drduncan

But then for me, I find BR standard classes fall into the ‘oh no, not another one’ category - it’s all a matter of personal interest. 😀

I suppose it strange that Bachmann have not produced either a GWR Duke (they have the basic body already from the Earl) or a Bulldog (they have the chassis from the Earl). I imagine it is because scanning is a lot easier/cheaper than CADing from drawings and photos. Or perhaps the Earl was not a commercial success and has put them off. Mind you the City seemed to do well enough to emerge in several variants. Duncan

As you point out the body length is clear, but my question was whether anyone knew what the wheelbase was - which doesn’t appear on the panel with the other information. Happily skinnylinny’s thread may have the answer. D

Thank you. Most helpful. Duncan

Any more information about the wagon in the opening post such as builder or wheelbase? Also where did you find the photo? Regards Duncan

Excellent work. Duncan

I forgot to say - the rounded ended 3 plank is one of those with fitched under frames. D

Today’s print is for a GWR standard gauge rounded ended 3 plank wagon. It has been finished with ABS non reversible brake shoes and lever, plus tapered buffers to represent a wagon around the turn of the century. It terms of livery this one will be in red with G.W.R at the right hand end. Regards Duncan

Try https://www.modelstock.co.uk but the website is still being built. D

@MikeOxon Thanks for your comment and I hope they sell too! Regarding your question as to what is being bought in and what is being printed it depends (a good historian’s answer I know). What generally guides me is one of two things. First, what are the things I normally replace when building kits - buffers, vac pipes etc, brakes and brake levers usually. I also normally use etched W-irons. The second factor is what is available that I’d use. So if there is something available I’d tend to say in the instructions you’ll need x type of buffers (or whatever) and you can get them from here or here. Certainly, @Schooner found this helpful rather than just saying source your own. If something isn’t available - like today I noticed that late BG convertible wagons had round based tapered buffers but abs only do them with rectangular bases so that was a quick CAD design this afternoon - I’ll print it and include it in the box. So wooden shoed brake gear and curved levers get printed and included but straight levers and normal shoes are available from various sources so aren’t included. I know others include more, but I’m conscious that a lot of us are set in our ways (for example I don’t spring wagons, but do compensate them - well mostly - so someone including sprung w-irons is not a selling point for me as I’d just replace them) and given the post production faff for some fiddly items only for them not to be used is a bit of a waste of resource. Regards Duncan

Thanks Mikkel. I had to stop tinkering with the designs as I’m offering them for sale as scratch builder aids - they’re not complete kits as the purchaser can choose their own w-irons and variations of brake gear and buffers. One of the biggest tinkering points has been caused by the ride height difference between MJT w-irons (which don’t need soldering, so I’ve recommended them in the 3D print instructions to try to make scratch building with these as simple as possible for a beginner) and my usual choice of D&S ones from the EMGS. The solution involves a 20thou plasticard packing piece to fill the inset area of the floor to accommodate the taller MJT w-irons. I hadn’t actually noticed a difference in ride heights in my initial test builds it was @Schooner who spotted it - basically he did what I said, with what I said rather than raid the spares box (which is what I do!) A good friend - the owner of Modelstock - will be listing them on his website. Regards Duncan

Some more wagon rolling off the 3D production line… First off we have an undiagrammed GWR 3 plank wagon with fitched under frame, grease axleboxes and non reversible metal brake shoes: Next, a GWR 3 plank with iron under frames: And finally, a GWR early N6 loco coal wagon, again with grease axle boxes and non reversible brake shoes, but without the later side extension plates: Buffers, brake gear and brake levers for all three by ABS - now available again from https://www.modelstock.co.uk , w-irons from MJT Dart Castings https://www.dartcastings.co.uk/mjt/2299.php More to come! D

I checked; it’s a 1:47 kit - is that close enough for government work at Netherport? D

any layout on this thing would have to be EM - P4 track wouldn’t be level enough and things would fall off… D

You don’t fancy doing a 3 masted schooner as well? D

Steve, Any updates ornew projects to show off? Duncan

Some photos of completed late Victorian GWR narrow gauge wagons. Here is a one plank wagon, early ribbed buffers, wooden brake shoes and curved brake lever, with a red oxide primer. This is an early 2 plank wagon with low sides and no doors. Again, with ribbed buffers, wooden brake shoes and curved brake lever. Both are using ex-D&S etched w irons. Duncan

Demonstrating 3D printing I didn’t stop until about 3.45. I even had to proffer excuses to one group of listeners in order to get my lunch before the excellent catering closed. I suppose demonstrators are doing something right if they don’t get to see the show! Again there was lots of interest (I wish I was getting a commission from Anycubic) ranging from what is it and how do I do it? To more detailed questions about software and specific design issues - as well as what can go wrong and why. It was, from start to finish an excellent day. Well done Dave and Jonathan. Duncan

Dear all, I’ll be demonstrating 3D printing again at the South Hants show at Admiral Lord Nelson’s School Portsmouth this Saturday 18 Nov. Do come along and say hello. Also Modelstock - the new owner of ABS Fourmost - will have on sale there my new range of resin printed GWR scratch builders aids to building 1, and 3 plank wagons as well as N6 loco coal wagons. Regards Duncan

Mine were self adhesive. Here is my printer tea cosy: And this is what it was made of: Regards Duncan

On my photon mono I just used a round file and filed a 1/4 diameter slot at the bottom rear of the printer cover. For the photon Mono X2 it came with a slot and it isn’t as precious about the kid position as the Photon Monos are. I also use a thermostat too (again for reptile tanks, came with the first pad). Duncan

Mine is in the attic which gets cold… I use reptile tank heat pads stuck inside the printer cover. I’ve also added a ‘tea cosy’ made from the rolls of radiator reflective material to keep the heat in. It’s very effective. Regards Duncan

Not able to take in the South Hants MRC show in Portsmouth on the 18 November? It’s usually a cracking one day finescale bonanza…. And just to kill the mood I’ll be demonstrating the dark arts of 3D printing there… Duncan

I’d worry about elbows and indeed belly’s interfering with the siding on the baseboard edge. Original option A still wins for me. D

@Schooner option A for me. But If you are running into the goods loop and running round using the branch platform you seem to end up having to foul the main lines too at the cassette end of BM… Duncan