ISW

I agree. I initially fitted Kadees to the underframe of my Lima coaches. It 'worked' I suppose, but it was not happy on 572mm (4th radii) curves and close coupling was much more difficult to achieve. In the end, I moved all the Kadees onto the bogies. Ian

Thanks for the 'extended' explanation! I will want the couplers to be the same height as 'normal' Kadees as I plan to mix-n-match my Mk1 & Mk2 stock (old Lima + new(er) Hornby + new(er) Bachmann) as was common on BR in the 1970s and 1980s. Do you know of anyone actually doing this cut-n-shut to get the Kadee at the right height / length? A few photos would be a great help - if such exist. Ian

Keith, There's always 'one' isn't there ... Just as I thought I understood Kadees and NEM pockets, 'cranked NEMs' come into my world. Mutter ... At least a cut-n-shut can be 'adapted' to suit. My first 'port of call' will be to try using my existing #18 with a necessary 'adaptor plate' to get the correct length / height. I just hope all the plastics are compatible with 'plastic magic' or similar. Ian

Sadly, I don't have any #19 or #20. I have #18, so I knew that was too short ... Ian

I've been happily modifying old stock to Kadees for a year or so now, commonly with Kadee #5, #18, #147 & #156. However, I'm a bit stumped by some Bachmann coaches with NEM pockets. The #18 I have are way too short and I'm not sure if #19 (long) or #20 (extra long) is the correct option. Before I go out and buy, please can anyone tell me which Kadee I need to suit the Bachmann coach below (model 39-371): Coach view (Mk2 - predating the Mk2a - BSO) NEM coupling view Thanks Ian

Keith, I've been doing something similar with my old (& new secondhand) wagons that had the Airfix / Dapol couplings. My method also fills the 'hole' but keeps the weight installed and uses a screw instead of a nut/bolt. The 'hole' is removed in the same manner as yourself and infilled. To strengthen the infill, a crossbeam is added. This 'just' allows for the weight to be re-fitted. The Kadee is then attached using a No.0 x 6.4mm long screw (fitted as shown in the first picture) aided by drilling a ~0.6mm pilot hole. In some cases the screw has fouled on the weight. In these circumstances, I simply cut the screw to an appropriate length. Both methods obviously work, so it's a case of 'horses for courses' ... Ian

DC Kits [1] do supply in packs of 10-pairs and 20-pairs, if you can call that 'bulk'. Been buying mine in packs of 10-pairs for a while now. [1] - others suppliers may also apply ... Ian

Gents, The gradients I've used in the layout (to get from the upper to lower levels) range from ~1.9% to ~2.5%. This calculation probably omits any vertical curves at the start / end and so will be a little steeper. These gradients also include curves of ~572mm radii, although I do have scope / space to increase this if necessary. I'll be using exclusively diesel locos (no kettles ...) of varying ages ranging from 1980s Lima (with 'traction tyres') through to newer Bachmann Class 25s and 47s, all under DCC control. Typical loads will be 6-coaches or similar length freight. Question is; are these gradients suitable or do I have to make them less steep? Ian

Rory Although I designed the layout with settrack radii it will be built with flexitrack. This will be essential to get the correct alignment at the transition curves and give the correct 'flow' of the alignment. As to respacing sleepers .... I can see the visible advantages but will need to do a trial to see just how much of a pain it is to do! I will start on the storage area so will not need to respace initially. Ian

Rory, Thanks for chipping in with some comments. There has been no (zero ...) progress with benchwork or any construction for that matter. I'm keen to get the 'design' all sorted out before committing to timber. Once the track layout is 'finalised' I'll get around to designing the benchwork. I want to have 'lift out' sections that I can work on outside of the 'train room' (eg: outside in the sunshine!) and avoid working / soldering underneath the layout. Given the 2-layer approach (350mm apart) there isn't that much room to get ones head in! The track will be Peco Code 100. Yes, I know 'boring' but with all my Lima stock, complete with cheese cutter wheels, I can't go to Code 75. The curve radii are as stated in the Notes on the Upper level drawing. I used 572 / 639 / 706 / 773mm as that's simply 4th / 5th / 6th / 7th radii. It could easily be any sensible radii, but I had to start with something. I'd like the minimum to be 600mm, but it gets a bit tight in places. Anyway, it sounded good to start with 4th radius ... At the window, to change the 2-curves into a single curve would cause the remaining tangent points to move into the turnout / crossover areas. By using transition curves, the small straight bits will probably be hard to see, and I plan to put a large building in the way (scenic block) in the form of the 'brewery' complex. The sidings next to the station platform are for wagon stabling. I've several photos of the area (from the interweb) that show wagons. All loco stabling will be at the fueling point. Ian

