yelrow

Olddudders, high, my location, is also, France, at 71130, near Bourbon lancey, john

Hi, having just achieved this with The Hornby Elite, a controller, much disparaged, i thought it worth a pat on the back. The instructions are clear and easy. You have to go to operating mode. My loco, an MTH, HO, all singing all dancing, sound even works on DC, had to be reset to Factory specifications. The result was a total success, back to 0003, and now perfect. Well Done Hornby. john

when we had our carpets fitted the 2 men each had stanley knives. After every few cuts they would sharpen blade, with little sharpening stones in their pockets. I asked them how often they changed their blades. We have use these for 4 weeks, was the reply, we are only supplied, so many a year, and they sharpen very simply. john

What a superb loco great sound, cab chatter, flashing lights and horn, for level crossings. Handbook, is only 39 pages, and most of this is about advanced programming and sound changes. Have immediately started, looking to find others, hopefully in europe. Have no need to change from CV3, as none of my existing ones, carry that number. Works fine on Hornby, Railmaster, Elite and Select. Well chuffed. john

peter, thanks., from reading posts you appear very content with yours. john

Hi, Peter, its Hornbys own, but fully compliant etc, and about £240 new. Loco, , . was bought new on 28th july, (shop early, for xmas) in my family , so may be ok on prog track, but apparently needs more current than normal prog track. I would know more, if allowed to read all relevant instructions, that have been locked away with loco. Think the only other prob may be getting all the 29 functions. happy days. john

My lady wife with help from my US based son, has just bought me a MTH GE ES44AC loco with pro sound 3 for xmas. Read this thread, with interest. It says on MTH site that you can use prog track, but you may need a booster. I have an Elite, also Railmaster. Am i right in assuming that Elite will happily run this loco. john

Kevin, i used a Hobbies Treadle fretsaw, for years, but now obselete. You can i belive find the odd saw, with foot control, like a sewing machine. Regarding blades, you fix, as you indicated, but you will need e few, as the motorised saws are not as forgiving, as the treadle ones. I have a Scheppach, a chinese copy machine, and a third unknown make. I do think you get what you pay for. john

look at the Scheppach one. Cheap scroll saws have a vibration problem. Made all my kids farms and garages on a scrollsaw, good fun. john

Good LITTLE saw, but with no depth adjustment. Twill be fine if you respect its limitations. Well engineeered.. john

for goodness sake, its not rocket science to keep the posts on here to Bargains, and where they are and what they cost. Thats all we need to read. Whether we buy them, is up to us.. john

I am confused by the Hornby comment .My Rolling road, with added rollers, runs everything from Rivarossi Big Boy, to my Hornby Dublo 2 rail locos I have some 100 locos, including DCC, and none refuse so far to run. Please clarify. john

The poster was asking for places in london. Dont think Doncaster would suit. john

Look at Janes trains in Tooting. john

Hi, having acquired 3 locos, wish to run them. Has anyone any spare Z gauge track, i can buy. thanks. john

For goodness sake, the bargain hunters thread was excellent. If it aint broke, why not leave it as was. john

the whole idea of a Bargain Hunter Thread is/ was to alert guys like me, who live in france, to Bargains, preferably rail ones, that i have missed, on line, To that end the previous thread was excellent. I am hopeful that this new one, will do just that. Off topic, is the thorn in the side of all forums, and others that i was on, have brought in more moderators than you can throw a stick at. I would like to think that this overkill approach, will not start to apply on this forum, else the departure rate will match that of the others. john

Hi, those flexi ebay things look expensive and un necessary. What i do, is screw down flexi rail where i want the curve. Then overlay the next, and mark with a pencil on the rail, where to cut. Cut one end, and join. Screw down that rail, and repeat for next. Much better if joints staggered. . Thats how i did my helix. john

Surely the whole idea of modelling of any sort is to start from scratch. That being the case, i think you should build your own baseboard. There is a long thread on here from a guy. who was ripped off having paid upfront for a baseboard. Plywood cut to size from a local supplier, and a few lengths of 2x1, screwed together, really, should not be beyond most people, and if you are battening to the walls for example, you build, as you go along. Far more satisfaction, this way, than some guy delivering it ready made. Not only that, layouts more often than not, become extended, and provision, can be built in for that event. It really, is not more than a mornings work to produce. If you need legs, then, these days you can buy, metal sawhorses, which adjust to many heights, and 2 of these would suffice. Also, provide support, if you are attaching to a wall. It really aint rocket science. john

As a guy, who has, Morley, Guagemaster, H&M Duettes, and Clippers, i find them all excellent. Because of the 2 Hand held controllers, supplied free, with Morley, this is particularly good value, with 5 year warranty. On the other hand, Guagemaster, are guaranteed for life. I have 7 duettes, and 5 clippers, and you can still pick them up on ebay for about £20. john

Anotheruser, hi, my advice would be do Not fix down any track for first few weeks. You will look to make changes, we all do, and the last thing you want to do is to have to prise up pins etc. I screw down my point motors, and point itself, so it changes ok, but you will be surprised how many little changes you make before totally happy. I never make a plan, just work out how many loops i can get on baseboard, and then lay track, from the middle out. I have 7 running loops, all connected via points. john

interesting post this. I have never used pins. Always use tiny brass screws, having pre drilled a hole . I am one of those who constantly changes layout, and have found this the best way of making sure it moves easily. john

Location, location, location. I live in the middle of rural france, the nearest model shop, 60 miles away. By the time i have been to it and back, not only have i paid the full price, but a lot more, if you count the fuel. Buy it from hattons, 20% saved, plus nominal postage. Thats the case for the defence. john

Thanks john

thanks, been worried that there would be a conflict. If i dont want anything fancy, other than to run trains, presume white model, is good enough. john