JimFin

This link was previously posted by PaulRHB and I found it useful, have a look at the prototype plans and see what you fancy, your proposal is not far from quite a number of them. http://www.sporenplan.nl/ click on sporenplan (in red text) near the top left of the screen, click on switzerland on the map (CH), click on RhB over on the right of the Swiss map. That will give you a diagramatic of all the stations. Using Google Street (taken from a flat car in front of the train!) will also give you a chance to explore the Albula line from the comfort of home. https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@46.6751282,9.6806857,2a,75y,66.11h,84.74t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1s0dXa3bxPRu5-pS2nMjcAQQ!2e0!6s%2F%2Fgeo2.ggpht.com%2Fcbk%3Fpanoid%3D0dXa3bxPRu5-pS2nMjcAQQ%26output%3Dthumbnail%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26thumb%3D2%26w%3D203%26h%3D100%26yaw%3D37.98369%26pitch%3D0%26thumbfov%3D100!7i13312!8i6656?hl=en-GB As a shameless plug, if you are not a member, you might want to join the Swiss Railway Society, their quarterly magazine is great and at £20 per year excellent value. https://swissrailsoc.org.uk/ Do share what you decide on!

There you go. Might want to make it a bit deeper for bundled cables. Jims cable tie bracket.stl

Good way to get a rough scrub effect is to use a hanging basket liner. Choose on of the fibre covered cellophane backed ones. Cut shapes to fit the terrain and glue down. Gives a very good base, just add a few bushes and clump foliage. Its used round the field edge and by the mill buildings and canal on this N gauge.

And one more! I 3d printed some of these, screw fix the red base to the baseboard, place the cables in place and slide the clip through. If you need to add/remove, pull the clip back, adjust the cables and re-clip.

This problem is reducing significantly as more lights move from incandescent/flourescent to LED/SMD as LED/SMD emit on specific frequencies well away form IR rather than all the stray radiation from older lights.

And on with the rock face which many folk at exhibitions have asked about, to the extent I take an off cut of the Heki rock foil with me to let them touch and feel! I buy it in large sheets, 800mm X 300mm, hold it against the face to be covered and use a sharpie to mark on the back a rough cut line. Cuts easily with domestic scissors, then held in place while a bead from a hot glue gun is applied along about 75mm of the edge of the scenery to be covered. I press it into place with an old engineers hammer which acts as a heat sink to help the glue adhere, about 30 seconds. During this time the foil becomes very soft and can be moulded into shape with the hammer head. If you have not worked it out - DONT touch the foil during this process its really really hot. Here is idea of the outcome, this has used most of 1 sheet in 2 parts.

No - I do mean 5Ghz using Android and NetGear router rather than 5th gen phone.

I hope my decision to use a 5g router and private network with Android controllers works out......

I would agree with that, making a traverser was a PITA to get the alignment and smooth running - happy to let someone with a proven jig take the hassle. Saw a guy on e-bay making them but I have an aversion to MDF as I have had bad experience of it getting damp and distorting.

Done that with some Swiss buildings, HO down to N and it largely works. Need to be careful with fine detail e.g. window mullions and even wall thickness to ensure they translate with a simple % reduction. Needs a little tweek occasionally. Would expect the same is treu scaling up, some detail may appear a little course and need to be refined. Having adjusted in the slicer, its worth checking the layer view to make sure you get all the detail you expect and may need to adjust the model before checking again. HOm (1913) Nm (Current)

For that specific issue, you could consider using ESU Servo Pilot accessory controllers and have servo operated points (and signals?). The Servo Pilot allows hard wiring of switches for DC operation via a mimic board or whatever method you choose but equally, maybe at a later date, be converted to DCC by simply plugging in the DCC controller. I have used these devices successfully in both configurations.

Some more progress to share, 2 layers of plaster bandage and a skim with a plaster filler mixed with poster paints. Means that any little chips later on do not stick out like a sore thumb. Positioned the structures and temp backscene to check the overall look and quite satisfied. The traverser dimension was just right for the ravine!

