JimFin

Its looking very good, nice control panel, its one of those jobs you just have to work through I am afraid. If you have not already, I suggest you keep a book with the wiring diagram and colour codes of the wires, makes troubleshooting down the road a lot easier. Once it it all complete and fully working, some spiral wrap binding for the wire bundles retaining them back to the woodwork is worthwhile to prevent wires being accidentally caught or pulled when the layout is being moved about or you are working underneath.

I have looked at it too and it would not print well on an FDM printer as the raised lip and rivet detail on both sides means the side next to the bed on the FDM printer would be very grainy at best as there would have to be a support layer over the whole model to raise it. Looking at it, should the front rivet be overlapping the lip as it does? Hope it comes out to your satisfaction from Shapeways but I think this one is best from an SDL printer, as shown by monkeysarefun or plasticard.

Remco has put a lot on his You Tube channel - https://www.youtube.com/user/REOSRailway/videos

Continuing to be not happy with the platform, made me realise, I was not happy with the station building either! It was not an RhB prototype and I knew what I wanted 2013 to look like so - 1913 had to be re-worked. I am please with the result (3D printed) as have been able to produce both version simultaneously. This is how 1913 now looks.

In deciding to model steel based structures, you probable need to choose an SLA printer as the FDM type will leave you with more clearly visible layer lines which need post production sanding to remove. On something like an HO steel hopper, the sheet between the frames would be a nightmare, if not impractical to get a reasonable finish. I would also raise the question though, why would you want to print this? Is it actually the best process and material for your subject? As has been noted, you can do wonders in plasticard with the right approach - on the other hand the thread on Anycubic Photon printing shows what can be done (underframes on P1) and once set up, you can knock out enough for a complete rake. There are pros and cons but do not fall into the trap of thinking 3D printing is the modellers silver bullet. The other factor to consider beyond the printer, is what material you are going to print with as this is an area of increasing choice and complexity which impacts your question re wall thickness e.g. PLA has many variants including engineering grade which will produce different structural outcomes. 3D printing is one area where research before jumping in is recommended, including using/developing your 3D modelling skills as well! Wish you all the best and am sure you will find lots of advice and help on this forum.

Never mind the cakebox, see what you can do on an A3 sheet in HOm

Too far south for me.

I thought it was the case but just checked my own, the wheels are on splines on the axle and you re-gauge simply by increasing the back to back measure. There is no difference in the wheelsets HOe or HOm. Use a small screwdriver between the back of the wheel and the chassis, twist until you have about 10.5mm back to back. The motion gear is unaffected as it is splined to the outer end of the axle. You can see the splines clearly on the motion axle which does not have a wheel. Just be gentle but if you go a bit too far, just ease it back in. If you do find you need spares, try Michael at Marno Ltd as he has been very helpful to me.

I would vote for getting the wiring progressed and a train running as you may well have to do some fetteling with the track before laying any more. If you have a steam outline G 4/5 use that as test mule, the 8 coupled wheels will show up any issue or defect far more glaringly that a modern electric. If it runs OK try a Tm 2/2 tractor as they are the next most fussy unit.

You could try "Metre Gauge Railways in South and East Switzerland" by John Marshall - it was a 1974 print but still fairly easily available via Amazon and other places.

Look superb in my opinion - its a fascinating period with the rapid switch to hydro power and motive power developments. I have a lovely Ferro Suise / Joe Works G4/5 that would compliment them beautifully - but waiting for a new valve link to be etched, they are VERY fragile, fractured in the middle of the crankpin hole.

They were being used on the Chur - Arosa line until it was Allegrified.

I think its a combination of angle and lump of course track the Allegra is sitting on. Goods shed aperture is 13.2mm tall which equates to 1.98m and would be about right. However - checking has made me spot an error, I have measured the door height from the stone plinth BUT looking closely, the wooden goods platforms are actually slightly taller than the stone plinth and the foot of the door is at the level on the platform. This means the door needs to be raised by the depth of the platform - https://www.google.com/maps/@46.6502446,9.723315,2a,28.8y,26.62h,72.91t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sdmWEXbEaQ9io87k1auOUOQ!2e0!7i13312!8i6656 looking back at the goods door you will see what I mean. The personnel door apertures have a different proportion being a bit narrower and taller as the doors have fanlights above so they are OK, as are the upper floor windows, 27.75mm up which is 4.16m. Maybe I should send you a 2nd draft to "proof read" !

