JimFin

DCC does not require any sections of track to be isolated, other than at the frog of electrofrog points, so a lot less than DC.

Which Dynamis are you using? I have a similar problem with the current Ultra model but no problem with the older original. As I have a way round it, afraid I have never followed up but a question to Bachmann support may help resolve. This is the CV table from the Bachmann decoder leaflet -

Did exactly using and old mecanno motor and stuck a loco decoder on the back of it so it now runs as loco 55. Used the "spare" lighting function for some yard lights.

63cm springs to mind but I cannot remember what the source of that was

Been able to make a start at terra forming (at last), seem to have been diverted to the traverser, rewiring, installing uncoupling ramps and setting up RocRail and WiFi. Happily time for some "proper" modelling. "Draft" of the platform and canopy. Cement transfer facility. General view of 1st baseboard.

Think in this instance, the many are right - a lot of it is about the ergonomics of how the controller fits in your hand assuming you go for a hand held. Throttle knobs / joysticks / touchscreen really do come down to personal preference. ( I have a theory you can guess the age of the operator by which they prefer!) There are a few specialist DCC dealers who take demonstration set ups around shows and it would be worth trying a few in your hand to help decide. For the layout you have described, pretty well any mainstream system would work. In general - that wont work. Not readily - but - if you used an ESU Servo Pilot accessory controller, it will work servos both digital and analogue. By hard wiring your slide switch to the analogue pins, it will run servos for points, signals or whatever you like quite separate from the rest of your control system. Decide and design how these are to be controlled early on. i.e. One on/off switch for the lot or individual control for different buildings which implies either a separate 12v circuit or accessory decoders to run them. If the later, you really need a handset that runs both locos and accessories - unless - I have a turntable on my layout and the motor is driven by a fixed loco decoder so in my case, the turntable is loco 55 and I have used the lighting function from the decoder to operate platform and station building lights. Overall many different options for you - I think the way forward may be to decide a budget, try out as many as you can and go for the one which offers the best balance of form and function for your needs.

Stock boxes are a neat idea. Depending on what you are ordering, I believe Blackwoods may be dropping the Sommerfeld range from their stock and are having a sale at the moment which sent me to seek out alternatives and found that the Sommerfeldt online shop was generally similar/cheaper than Blackwells even with the sale discount and allowing for postage.

Have they installed an SMD for cab illumination as well?

Just wonder before deciding on a laser cutter, have you considered all the options? Given the nature of what you are describing cutting, balsa and I assume thin ply for N gauge, have you considered a Cricut Maker or similar which will cut these items (up to 2.4mm) with a bed size up to 12 X 24 inch at a fraction of the cost of a laser? e.g.

Glad you enjoyed it Simon, for me, it was a great weekend. I need to do a few maintenance jobs on 1913 as Halifax was the last show for it this year. A couple of sections of track at the baseboard joins need attention and as its all a learning curve, I have fitted a different design of protector for 2013 in transit and will retrofit that to 1913. The other "behind the scenes" item, I need to improve is the carry handles on the crates the layout is transported and stored in. Wish you all the best with Swiss steam traction - an interesting modelling project.

How about - scan the sheet, print it at 58% (87 to 150) on decal paper?

If you have access to printer, easy enough to make some water slide decals - https://mrdecalpaper.com/collections/popular-decal-papers/products/clear-inkjet-waterslide-decal-paper

Having seen and spoken to Rob Pulham demonstrating his machine, I was very impressed with the results but really felt I could not take on another learning curve as I am still busy working out how to get the best out of my 3d printer - but...... SWMBO had been musing the same for her quilting projects and after a brief and fairly one sided conversation, I discovered that a Cricut Maker had been ordered for us! Not done any railway projects so far but initial impressions are very favourable. Extremely simple to get working, load the software, plug it in and off it went. (Windows 10 laptop). They are / have addressed the concern about internet connection as a beta version of the software on the desktop is available and it seems fine. Very impressed with the rotary cutting blade which engages with a gear drive on the Maker to move it clock and counterclockwise as it cuts very smooth curves. It was bought with a few additions including 12 X 24 mat which would be more than enough for the sort of projects I have in mind. Only condition from SWMBO is that I use my own cutters and mats. Looked at the other material available off the shelf in Hobbycraft which included Cricut packs of 2mm MDF which I must assume it is capable of cutting. Just wonder how it would fare in comparison with a laser cutter? As and when I progress some projects, will share with you.

What a fantastic trip, thanks for sharing

Bit of bad news - maybe as well you went on the trip now, Swiss Rail Forums are reporting that RhB Ge 6/6 I (Baby Croc.) 415 has suffered a significant failure.

Think we had the same guy on board last year, he was great pointing out when there were good spots for photos and points of interest. Annoying that those orange things keep spoiling perfectly good photos....

Well that was a bit of a chew but a 1200mm traverser module now complete with capacity for 1100mm trains over 6 tracks. Had to be designed to fit under the scenery and be demountable as it overlaps baseboard joints. Rebuilt the underframe of the centre baseboard so that the traverser turned through 90 degrees stows under the station for transporting. Track alignment is by bolts into 3d printed posts which also hold drop in protectors as tracks will be over free space when extended. Needed a ramp with 2 layers of cork to get the final alignment right but now running smoothly across all roads. Put me somewhat behind plan, as has a couple of weeks looking after the grandchildren, out with Neuburg 1913 to Halifax show this weekend and then be able to progress with this. Undecided about the headshunt or running a line into the second traverser track yet but these would be easy enough to add later, just glad to have got this up an working.

Can you help with a bit more detail of what you are after - they may be hens teeth or rocking horse poo depending on what you are after. RTR Swiss rail cars covers a multitude of standard and narrow gauge options but not so many on the narrow gauge such as MoB. Continental N gauge is 1:160 scale and runs on 9mm track as standard gauge. Nm as near to prototype remains 1:160 but runs on 6.5mm (z gauge) track. Kato and some others are promoting a hybrid at 1:150 scale with narrow gauge outline models but running on 9mm track but no railcars in this scale that I am aware of yet. The Lemaco Nm items are great but eye wateringly expensive - https://www.ebay.fr/itm/273931274032

IF - you are feeling brave, its worth adding a coat of this - https://www.diy.com/departments/ronseal-one-coat-clear-matt-stain-guard-clear-coat-0-75l/1212790_BQ.prd (other retailers are available!) . I have found it does protect against marking quite well and has no effect on the paper, just a tiny fraction darker shade as it is applied.

???? https://www.petersspares.com/gaugemaster-gmc-wm4-wall-mounted-transformer-12v-dc-smooth-regulated.ir

Article dated 22/8/2019 - https://www.lenz-elektronik.de/digitalplus-tauschen.php

Best solution I have come up with so far is to use 3M repositionable spray adhesive which does cure and become permanent eventually but gives you the ability to adjust while fitting. Does not seem to wet the paper in the same way as "conventional" adhesive. I have also been recommended to try Frisk mounting spray, have bought some but not used it yet.

I have been have lots of learning on that front as well. Given up with commercial and having a go at printing my own.