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I'm using the same 12mm plywood for baseboards, but since it's indoors it should not be affected (delamination) by moisture. I too was going to paint the upper surface, probably grey. Might not bother painting the underside though. However, I plan to use 3mm 'vitrex' underlay (for wood and laminate flooring) from Homebase instead of cork. Is it best to paint the plywood and then glue the underlay to the paint, or glue the underlay to the plywood and only paint the exposed areas? Does anyone have any experience with 3mm foam underlay?

According to the 3rd PlanIt software, Peco Code 75 curved turnout is 730mm radius (inside curve) and 1610mm radius (outside curve). Ian

Thanks for the clarifications. Sounds like a 'plan' to me. Will be taking this route at the baseboard joints, as I want my baseboards to be individually removable. Ian

I think that's the route I plan to take. Must the screws be brass, or are steel ones acceptable (I presume it's to do with the solder 'taking' to the metal)? Any particular size required (for a 00-gauge)? Ian

Thanks Brian. Will be a while [1] until I get to building the mainline (upper level). I need to build and install the storage sidings / fiddle yard (lower level) first followed by the 'ramps' between the levels. This has always been a 'long term' project. [1] - Definition of While: At least a year Baseboard support construction in progress at present. Ian

Been busy 'updating' the layout in software to add those 'features' I intimated in the original posting. The MPD has been added and space found to include a couple of breweries and associated sidings. However, one brewery might get replaced with a set of exchange sidings instead. The brewery line mirrors the old Bond End Wharf line by passing under the mainlines to the south of the station. Due to space constraints (we all have those ...) the MPD can only be a 'reflection' of the actual layout, although I did find space to include the Fuelling Point and a building to represent the original LMS buildings containing two turntables. Upper Layer (updated): I've also made a start on the baseboards, or at least the framework to support them. Each baseboard is planned to be removable to permit underside wiring (I'm not a fan of soldering 'against' gravity ...) and to give access to the far-flung corners, which will be otherwise inaccessible. I still have some amendments to do at the station. After some research (with thanks to the HMRS at Stanwick Junction) and the purchase of 'A Pictorial Record of LMS Architecture' by Anderson & Fox I have a much better understanding of the 1883 station layout and its size. So I need to amend the platform width to 60ft and with that the tracks passing through the platform. Hopefully, I'll be able to post some photos of the baseboard progress later this week ... Ian

White Sharpie? Not tried it myself, but seen Sharpies used on model cars for 'detailing'. I gather you need to apply several 'coats' to get proper coverage. Ian

Now you are making me feel ever so slightly 'guilty' at pointing out that the commonwealths were incorrect ... I hope I've not cost you too much! I had the opposite problem, Mk1 Buffet Restaurants (Lima) with B1 bogies that should have been commonwealths! I bought some from Replica Railways, but fitting was more difficult than I anticipated as it was necessary to 'raise the floor level' inside the carriage ends to clear the wheelsets. Hopefully yours will be plug-n-play. Ian

That's all fair enough ... We can't be 'totally' accurate, that's just being silly. As I have a number of the 'earlier' RCTS coaching stock books I thought I'd at least give you the 'option' of alternate numbers. Ian

Keep posting on how you get on with this airbrushing kit. I've today managed to locate and obtain one myself (had to visit 3 Aldi shops before finding any in stock!) and am interested as a complete & total novice at this painting malarkey. Ian

Not wishing to be a 'pain', .... but .... SC25296 was numbered as such [1], but had modified (I wonder how?) B1 bogies [1] not the commonwealths on your model, and was withdrawn by 1983 [2]. It seems that none the SC prefixed Mk1 corridor seconds in [1] had commonwealths. Unbelievably, there were no SC prefixed Mk1 corridor seconds at all in 1978 [3]. However, you have a selection from 1974 [4] that were SC prefixed and had commonwealth bogies, vis SC26039 to SC26054 inclusive. These had all been transferred to the eastern region by 1978 [3]. SC4251 was also numbered as such [1], but had B1 bogies [1] not the commonwealths on your model. Again, it was withdrawn by 1983 [2], and none of the SC prefixed Mk1 open seconds in [1] had commonwealths. You could use SC4076 [3] that had commonwealths but which was transferred to the southern region by [1] [1] - RCTS coaching stock book of 1981 [2] - Ian Allan coaching stock book of 1983 [3] - RCTS coaching stock book of 1978 [4] - RCTS coaching stock book of 1974 Now I don't know if historical accuracy of coach numbers really bothers you, (it's 'your' railway after all) but at least I thought I'd let you know. Ian

Since there was over 20 breweries in Burton at one time, there must be scope for modelling one of the smaller enterprises? Ian

Brian, A very neat solution to a tricky problem. Solutions like these help the rest of us fix our problems by providing 'ideas'. Thanks. Ian

Not a problem for me ...... I only have a single pair (bought as a test from 53A Models in Hull)! I seriously doubt I'll ever buy any more. Ian

Keith, I think you must have found the same one I did - in USA?. Way too expensive!! Ian

