tractor_37260

Wired up the bogie pick-ups today and was considering where best to cut the strip to get the best spread of light - ARGH - the strip stopped working before I even got it cut or fitted ..********** hopefully in will be replaced FOC. The SA cap will fit nicely in the toilet - on top of the john

Wired up the bogie pick-ups today and was considering where best to cut the strip to get the best spread of light - ARGH - the strip stopped working before I even got it cut or fitted ..********** hopefully in will be replaced FOC. The SA cap will fit nicely in the toilet - on top of the john

Head's Up ....eBay offering 10% discount on 2 purchases for today Tues 18th Dec use code PINECONE at checkout...............it's visable on the listings - don't know if it works or not !

Latest project on the WB Trial fitting ESU DCC LED interior lighting strips to coaches. With some adjustment they should fit fine.. for the MK3A's the strips will require extending with linking wire to light the end vestibules. The brightness is adjustable, they are at max in the photos. It's also possible to control groups of LED's which will be handy for brake coaches etc. I'll be adding a small SA Cap, to ensure no flickering occurs. Look promising so far.......just to sort out the pick-up wiring and the tail light LED''s on the 2F BSO.

Trial fitted an ESU DCC LED lighting strip to one of my MK3A B/Grey TSO's - it's a bit short as supplied, but it can be cut and extended with wires to give lights in the vestibule ? ends. The brightness is adjustable, it's at full brightness in the photos below - I'll also be adding a small SA Cap, looks promising so far.....

Had a fiddle today with these ESU DCC coach lighting boards, they will need reduced in overall length to fit MK2F's, and linked with wires, just need to work out where best to cut, but it looks promising so far. The extra SA cap should fit nicely in at the end of the brake corridor, and hopefully be hidden. More to follow........

Yes you could, but you have to be very carefully any clear varnish coat on the transfer does not overlap onto the edge of the masking tape - the transfer would then lift/tear when you remove the tape - better to try and keep it as close as possible using good lighting when applying...........

Thanks for all the replies. Another question - I've noticed on some recent Bachmann models the adhesive used to stick the glazing in is far stronger than what was used in the past. Will 10% diluted IPA affect/mark the glazing if left in place ? I've read somewhere that if a glazed bodyshell is placed in the freezer overnight, the glazing will come out more easily ? Comments ........ TIA

A thin strip of low tack masking tape can be pre-fitted level on the model and used as a guide, then align the transfer very close to it's top edge, the tape can be removed once your happy with the alignment and the majority of the water is wicked away, or once the transfer is fully dry if it suits. Remove the tape from it's top edge downwards away from the transfer. Pre - applying a small pool of Micro Set with a brush to the area where the transfer is being applied with help it adhere better. HTH

Mail from Hatton's today - they are offering all the 12 day offers over again for today only I think ? includes 37 099 Merl Evans / 37 688 DRS - £114 each............

So what do you use instead ?

Not a lot in it but I managed to get a couple of NON DCC Exec MK2F's with a discount so it's really a wee trial at this stage, but the light strips will also be good for BG's and Buffet coaches / MK3's etc.....

I recently picked up some 99.9% IPA to use for paint stripping. I recall reading that it works best if diluted with some water - question what % ? I've used Phoenix Precision Stripper in the past and it works well, but it's very expensive these days. There's always the older type of brake fluid, DOT 3 or 4 can't remember which was the better, one tended to make some plastics very soft leaving perfect fingerprint imprints on the bare plastic......! Any comments appreciated......... TIA

Thanks - I'll see what I can manage on the first one, will post some photos once done...........

Assume Hornby know what they are doing ? , but using 16V Caps especially with DCC is questionable, 25V minimum is normal practice, the 4 diodes - a bridge rectifier ?

Very interesting. I'm fitting ESU lighting strips with on-board decoders to my NON DCC MK2f's they have full control of groups of LEDs and tail lights that can be set to flash at either end (the NON DCC 2F's as well as having the wheel pick-ups also have the tail light guide assy fittings -nice one Bachmann)For BSO's it should be possible to off set a group of LED's for the corridor and also make the Guards comp separately switched...assuming I've understood your post correctly ?

Aha so 25v should be OK with Lenz that's what I thought. Thanks....

I just had an eBay buyer complain he didn't get the discount maybe a glitch some appear to get it others not...

I recently got some ESU LED coach lighting strips with on-board decoders.They reccommend if adding a capacitor it should be 35v min. I already have some 25v 1000uf caps would have thought these would be OK ? Comments appreciated TIA I think there is a thread on these ESU coach lighting strips but I couldn't find it ? anyone got a link ?

According to the terms of the offer in the post above, postage is not included in the offer, so regardless of what postage option you chose it should still have worked ? but it is only valid on purchases of £20 or more........strange it's not being accepted ? EDIT: Just purchased a 37 and got 10% off . nice one................. The 10% discounts are now showing on the listing pages..............

Interesting, but it's not showing up on the auction listing pages, like the last time ? anybody used this code at checkout and received the 10% discount ?

The main air supply pipe is RED - normally to the right of the draw bar hook (looking front on ) There's normally 2 Main reservoir pipes (Yellow) one each side of the draw bar hook. 2 smaller air control pipes (White) close to the Buffers one each side. Steam heat locos would also have a pipe/collector (Silver) next to the RED main air pipe. Early built locos would also have had a vacuum pipe on the BB - some kept this when converted to air-brakes, some had dual brakes. Most of the Air pipes had taps at the BB end of the pipe - normally handed. A photo's better than a thousand words.................

For the non working destination light at one end - carefully remove the body on this unit and check the light fitting/guide is present in the unit roof above the cab. I had this problem on one of my units - the light guide/fitting was missing from the factory - hence no destination light. Charlie kindly sorted out a replacement - after a wee bit of badgering........

Thank you kindly - that's exactly the reason I modified it............

Do you have Key F8 set to momentary action ? If so it should only work when the key is pushed...it may be set up so it should only works when the units are stationary I'll check my own one later and see how it works... Assume yours worked OK to start with but now it's playing up ?