Charlie586

Thanks. I've just zoomed into the pic and you're right The foot board bracket/supports are there, but the boards are not. I'll have to fabricate a set.

I got time to bend and solder the body up. The brass is really thin and half etched so I had a bit of a battle with the curves, but hopefully it won't look too bad when painted. What I did discover is a bargain shop mitre box is roughly broad gauge carriage width which came in handy when soldering. A better photo without the mitre box. After the photo was taken, I had another soldering session and put in most of the compartment dividers except one. In between the second from end first class carriage (a ladies first class carriage) and the central luggage doors is a ladys's (or ladies's ) toilet. The photo on penrhos gives a good idea of it in standard gauge times http://penrhos.me.uk/Clerestories.shtml#E7dwg However, you'll notice on that pic the (probably frosted ) extra window next to the luggage compartment for the lav and the two small panels that are in different places on the model. The body (despite the fret saying E7) actually appears identical to an E6. I think the kit originally dates to the 80's (victoria models? then IKB and now via broad gauge society) so I'm unsure if the kit is at fault or if the compartments were changed when the carriage was narrowed on gauge conversion (which seems a major rebuild rather than just swapping the under frame). I think I'll never know, can't find anything on internet or broad gauge site, so I'll build as is. Parts for the new correct length frame are being put together. Just need to file a tad more off for a better fit then solder. After re-reading the Norton Fitzwarren accident page https://spellerweb.net/rhindex/UKRH/GreatWestern/Broadgauge/BristolExeter/Norton.html I'm pretty certain the reason the carriage there is without running boards is because it is a special rather than a standard express, of which all pictures I've seen had the boards. So I'm going to use the running boards in the kit for the E6/7 with dean 6'4" bogies, and use the kit underframe for an E3 or E10 with 7' non-bogie (just need to buy a body obviously). This gives me a start at two different trains from different periods. Long term though, with carriage kits going for well over £50 each and loads needed, a cheaper way of obtaining/creating them is required... Lastly, a bit of early morning plasticard fun. Possibly the smallest GWR 3rd. Unfortunately it's standard gauge and a long way from home but I've always fancied having one of these since I saw the picture in the Russell book. I'm still trying to work out how to do the bolections, the strip I've used just looks too thick for them. I might cheat and use thin brass bent into a rectangle. I'll carry on fiddling with carriages until I either get bored of them or get the right wood for the platform.

My last reply crossed with yours. You're right, it couldn't have run particularly well in either real or model form with that arrangement. I'm not planning any curves on the layout, but it would be nice to have the ability to go round one. The underframe kit includes a very complex looking 7ft compensated bogie that's hidden so it's possible with dummy parts to get it running and look nearly right. I've already started cutting some brass to make 6'4" bogie frames just in case.

Thanks Chris I had a sheet of paper with the kit which gave some information (numbers, date toilet added, axlebox changed etc) but the bogies are a mystery to me anyway. The date is probably in the broad gauge article I don't have. I suppose of the 4 carriages in the lot, they could have been altered at different times. It's interesting there's a 7ft bogie on a narrow (post 1892) body on one of the diagrams, that would be correct on both occasions I need. The Alextrack site also has information on Broad gauge carriages (and engines), but doesn't have pictures like Penrhos, but in some cases has more information. http://www.broadgauge.co.uk/carriages/

Thanks. Yes, I've spent many hours on the Penrhos site. The E7 diagram on there is after conversion to standard gauge so is only 8' ish wide instead of 10'. It's the solebar and bogie I'm after more info on, in particular was it ever 7ft rigid bogie and if so when did it become 6'4 dean bogie. As I'm doing 1880 (ish) and also the last day of broad gauge I'm hoping I can get it right for at least one of those.

Broadsheet 61 looks like it may help from the description, 57 may help too. Thanks.

Bit of work on the carriage this week. First up, I did a bit of research, and discovered, typically, the information I want is probably in a Broad gauge society mag that I don't have. I did find a few articles on building other BG carriages, and there is a diagram in the Russel book, so that has helped. I don't have a photo I can put on here of what it looks like, but here is a similar length one (E6, not the E7 I'm doing) in 7mm scale http://www.broadgauge.org.uk/_images/modelling/7mm/S080_E6_carriage_body.jpg Anyway, the length difference of the kit (40ft) and underframe (46ft6). I've decided to build the underframe as is (and buy or acquire a body that fits at some point) and cobble together an underframe for the body I've got. Solebar half etch is soldered up to main solebar, but not soldered to base parts yet. You can see the rivet detail and other bits that would need cutting and resoldering, plus the underframe spacings are for the 7ft rigid bogies (not actual bogies but they provided some radial movement), but I'll be using dean 6'4" bogies. There's some spare etch on the fret that'll I'll use for a solebar, and I'll cobble together rivets and overlay later (maybe 3d printed) I found some U channel to try and make the footboards, but it's a bit thick (I remembered after that the person suggesting it is doing 7mm not 4mm). It would also be a pain to saw the length in half to make top and bottom boards, so we'll need to cobble these together as well. Finally got onto the kit Tinned the bolections, then cut out and tidied up then... soldered to the body. One or two have gone on wonky in my haste, but there are spares, I'll file a bit first to see if it improves them, if not I'll unsolder (and probably a few others by accident) then resolder. However, I do struggle to find time to solder, early morning and soldering don't mix, so I'll probably remove from the body from the fret and fold up before next weekend when I'm likely to be able to solder next. I'll try and dig out a ratio underframe kit, although it's too short and narrow, a few together may give a temporary fix. Worth a look.