Think it would look better if you can, prototype seems to be same (ish) height as coaching stock.

I believe that is correct. Some photos including signals here - http://disused-stations.org.uk/r/richmond/index1.shtml Here is an excuse for an interesting loco visiting!

Lovely work, here is a picture of the model in Richmondshire Museum. Here is a copy of the LNER track plans and you can see the signals on these. Track Plans.pdf The museum is closed to the public during the winter months but there are almost always folk working on maintenance and making new displays during that time. Working groups are usually in on a Tuesday and if you just wanted to see the model and did not mind avoiding wet paint and folk working, you would be welcome on a Tuesday if you made arrangements in advance. E-mail admin@richmondshiremuseum.org.uk and mention that Jim said to contact them.

You have an issue there - the Ultra roster limit is 30 locos, look for an addendum slip to correct the instruction manual which show 40. Ultra is compatible with the RocRail software as it is essentially a re-badged ESU Navigator. I have mine working with RocRail on a laptop and wireless to an android tablet. The WiFi is more robust than the infra red of the Dynamis and does not demand line of sight. Having said that, I do like the ergonomics of the Dynamis handset and get along quite happily with it.

John, been researching this issue as well and not come up with anything less than 0.5mm (Sommerfeldt proffi and Veismann) in HO. 0.4 in N but the droppers and length are too small to be useful. I was interested to see that the "proto87" use 0.025" dia Phosphor Bronze wire which equates (near enough) to 6.5mm. That led me to look at the section of the prototype wire and it seems to be based on a 107mm cross section and is not a true circular cross section but shaped to be gripped by the droppers as per - So - on that basis the visual diameter is 12.3mm which at 1/87 scale would be 0.14mm which is 35swg but not really practical for my purposes. I am probably going to settle on the 0.5mm blackened to reduce the visual impact but will be keeping an eye on this post for anything else coming to light.

A possible solution is to use the type of PP9 which recharge via a USB cable. If the internal space in the throttle allows, keep the battery connected to the cable, cut a hole through the battery cover to allow the USB cable to pass and use an external power bank if needed. Keep the power banks charged behind the layout and plug in if required. I have those as standby for the android tablets I use as handheld controllers.

Hi Craig - large chalet is scratch built, foamboard ground floor, scribed and stained balsa for the first and second floors, cardboard roof with Redutx tiles, balconies, windows and doors are 3d printed and stained balsa strip with foam and flock to create the flower effect. Its a "modernised duplicate of the version on the 1913 layout.

Mesh work all completed, now on with the modroc.

I am short of ideas after that. I am fairly convinced that for some reason the decoder and controller are not communicating. CV 8 should always read the manufacturer - 151 as you say and CV29 would not accept a value of 255. At this point, I would be asking a pal if I could check it with his controller (or via a club if you are a member) beyond that, in Manchester, perhaps a chat and visit to The Locoshed or similar might be in order.

A good alternative is artists matt medium acrylic 50/50 with water. Put the ballast down and dribble the mix on, similar method to PVA but the matt medium takes a few days to dry and when it does, remains slightly plastic, you can make some adjustments if required as opposed to PVA which becomes rock hard.

The code 255 usually means the software can't "see" a decoder and will generally neither read or write to it so the command CV=8 will simply not get to the decoder. 2 suggestions, a) try the same process on your programming track rather maintrack b) give the wheels / pick ups a good clean as there may be enough grime to prevent a clean signal.

I used Gorilla wood glue, peco flexi onto cork. Weighted down overnight. Dries transparent.

There is a capability to do what you want on this site http://app.selva3d.com/transform but it is very limited. Works well with logo's and very simple images but dont expect too much off it. What sort of photo do you have in mind? One of the biggest issues may be to edit out all the "background" before you attempt to convert.