this is one that definately doesnt fit into that category. Please dont overcrowd this one as it has so much potential. Its a big selling point of N Gauge / 2mm which is so easily overlooked. Missy

Hi guys Hello Rich. That would be cheating! I do now have the template for the 'missing piece of the jigsaw' now though so if you would like it let me know. Hi Nigel. According to Maurice it does fit although the chassis needs to be lengthend a bit (but the bogies are correct apparantly). Worst case I can always take the sideframes off if there isnt enough movement as the side skirts will hide most of it. Once I get the chassis no doubt I will post something on it. Hiya Chris. Thank you. Its always good to get feedback on the layout. Its also nice to know people have confidence in me. Missy

Hello James Thank you. I hope the ends on the 4mm model are easier to form than the 2mm one though! Missy

Hello James. Those sketches certianly capture some atmosphere. Its a shame you ideas are going to sit on the shelf though. Missy

Hi John. I keep on comming back to your blog time after time. Its amazing they way you can produce things over and over without any real worries and the finished models look fantastic. Keep them comming, please. Missy

Hello Pete I agree with the others in saying that is great for a first attempt. I clean my etched bits with one of those fine fibre brushes as rich says and it works wonders, you obviously need to be careful of the little bits that come off it though. A final scrub with an old toothbrush and some Ajax type stuff helps get the flux off. Keep going... Missy

Hi Kris Those endboards look very promising. There is something I like about layouts with curved boards, I dont know what but I really like Brafferton and mini MSW so yours has that potential too. What will you do with lights and stuff for them? I agree with Don though and would consider using curved points instead of straight ones, it will be easier to fit things in. Congratulations on the class 11 too. Missy