Trying to collect current from the wheels with the splashers in place without it shorting will be a challenge, so maybe it should stay lost a bit longer. I like the D2 photo too, but it needs some chickens wandering around.

Fergus thinks that chassis are like busses Nothing for ages then two come along at once. Saying that, he doesn't really know what a bus is, as they haven't been invented yet. He has a point though: it's been all Rover for a while now, and a change is needed. I had a bit more spare time this week than normal but still no wood needed for the platform so, with Fergus's approval, I dug a carriage kit out. Broad gauge society E7 kit. The Penrhos site http://penrhos.me.uk/Clerestories.shtml#E7dwg has all the details, to get an idea of how it would look in 10' wide Broad gauge, scroll up a bit to the E1/2 photo. The problem with this kit is the underframe is a generic 46'6" but the E7 carriage is 40ft so a bit of cut and shut is needed. While thinking about whether to cut first or build then cut, I remembered reading somewhere that brass angle maybe easier to use, so I'm afraid, it went back in the kit pile at that point. That was on thursday, but since then I've looked at some angle and can't work out which section or sections combined would be best, so I've decided to build the underframe first to help visualise it, then work out whether to fabricate a new one or cut and shut. In the meantime, and lacking anything else to hand, I relented and got the rover body and soldering iron out. I've run out of glass fibre refills so it looks a bit of a solder mess, but it will clean up. The boiler tube is soldered as well, which was fun. I can't find the front splashers, I'm sure I made them up when I did the others, but don't know where they've ended up. I also bent the flare for one of the tender sides I started with it clamped in a vice with the top few mm showing, then attacked it with various blocks of wood, bars and lumps of metal until it started to bend. Then I finished off with smooth pliers. Hopefully painting will make it look better (and maybe hide that annoying top right rivet that's off line) With this afternoon's rain, I got the paints out i picked out a few more bricks on the station building and did a mortar coat and the first brick picking out of two platform edges. Also is some wood planking painted stone-like to give me a guess at the platform edging. The edging doesn't look too out of place (though I need to check scale length width etc). It also turns out that an old scrap of wood with 2 matchsticks on top is about the right platform height. Shame I don't have more of the wood. Next up, I'll make a start on the underframe kit, get some wood, do some ballasting and have a go at a cardboard mock up of the bridge side.

Looks like a good start, Mikkel, and I like the way the layouts could line up for a modular temporary layout. The traverser idea reminds me a bit of a cliff lift, though the wrong way round.

Thanks Alan, I'll take a look. I've decided to get one, if the smell/chemical disasters are too bad then I'll either resell it or give it to a relative to do the nasty bits and print me the occasional/often thing.

Thanks. Floor covering is carpet, I was thinking of placing it in a fairly sturdy plant propagator but hadn't considered washing down. Something will get spilt eventually so I'll have to rethink this. Don't have an extension or utility room so either a shed rebuild or a different type of printer would be more suitable for me. Thanks for dimensions and diagonal explanation too.

I'm on the verge of buying a photon, but hadn't considered fumes. I was going to run it in the kitchen, but that doesn't seem a good idea now. Would a spare bedroom with the window open be adequate? Unfortunately my shed's at the bottom of the garden with no electric so not practical there without a lot of work. Also, would a 40 ft (160mm) carriage body or even side fit diagonally on the bed? Thanks

I haven't heard or come across a site for people to sell things they've made, I suppose etsy would be the nearest thing that could be used. Most things I make are for myself initially and shapeways is good in that it's easy for others to buy (albeit at a high cost). Printing and selling yourself gives a whole new level of product regulations and product liability insurance, which can't be much fun.

I nearly missed this, I obviously haven't set up the activity thing as well as I thought I had. Great story, Mikkel, with a fantastic cliff hanger at the end. Seeing Finkerbury lurking in the background in the photos gave me a smile and a laugh. Can't wait to see the next part.

Life still continues to get in the way, but I did manage to get some bits together for the chassis suspension and even removed some old bushes to reuse. Apologies for wonky photo. That was as far as I got. However, while looking for photos, I did find some pics of my old layout attempt from 15 years ago. It was an invented GWR branch line (just for a change). I only got as far as two baseboards before a house move meant we had no space and it was relegated to the shed where they are now covered in 15 years worth of dust, damp and mouse droppings. The carriage is a ratio midland kit painted chocolate and cream which I obviously thought was a good idea back then. Anyway, enough of that nostalgia stuff. There's quite a bit of rain forecast this week, so I might get something done.

