Yardman

TCS among others do function only chips. Here you put a resistor normally around 100ohms across one function for programming. These decoders have their own address but don't require a motor.

The person that originally started the post was trying to add battery power, but if you have DCC and thus power on tap there's not much point.

I answered this in a previous question on coach lighting which is copied below. The original roof PCB needs to be altered so control of interior lights can be passed to the DCC decoder. The picture shows a class 108, but a Derby Lightweight would be similar. For a start mine aren't battery powered, it's harder to find space for a battery and switch, multiple LED's do start to draw a bit of power. Mine are DCC powered operated by function only decoders, the coaches operate in sets so I can turn all the lights in a set on or off with a single command. The accompanying picture should explain it. I use small SMD (Surface Mount Device) LED's Usually one to a compartment, wired in series sets of three with a current limiting resistor. The picture shows a DMU power car which only required three LED's and one resistor. Marker lights and route indicators required others. This was all driven from the loco sound decoder. The trailer car is similar, but used a Function only decoder with pickups on both bogies. Remember LED's are polarity conscious so install them the right way round. One thing to note. The coach interiors need to be painted to prevent light leaking through the plastic. I give mine a coat of black then a coat of an appropriate interior colour. The interior colour has a bearing on the light colour so experiment. I use “Warm White” which I think most represents incandescent lamps. “White” looks more like modern strip lights and “Yellow” more like oil or gas lamps.

Lots of different designs, use a little imagination and make your own. You have a photo as a starting point.

Have you got photos of both sides, as the brake cylinder could be on the platform on the far side? can you see a brake pipe running round the hopper above the underframe? Is the vehicle just piped? A piped vehicle would (normally) have the pipe ends, before the brake hose painted white.

https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/wagons/oleo22/

Not necessarily, I've had Loksounds repaired buy ESU, they were very cost effective.

Send it back to ESU for repair.

Asphalt, concrete is too noisy.

Both photos taken on 24/04/1965 at Carlisle Citadel. Both tanks on ecs working and pilot duty.

They weren't all removed. Here's two.

It's still alive and well Neil. We keep threatening to set it up at one of our open days, although it is a lot of hard work for us old codgers now.

Here's one we did earlier. Not exactly a car Ferry, it's a Car Float. It is water, it does float and it's G scale. http://a19modelrailwayclub.org/layouts/los-karr-quays/

They are available in 4mm in the Wills point rodding range.

This appears in another topic "Graphite Treatment to Rails."

This is the 60' table used to turn the 9f's at Tyne Dock. Taken 13/06/1964.

I have used artists graphite sticks on several layouts for the last 5 or 6 years. It greatly improves pick up on a DCC layout. I can't say I've noticed any reduction in hauling capacity of locomotives although I don't run excessively long trains. The longest being 12 to 15 vehicles on an American layout. All vehicles have metal wheels. I tend to clean and re-apply to track before an exhibition and don't bother between times. The only problem I have encountered is if too much is applied it can get in insulated joints, fishplates for example. This doesn't affect the DCC but can give enough leakage current to give false triggering of track circuits. Easily remedied with a little isopropyl alcohol. Graphite doesn't attract dust, improves running and I don't have to clean the track.

You need to be more specific. What parts are dead? Switch rails, tail rails from Frog, where?

Give the layout as much cushioning as possible. Trailer suspension is pretty basic and a lot of vibration and bumps are transmitted to the load. Keep speeds as steady as possible.

No, many 9F's had AWS.

If you just connect the LED to the Bachmann connections you shouldn't need an additional resistor. Can't help you with the wire colours as I don't have this model. Someone else may be able to help here. You need to find out if they are from the pickups or the decoder in the power car.

You will have to test for it. A small multi meter set to voltage will tell you which terminals are live in the appropriate direction. You may have to turn a function on in the Decoder to get this. As to which LED, there's many sizes and colours, there's not just one white. Look here for a selection, there are many other suppliers too. Where you intend to locate it may decide the size of LED you need. You can see the LED's bridging the tracks in the roof of the DMU picture. I also used different LED's in the marker lamp and Route indicator positions as well as the destination blind. The ones shown are 0805's, Warm white LED's, 0603's and 0402's are smaller. Remember LED's are polarity conscious and need a series resistor to limit current if you are not using them in the location Bachmann intended. Brush up on your soldering skills if you intend to use SMD LED's, they are really tiny. If you connect them to different Function outputs on the Decoder you can control them as you like. https://www.rapidonline.com/Catalogue/Search?tier=Surface Mount LEDs

Normally only one lamp would be lit at one time so providing this is within Decoder spec. you should be ok, but why not just use LED's? There will be resistors built into the PCB for this purpose. I wouldn't attemt to bring track voltage up to the lights, back feed a Decoder with track supply and its toast as could other LED's on board. Remember it's a square wave AC at somewhere arround 14-16 volts on the track. Usually I just remove any onboard lighting including PCB's and install my own. This photo is a DMU, but the situation is the same. It depends how far you feel comfortable in going. LED's are cheap and easy to get.

It's designed to work with SMD LED's. Be careful the decoder may not be able to supply enough current for a lamp. If there are three terminals it is probably for a Bi colour LED to give directional lighting. a common return (usually +) and two negative feeds for each LED.

The frog is dead as it comes on the New bullhead points and is fairly short. If you want to provide pickup throughout the frog area you wire the frog (there is a wire built in under the frog) to a switch connected to the throwbar. It isn't strictly necessary as the frog is so short, but for short locos is does provide un-interupted power throughout the turnout. Which is what Foden requested originally.