Pegleg90

Hi Lewis, Thanks for the info. Think its pretty safe to say you have raised the bar of prototypical workings in 4mm with the class 66 to new dizzying heights! Any plans to add PH Designs' photo etched wing mirrors? The 60 looks like its coming along nicely as well! Got one myself hiding some where! really must pull it out and get repaired! Regards Ali

Hi Lewis, Nice work there! like the idea of modifying the HTA wagons. how did the coupling loop go on the 66? cheers Ali

Hello, After seeing Mick's post on his PFA's and the white metal buffers he's used I scrapped the plan of priming the first wagon today so i can source the buffers. Instead thought I'd have a go at weathering a wagon or 2 using DCC Concepts weathering powders that I bought what seems ages ago. I have the pack containing, white, Light & dark grey and Black. For a first time don't think they are too bad, just pretty white now! whoops! Think the OBA has come out looking like its worked a clay train! Will try and tone it down with some black. The MFA is a bit more realistic but still, first attempt! On the PFA Front I ordered from coupling hooks from Lanarkshire models and supplies, will upload a photo when i've fitted them. Thanks Ali

Hi Mick, Those PFA's look brilliant! Look forward to seeing them progress! Those white metal (?) buffers look 10x better than the modules ones on the headstock, where did you get them from? Glad I didn't start priming mine yesterday now! Regards Ali

Nice work on the 2 Helixes, what radius' are you using for them?

Nice lights there jack! Really got to get myself a RHTT set I think and do some lights on it! They look really good! Bachmann's MPV modules would be a good one as well for the lights!

Hi Pete, Please forgive my thickness, think I've read too many articles on this, is this basically halfords plastic primer? thanks Ali

Thanks for the comments and encouragement! Quick update as haven't done too much of late. I've started the second PFA this time using Alan Gibsons wheels (4007). I decided to paint them prior to assembly. Happened to be in my local model shop (you can easily get a crick in the neck looking up in there!) and asked about etching primer, they had the Rail Match tin in there so bought one of them as well as a suitable thinners. Had a go earlier today and was surprised to find the primer tin had its own brush in it. Decided to put a small amount into a container and thin slightly as had been recommended to me (put a little too much thinner in i think), but it did apply to the test bit! Will try to get round to painting it tomorrow at the earliest. Should i use the primer straight from the tin then use the thinners to clean the brush? For the cambrian flats I'm thinking of changing the couplings to NEM pickets rather than the glued on tension lock as the height is not correct. Any advise on the etching primer will be much appreciated. Thanks Ali

Hi Jack, Pete, thanks for the details. I've made some headway with this using tension lock coupling for now - possibly kadee's in the future - way into the future. I've uploaded a new photos on the link in my signature. Thanks Ali

Hi, My first Topic! I thought I'd upload a few shots of my work so far showing the good steps and a few newby errors! I've been making Cambrian's YSA/Salmon Wagons, got 1 nearly finished (bit more painting to do), 2 under construction (smaller detailing parts) and one still to start! Aiming to make at least 2 (probably 3) into YKA Osprey wagons in the future. I've been working more on DC Kits' PFA with the aim of using them behind my DRS fleet. Quite looking forward to getting these running with their half height containers. Purchased 10 of C-Rails 20ft Containers (undecorated) to go with them! Had a slight issue in building as I forgot to recess the bearings into the holes so found the 2 chassis sides were out slightly which affected the top etching, bulkheads and break handle etching - sorted for the next 7 when i get to them though! For couplings I'm going to use standard tension locks in a NEM Pocket. I've been contemplating using Kadee couplers but will wait until I have a proper layout and decided how to get over the class 66's and their front skirts. I've used Symoba NEM pockets (Standard size - sourced from DCC Supplies) on this one which has meant cutting the front bulkheads out to suit. Think I'll use the short ones in the future. Had to pack them out using 2mm plasticard to get them to sit at the correct height, checking the height with Symoba's height gauge I used 2x1.5mm sections to form the 2 cross strips and 1.5x1.5mm for the length and corner bracing. the 2 length strips could do with being 1-2mm longer in hind sight but as its my first kit bashing (?) I'm quite happy with it. next jut got to get my head around priming and painting - any advise/guidance greatly received! For Cambrian's Salmons, they are a nice kit (i found) to start with. Only slight trouble I had was getting a smooth(isn) join with the sole bars and the top of the deck. Third time the charm, ended up using blue tack to hold in place while using plastic weld in small sections fine tuning the positioning. Thanks Alistair (Ali)

looking really good! have enjoyed all of you videos!

Thanks for the comments Mick & Jack. I ordered the turned buffers as they look a million times better than the plastic ones! ordered 8 packs but so far only received 2 packs of 4 - not had a reply followings the initial email back from DC Kits probably best part of 3 weeks ago now! I'm planning on using tension lock's for now possibly to replace with Kadee's in the future. Been reading British railway modelling's building 4mm scale wagons book (really good read for a newby like me) and think I'll have to cut out the bottom of the headstocks as they have to get the correct height Thinking way ahead to the containers thinking of buying some C-Rail kits and cutting them down as planning on running with my DRS loco's! Many thanks Alistair

Hi Jim, Mick Apologies to bring up an old topic, I have just started building some PFA's but have got to the point of the couplings and found that the tension lock coupling will be a few millimetres below RTR stock's couplings, how did you get round this issue? many thanks in advance, Alistair