Three weeks have flown by with life getting in the way of modelling things. What I have been up to, on the side so to speak, is making a 3d rover chassis to match the bodyshell. This was done in the cheapest, grainy WSF as it won't be seen. There are either rocker type bars which bushes can be pushed into, and the central pivot point will accept a piece of 2mm brass tube which can sit on a piece of suitable rod. I've also done simpler rocking beam which will touch the top of the axles, but this means the axle would run directly against plastic so wouldn't be ideal (unless you use over-size bushes and bore them out slightly). I've not had the time (or the correct number of bushes) to check it yet. Hopefully I'll get some time this week. Also A selection of springs, chimney and other bits. As shapeways is now so expensive, and the photon anycubic a fairly reasonable cost, I'm seriously tempted to get one. I know I said that about the silhouette a few months back, but there seems little point getting things done at shapeways when I could get a printer and do it myself to a similar if not slightly better quality. Hopefully I'll get back to doing some actual modelling soon.

So, the soldering iron was out last weekend to firstly fix the laptop cable (again), but I did manage to solder bushes to the rocker arms That was as far as I got with that though. I've done a bit more to the tender sandwich frames above since the pic was taken. And banged a few more rivets out for the tender upper side overlay. Had a small think about bending the tender flare and a trial bend, but couldn't get it to budge but I didn't want to use a lot of force. I've not got a blowtorch for softening the brass, or bending bars, so will have to think again and maybe cobble some bending device together. And started to think about soldering up the main sandwich frames for the loco. As you can see I had to chop a few mm out due to an admin error on the length. The chop will be hidden by the plate as in the photo below. The nickel silver piece is actually 2 identical plates together for the driver spring, another spacer type piece is needed in between them. I did have the correct width needed somewhere, but can't find it now. (from wikimedia under creative commons licence) For the platform, I need it to sit 18mm above the baseboard (this includes the transom height) I've got numerous offcuts of wood and some ply and mdf sheet for the actual platform, but none of them together add up to 18mm. I'll have to hunt round the B&Q offcut bin again, if not then it's sawing and placing bits end on with the ply or mdf topping.

Chris There's a good set of drawings in the first Russell carriage book. One of my many unfinished jobs is a 3d model of them in component parts so it's easier and cheaper to print a large batch of them (about 30% done)

Yep , I have the soldering iron out at the moment, however I seem to be reading RMWeb instead of actually doing any soldering...

One thing that keeps putting me off buying a 3d printer ( and a silhouette for that matter ) is the amount of time it needs to learn something new, set it up, learn slicing etc. But with shapeways latest price increase I'm seriously tempted to go for it. I realise it's extra gluing and not sure what glue would be needed, but just wondering how a silhouette overlay on top of a bodyshell would work.

Early morning bitting and bobbing on things is all I've managed this week. A bit of sawing and marking out on what will eventually become another tender outside frame (2nd from bottom - the two above them are in various states of unfinished), and a few more rivets banged into the tender side. Call me weird, but I do like early morning piercing sawing and filing. I find it very relaxing. I went to check the wheel rocker against the chassis, But some idiot put a frame spacer in the way when building the chassis. With the motor araldited in it probably doesn't need the spacer anymore, so I'll cut it out at some point. I've started to cut the ply down as it's blocking the allotment shed, I've made the width the same as the current board, but will leave the length for now. I'll need a board with 2 turnouts on for one track to cross to another, and am not sure on the length I need at the moment. I know I said it a month or so ago, but I'll try to make a start on the platform soon.

So I did manage to have a small play with the trains today The tender chassis hasn't got the beam or rocker attached yet, so that's next on the list, however it seems to run okay without it but I do need to add some weight at the front where there isn't really any room (I can't leave the back to back gauge blue tacked on however well it works). I also need to solder up the body bits as well for both loco and tender, now that it runs okayish. Then buy a silhouette for the K1/2, then the coaches etc. Forgot to say yesterday, but I've been given a 5' by 3' sheet of ply, it's not as thick as the one I've used so far, but it's free and will probably do for all the boards I'll need in the next 10 years or so (based on current rate of progress).

Hope you're enjoying the break and weather. For the tender chassis, I did find a few stray blobs of araldite on the wheels, so with that removed and the springy wire also removed it worked better in a very short test. Still no video, not had time what with the bank holiday thing and all. I did have a few early starts this week, so cut out the pieces for a beam type thing. Just a bit of tube (which looks squashed in the photo)and some brass rod cut to size. I'm also making a pair of these Rocker type things. I can make the hole for the rod in the chassis do both types, so I'll be able to pick the best and use that. No soldering done, so that's as far as it's got. I also fixed the broken piece of baulk and stuck it back, no photo though. I might get a chance to do some more on the various bits tomorrow, but with the weather forecast being so good, I doubt anything will get done.

It was a dog related incident, honest, I'm not sure if Captain Huish had any involvement in the matter but I like a good conspiracy story. I think it will be fixable which should save an hour or two.