Playing with a CAD design I am working on for HOm - printed a copy at 58% to see how the detail would hold up - At this stage just a rough prototype but I do think it has some potential alongside the Kato Allegra.

Love that place, regards to Ann. Tip - there is a bigger choice of dishes on their German menu than the English menu! Apparently there is an exhibition in a shop in Filisur about the proposed “Landwasser Project”. It involves building a historic railway centre and sheds for historic stock at Surava. A shuttle train between Filisur, Alvaneu and Surava. Also turning the area beneath the Landwasser Viaduct into a tourist area. Might be worth a visit if you had time.

Been busy with other things recently and 2013 had to take a back seat but able to make some progress now. Buildings that sit in front of the backscene are largely complete and I am happy with the evolving look. Not sure about station island platform however, it kind of overpowers the foreground, need to rethink that aspect.

I think we are forgetting some basics when it come to 3D printing and surrounding issues - main one being horses for courses. Fusion360 and many of these packages are for professional use and do require a fair effort in learning the skills to use them for anything beyond basics - but there are good basic packages such as Tinkercad https://www.tinkercad.com/ where I think you could design your rectangle very quickly and develop some skills to produce reasonable results for basic shapes - the trick is then how to build the model you want out of geometric shapes. Its not necessarily the software complexity, its the model you are designing. So - a switch box is quite easy, Rectangles, triangles and not much more. Shown in N, HO, O and G scales. If you want to model the compound curves on the front of a modern locomotive - you probably need a lot of training and skill development! Equally - why spend a huge effort in designing and printing items where there are simpler solutions or better commercial components to use IN CONJUNCTION with 3D printing. Taking model buildings for an example, complex tile textures and shapes take a lot of effort to both design and print. In this instance products from the range such as Redutex http://tienda.redutex.com/en/12-textures (and I am sure other similar suppliers) will be superior to any home produced item. Its also very easy to cut to shape with a pair of scissors and stick on as it is self adhesive. These view of a 3D printed Swiss chapel show how Tinkercad can create some complex shapes, including the onion belfry but then using other more appropriate techniques where appropriate. . On that subject, one bit of a correction but important one, PLA is simply one kind of material you can use in a Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) printer- and honestly Graham1960, not being pedantic - but one of the current and future developments is the range of material you can use in FDM printers. The chapel above had the walls printed with "Layabrick" which is a composite of ground chalk and PLA which gives a lovely texture for walls and stonework, the windows and doors use Woodfilament which again is a composite of 20% wood fibre and PLA but gives a lovely grained texture that can be stained rather than painted. I have even used Carbon Fibre composite on a snow plough blade. I think future materials designed for FDM printers will improve the print resolution limits for a hobby printer as the chemical structures and thermal responsiveness improves. Generally I am a bit concerned that on the subject of 3D printing - and laser cutting - we are in danger of getting hung up on single tool solutions when we would be better looking hard at the range of options available and combining tools and materials best suited for the job. It reminds me of NASA spending millions on developing a pen to operate in zero gravity when the Russian solution was to use a pencil. Is it worth spending a lot of time and effort to design and 3D print a buffer when machined brass ones have been around for as long as modelling and will almost certainly look - and perform - better. I wish Rovex every success with his venture as I do think there is a market place for components others cannot readily produce themselves, but do hope he will address one of my concerns with Shapeways and that is is to publish photographs of the finished models not just a CAD representation.

Believe they have not released either yet.

Its a planned release - https://www.te-miniatur-shop.de/epages/79318808.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/79318808/Categories/Gebaeude/Bahngebäude/Spur_N

If you give Michael all the part numbers you want, he will probably order for you. confirms price and charges postage at cost.

Michael at Marno has been very helpful to me with Bemo parts and would have no hesitation in recommending him should you go that direction.

Glad you are finding the same sort of issues that I have in pushing the limit of FDM printing in terms of resolution of fine detail. Makes me feel better! After many experiments, I concluded that there are some tasks very well suited to FDM and others that are not, potentially resin printing for side frames and detail or use of cast resin or whitemetal axle boxes and turned metal buffers. Vehicle roofs and surfaces which in real life are smooth metallic just don't print that well in my experience and do not show up well beside an injection moulded or cast / brass model. In my journey through printing so far, its been a lesson in choosing the most appropriate method and material for different parts of the model to get the best overall result.

Looking good, like that you are building the railway into the terrain.

Origami with modules! Super idea

Your doooooomed.