Yardman

Try this. https://www.google.com/search?q=grass+grid&client=firefox-b-d&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=ifqx1rhNiHMJEM%3A%2CVTQ6uwHnGEV3LM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kSnsO4az3iZ92lZX2yJU1bMvE6GKg&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiI47ff0MXjAhV8QRUIHXDHDxwQ9QEwAHoECAkQBg#imgrc=ifqx1rhNiHMJEM:

Pheonix to varnish too.

Yes it does and featured in our open day last year. Unfortunately due to the reduced size of our premises, we can only bring the loyout out on special occations. Mike scott was responsible for a lot of the buildings on the layout.

My G scale S4. I have other Alco's in HO.

Try KD's "Greasem". It's a graphite powder and dosen't attract dust. availablr here as well as other places. https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/kadee-231-greas-em-coupler-grease/

Any chance of some of these now?

The South Pelaw boys can get their own Cemflos Porcy, mine might appear on my own layout once I get the couplers and wheels changed and a bit of weathering. They look good though.

Mine have arrived. This one included.

Yes you can make it up with different cutoffs and should be possible to have servo operation of the reversing gear, but it would be fiddly in 4mm and is it really worth the extra complexity. Most people would never notice it. This is the completed B1.

Most model valve gear's are a poor Most model valve gear's are a poor representation of the real thing. Comet do kits for various locomotives that could possibly adapted to your use. These are what I adapted for a Hornby B1.

Our family has seven cars, four of them are left hand drive. It's not a problem.

You only need two wires for an elctromagnet.

The phosfor bronze clip that holds the brush in stays, that's the one you make connection to, but the barbed steel one that earths the motor to the frame goes.

For DCC make sure the lower motor clip is removed so the motor is NOT earthed to the frame, then the grey and Orange wires go to the motor and the black and red wires go to the trucks and the frame. If you're not happy soldering, 1/4" spade connectors will joint to the trucks and the motor wires can be clamped under the phosfor bronze brush holders. A suitable mounting point needs to be found for the other pick up wire, but it can be clamped between motor insulator and frame. just be sure there is no shorting between orange/grey motor wires and black/red pick up wires or the decoder will be toast.

Best to ditch the clips anyway and solder wires direct to the trucks.

I don't like Peco trak rubbers. They tend to leave rubber dust down the back of point blades.

Remove it with Wet & Dry. No courser than 600 grit.

White is just steam/water vapor. Grey/black is when the fireman is firing it and smoke/coal dust is in the partially burnt exhaust.

As one “enthusiast" told me on seeing my train load of tractors at an exhibition , “I think you'll find the Fordson Power Major was only made in blue”. To which I replied “If the only thing you can find wrong with my layout is the colour of one Tractor I think I've won”.

Mainly vehicles or light machinery or farm equipment. Remember lowfits are only 12ton capacity, so heavy machinery, steel plate etc could exceed the wagon capacity. Steel plate tended to be carried in plate wagons, not only for the weight, but the load was less likely to try and break out the ends of the wagon with a steel bodied wagon.

NCE do what they call a Smart booster that adds more capability to your Power Cab as well as more current. An easy and cheap upgrade. that gives you up to 5 Amps and up to 6 cabs. The SB5 is available in the UK. Having said that I have operated dual motor G scale locomotives using just a Power Cab. https://ncedcc.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/200913385-SB5-Smartbooster-for-Powercab

I used an angle grinder to make my own in G scale.

I initially removed the over-centre springs, but I have recently re-installed them. I found after a few years of operation the servo gears get "run-in" allowing the servo to run back if power is only applied for a short time. Mine are set up this way to reduce power draw with a large number of servos. The wire size isn't really critical and a lot depends on how your servos are mounted to the turnout, baseboard thickness etc. I would experiment with a few wire sizes to find what best works for you. 24 swg is 0.022" or 0.559mm.

24swg piano wire. I've been operating turnout servos with this for over 5 years without problem.

I am building my new layout using Peco Bullhead track as you describe. I do have section breaks as the track will be track circuited. The point frogs are wired through microswitches. Points are servo operated. I do not recommend removing the over centre springs as I have found through experience the servos can have some run back if only powered for a second or so. Especially after operation over a length of time (over 5 years in my case). I suspect the servo gears get run in and reduce gear drag. I too have glued the track down using PVA without problems. I don't recommend soldering up fishplates, allow for expansion and put bonding wires across fishplates if necessary.