Layout Plan – Drawings Finally, I get to the actual layout Drawings / Plan upon which I would appreciate some advice / comment / suggestions. As you can see from the Drawings below, I’ve taken the time to draw up the whole layout to scale. I’m hoping this will aid with the actual construction and tracklaying as I can print out relevant areas (on numerous A4 sheets stuck together) and build ‘over’ the printout. The Drawings are by no means ‘complete’, with the majority of the ‘scenery’ not currently shown. The brewery building and associated sidings could also do with ‘improvement’. At the moment it’s more of a placeholder. The station and associated road bridge also needs a lot more work to realise a good representation within the limitations of the connecting tracks passing underneath! There are some Notes and a Legend of the Upper Level drawing that provides a little more information about the track layout parameters. Upper Level: Datum 0mm, with 100mm fall in the ‘loop’. Connections: Two connecting inclines, one of 3-Tracks and other of 2-Tracks. =========================== =========================== Lower Level: Datum -350mm, all level Finally, a 3D representation of the Upper level so that you can see how / where the Connection inclines are introduced. What do you think? Ian

Introduction: I’ve been a longtime ‘reader’ of RMWeb, with only a few postings so far. But now it’s time for me to post about the 00-gauge layout I’ve been planning for a while. I’ve not got a lot of experience at this kind of thing, and this will be my first (and probably only) layout that I’ll build. However, during the last 30-years or so I’ve been involved with the building of a number of ‘real’ metro systems and high-speed lines in the Far East so I’m well-versed in the necessary aspects of trackwork planning, design, procurement, construction, and testing. My plan is to practice on the storage / stabling sidings areas, where I can make mistakes and learn from them as I go. I’m also a member of a local model railway club, so I have them for additional assistance and advice. Ian The Basics: The Train Room: I have a space of roughly 4m by 3m to use, and all of that space is usable because the window / radiator is in an alcove and the entrance door is in another recessed alcove. Era: The layout is to be based on the mid-1970s using BR blue diesels (a few ‘large logo’ will be permitted) and all TOPS numbered. Location: The layout is to be based on the south end of Burton-on-Trent station, extending to the Leicester Line Junction where the line to Leicester (doh …) branches off. Ian Rolling Stock (00-gauge) I amassed quite a collection of locomotives and carriages back in the early 1980s, mostly from Lima, which remained in store until last year. I’ve spent the last year or so ‘upgrading’ my rolling stock (a job that is still a long way from being finished): Carriages: Replacement couplings (Kadee), replacement windows (SE Finecast) Locomotive: DCC fitting (hard-wired), replacement couplings (Kadee), replacement windows (SE Finecast). In addition some have been re-motored using CD-player motors (there’s a Youtube video about it), and I’m also fitting headcode & rear lights where I can. Wagons: Replacement couplings (Kadee) I’ve also bought a number of secondhand items in the last year to supplement the fleet. The whole layout will be DCC to which end I have an NCE PowerCab controller. This will require ‘upgrading’ to provide a larger current / ampage in due time. Ian The Layout Track: The track layout is based on that shown in the book “British Railways Layout Plans of the 1950s – Volume 16” by John Swift. Some ‘simplification’ at the Leicester Line Junction was found to be desirable! Strictly, the layout had been simplified by my timeframe of the 1970s, but I want to retain the ‘old’ layout operations, in particular the Burton to Leicester DMU service that ended in the mid-1960s and the extensive brewery traffic. Station Structure: Again, by the mid-1970s the station structure had been vastly simplified to that currently in existence. Victorian splendor reduced to a bus stop. However, I’m keeping the original LMS station design (Rule 1 applies). Ian Layout Plan - Requirements I want a roundy-roundy layout, because I like the idea of trains continuously passing. However, I don’t want to ‘see’ them all the time on the scenic area of the layout as that gets a little boring and risks ‘tail chasing’. I’m therefore planning a ‘folded-eight’ (I think that’s the right term … I wait to be corrected!) on two levels, with inclines in between. I did originally look at using helixes, but they take up a lot of space, especially when you need two of them for a round-roundy style layout. Hence I’m planning inclines. The scenic area is to include areas for shunting and a representation of the Burton refueling point. I’d like to ‘squeeze in’ the original roundhouse buildings that contained the turntables, but I think space is against me Ian

Clive, I knew I'd seen a photo of a DMU at Darnall. Took some finding though ... So, just to prove that DMUs did at least 'visit' Darnall depot, see photo below extracted from "British Rail 1948-78 A Journey by Design" showing "... this view of Darnall depot in 1959. This Derby built railcar ...". Ian