Mike, I use No.0 x 6.4mm Philips Pan head Black self-tappers from ModelFixings.com (just a happy customer - other sources probably exist ...) reference MF-ST30B. Once installed the 'excess' was less than 1mm, so I didn't bother to cut it off. It's not readily visible anyway. If you look back through this thread, I've posted a few Kadee installations, all of which use No.0 self-tappers, although I sometimes use countersink heads (ref: MF-ST55) for that 'flush fitting' look. I stick to screw fixings as it does give the option of retro-fitting the original coupling (unless I had to hack off bits of plastic!) or easily fit / relocate another Kadee. Ian

Fitting Kadees to Bachmann coaches with cranked NEM pockets: Plan A: As I had a Bachmann EZ-mate 78035 to hand I tried that and it was a perfect fit: Bachmann EZ-Mate 78035: EZ-Mate installed in NEM: Alignment Check: Pity they are 'out of stock' everywhere in UK! So, it was on to: Plan B: As I had a few Kadee #18 around I fitted one of those and it 'seemed' [1] to fit, just a lot too short. So, I though, the #20 will be okay. [1] - what I had missed was that the #18 was being pressed down by the coach bufferbeam to the correct level ... Anyway, I purchased some #20s to fit to my 4 Bachmann coaches with cranked NEM pockets (models 33-381, 39-371, 39-340, & 39-225C). These are a good fit, but are ~1mm too high just as it had been with the #18 but being longer the #20 did not 'foul' on the bufferbeam. So, as suggested by Keith ('melmerby') I fitted them to the underside of the NEM pocket. As usual (for me) I attached them with a No.0 self-tapping screw. Components to install #20 on Bachmann Cranked NEM: Attached to Cranked NEM: Installed: Alignment check: And the job was done. Many thanks to those of you who pointed me in the right direction. Ian

Juan, I've the Cricut Explorer Air, which you can (could?) pick up at any local HobbyCraft shop. They may now only have the later version 2 machine (2x the speed & ~£40 more expensive). It cuts over a 12x12 inch area (can do 12x24 with a larger mat) and are quite robust. I've had it cutting 0.5mm styrene with any major problems. The software is internet based (it runs inside your browser) and the drawing capabilities seem a little limited. However, it imports SVG files, so I create all my work in a different program and import that into the Cricut software. Ian

Keith, I had a similar problem with a Hornby R239(?) 26T stone wagon. The top and bottom plastic mouldings are 'clipped' together a bit oto firmly to permit disassembly, and there is a steel plate sandwiched in between for the whole length of the wagon. I did originally glue on the Kadees, but this eventually failed. I found that even though there is only ~1mm of plastic in the bottom moulding, it was enough to hold a self-tapping screw. I drilled a pilot hole in the moulding and screwed in the self-tapper as far as it would go (until the 2 mouldings began to separate!). Then I trimmed the screw back until it was only ~1mm longer than the Kadee draft box. Bingo, it worked a treat and continues to work. Parts: You can see the steel plate through the 'slot' behind the bufferbeam. Assembled: Ian

In my defence, M-Lord, the Kadees cost almost as much as the coaches did! One box is marked £2.80 and the other was less that that (from memory) back in ~1981. I did measure it, and you are spot on at 7-8mm. But at the price, I'll live with the less than perfect close coupling. Ian

Except that .... the Bachmann NEM coupling 78035 seems to be 'out of stock'. Even eBay reports them being out of stock! Yes, they are available in USA and Australia, but the shipping costs are prohibitive. Back to Plan A, modifying Kadee #18 with a plasticard NEM plug. At least I have a Bachmann 78035 that will serve as an excellent 'template'. Ian

Paddy, Thanks for that. I've got a pair of those couplings so I'll give them a try. If they are a 'direct replacement' for the existing NEM (cranked) couplings I will be well happy. Ian

Some of my coaches (old as they are) have separately moulded / attached buffers, so it is possible to move them the odd millimetre. They are probably 'pushed home' due to my poor handling while I was re-glazing the windows with SE Finecast windows. I'll see about getting them moved a bit to be more prototypical. Ian

Keith, You did really well to find a glue that worked on Lima bogies . If I had a few to convert, I think I might have used glue. but with a 'fleet' to modify I came up with a solution using a 80-thou (1.5mm) styrene 'packer' screwed to the bogie end with a #156 screwed to the styrene as shown in the following link: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/112980-signaller69s-projects-the-class-126-saga-continues/?p=2999278 The longitudinal offset of the 2 screws turned out to locate the #156 in line with the buffers, as required. For the Airfix bogies, I found that a #156 (with the draft box shortened) screwed directly to the round protuberance of the existing coupler was a perfect match with a 20-thou styrene packer underneath. It just needs a bit of care making the pilot hole into the protuberance The bits laid out ... Bogie assembled ... Close coupling ... Ian

Keith, My humble apologies . How did I miss your previous (linked) posting , especially as it contains such a wealth of useful information! I really like Option 2, but will probably replace the glue with a small self-tapping screw - for easy of modification / disassembly at a future date. It looks like I'll be able to use a #18 with this method too, just by amending the plastic card bit. At a push, I'm thinking that even a #5 will work (using a screw attachment) although any automatic uncoupling might be out of the question (something that I can live with [1]). [1] - how many times have you seen a shunting / re-consisting a rake of coaches happening on a model? Ian