Mike Buckner

Ideally, a review should give details. It would say not only that it was good (or bad), but should also give reasons why. Then one can trawl through the reviews for a place, and get some idea of the plus and minus points. If any reviews mention desires or bugbears, you are in some position to judge. An example. We stayed at a wonderful hotel in Spain. We had hired a car to get there. The facilities were superb, and we had a great time. There was one potential major problem. If you didn't have a car, it was several inconvenient miles from shops or anything else, so you were somewhat trapped. This is the sort of information that a good review should mention.

The one you want is Tracksetta OOT18 Template 18" Radius, whose 457mm radius is slightly larger than Setrack Radius 2, which is 438 mm or 17.25". Peco's web page here: https://peco-uk.com/products/18-radius-template-2

Another factor adding to the confusion may be Hornby having to transfer production of ex-Lima models from one Chinese supplier to another (perhaps more than once), following the demise of Sanda Kan.

I've never used it, so can't comment on its effectiveness, but there's a product called Bullfrog Snot which you apply to the groove, which solidifies and gives grip. https://www.petersspares.com/bullfrog-snot-1oz-jar-liquid-traction-tyres.ir

"DCC Ready" is a term widely understood within the industry to mean fitted with a DCC socket of some kind, a blanking plate, and No decoder at all.

or a butler to stand by the TV and change the channel

Humble apologies if this has been covered before. What were the bogie chains for?

Some commercial chips for use in ripple-counter circuits: http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/Appnotes/Sensorless-Position-Control-of-Brushed-DC-Motor-Using-Ripple-Counting-Technique-00003049A.pdf https://www.ti.com/lit/ug/tidud30a/tidud30a.pdf?ts=1599591806554

The problem there is the headroom - alright for Anne Boleyn.

Resistance is futile - or I'll choke you

Speaking for myself: Because that's what I want.

If it's still available, I'd like it. Have sent a PM. Mike

in the new man shed

That depends on what the modeller wants. They may prefer the sounds experienced when riding - or they may prefer to reproduce what the prototype sounded like from the platform / lineside. A well-known provider of sound decoders offers a decoder for the Class 68 diesel, and claims it is accurate, as it was recorded in a train on the move. It sounds nothing like a Class 68 working hard under acceleration. The most pronounced component of that sound is a very distinctive rapid series of loud explosions from the exhaust, such as can be experienced close to a Chiltern train climbing the incline Northbound on the approach to West Hampstead, or pulling away Southbound from Banbury. Here are some examples - bear in mind that no replay loudspeaker gives anything like the full effect of standing beside these units as they take off.

They don't work.

Is something getting too hot? The power supply, the central DCC unit, the decoder, too many things running, a low-level (low amps) short-circuit somewhere...

wouldn't want them p*ssing on that

My friend endured lifelong shame for a debilitating condition - until a genuine therapist got to the bottom of the problem, and he began to understand that he was feeling "blame" for something that was actually largely outside his control. The relief of knowing this, and the support from an experienced therapist - in this case helped by medication, allowed him to turn the corner. I wish you the same support and relief.

I haven't had one that's been problem-free. So much so, that I don't look at Hornby Locomotives now. Mike

Thank you!

If you are installing the decoder into a loco with a pre-existing Plux22 socket provided by the manufacturer, then hopefully, they will have connected the Stay-Alive pins to some convenient points on the circuit board to which you can solder the capacitor leads. If you are installing the decoder into a loco with no pre-existing Plux22 socket, then you could obtain a "breakout board", and solder the capacitor leads, and everything else, to the breakout board. You need to find a breakout board with suitable dimensions to fit inside your model. Some example boards: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224025839775 https://www.esu.eu/en/products/accessories/adapterplatinen/plux22-adapter-board-1/ https://www.conrad.com/p/tams-elektronik-70-01035-01-interface-adapter-assembly-kit-wo-cable-incl-connector-404211

Thank you!

When running two motors from one decoder, what are people's opinions on wiring them in parallel or in series? How well does Back EMF work in either case?

A review on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/johnnyi_uk