Andi, Oops. Couldn't agree more. Thankfully, 12v supply isn't too bright and my 'test' was worth it. Ian

Many thanks for all the assistance offered by the respondents to this topic, in particular John & Rob who finally lead me to the solution. My first task was to prove it to myself that it worked, so I built the wiring on a breadboard as below. I was most relieved to see both the red and white SMD LEDs lighting at the same time. The power supply was 12v (4xAA batteries). With this success, I modified my veroboard as per the final diagram below. My veroboard was modified accordingly and installed inside the Mainline Class 5 chassis as below. Yes, that is a layer of insulation (acrylic sheet) under the veroboard to avoid shorting on the steel 'ballast' weights. And, wonders will never cease, I had the power the correct polarity at the first attempt, and the white LED lit at the front with the 2x red LEDs at the rear. No need to swap the red / black wires from the track (yes, I know the black is yellow in the model). Still plenty more to do on this model including; install the white LEDs in a 'defuser' behind the headcode boxes, cut out the headcode boxes in the body & install a '0000' headcode, fit the Craftsman 'detailing pack' for the bufferbeam and install kadee couplings. The pickups could also do with duplicating on the power bogie. I've already made cab interiors from styrene cutting the parts on a Cricuit die cutting machine. I know it's a lot of faffing on a old Mainline model when I could just go out and buy a (better) Bachmann one, but where's the fun in that! The 'next' model will be so much easier having solved most of the problems on the Class 45. Ian

John, That's brilliant - saved me making 'another' veroboard layout! But, before I get into that, I'm going to 'duplicate' it on a breadboard for my own peace of mind and learning experience. Ian

Thanks for the clarification. I'm 'sloooowly' getting the hang of the DCC thing! Ian

Rob, If you have a diagram or photo of your veroboard I'd like to see it. I'm sure I could 'steal' some ideas off it ... "... get a box of assorted link wires. Invaluable." Hmmm, thought about that when I bought the breadboard, but the 'pack' was too big and too costly. Mistake? Anyway, I have a few metres of 6-core solid wire cable that I hope I can use instead. Ian

Rob, Many thanks. Will have to break-out the breadboard and give it go ... Might take me a while (first time use and all that) as I'll have to cut / create a bunch of multivarious jumpers to use on the breadboard. Ian

Martyn, Long winded or not, it's a great explanation. The 'key' bits for me was "Crafty Computer Paper white transfer film" and "Acrylic varnish". I'll have to get me some of those; the rest of the materials / software / equipment I already have to hand (I also have an old Canon inkjet printer / scanner - bought in Taiwan in ~2005). Ian

Martyn, Please can you 'expand' on your method of renumbering by printing off from a PC. This would be extremely useful for me to emulate to do similar coach / wagon renumbering. I remember using Helvetica 6pt rub-on transfers back in the 1980s, so I guess that's the right font / size (for coaches anyway). What about the background colour? And how do you make the print paper 'disappear' and make the whole thing 'water tight'? Much intrigued ... Ian

John, Many thanks for putting the effort in to explain in a 'picture' what others have 'described'. I'll be putting your arrangement into practice on a breadboard (recently purchased) before committing to, another, veroboard (I'll have none left at this rate ...). My real problem seems to be convincing the white & red LEDs to play along at the same time. Hopefully, some 'fiddling' with resistor values on a breadboard will help. Ian

For what it's worth, I use an Ozito RTR-2000U (240v, 170W) that I obtained from Homebase about a year ago for the princely sum of £21 (including 109 bits for it). The main advantage I found was the flexible shaft accessory, which is small and light; ideal for cutting / grinding plastic in confined spaces. The speed settings are a bit 'quick' for me. Even on the lowest setting, drilling into plastic causes enough heat to melt the plastic. Other than that, very happy with the machine. Ian

With Maplins going into administration they are having a sale. All 'accessories' are at 50%, so I got a breadboard + mutlivarious resistor pack + 5m cable all at half price. Other stuff at 10% or 20% discount. This was at the Rotherham Parkgate shop (which seems to be closing down). Possibly applies to other Maplins. Ian

Andi, Cutting the tracks and inserting the 10k resistor seems unlikely to help as the white is not lighting now (as it is commoned with 2x red LEDs at the other end). Re-wiring to use the green and/or purple wires and control using f1 / f2 is an option that I know will work, but I was really hoping to be able to use f0 for both red & white lights. I'm planning to get a breadboard so that I can 'try out' different options and see where that gets me. I know the DCC chip kicks out 12v on the blue wire, but what is the current it supplies? The reason for asking is that I'll probably use a 12v battery with the breadboard. Ian