31A

A bit anecdotal from the dim & distant recesses of my memory, but I've got a recollection of seeing 08s trundling along light on the Biggleswade / Sandy stretch delivering drinking water to signalboxes and level crossings with no water supply. This would be late '60s-early '70s and I presume using a Hitchin based loco but the same sort have thing might have happened from the Peterborough end as well. In those days what are now the Slow lines were designated Goods lines, and there were far fewer stopping passenger trains than we're used to these days, so perhaps they didn't cause as much disruption as might be expected, on the 4-track sections at least. Anyway, another reason for a light engine to run.

Hi Clive, I'll be interested to see how you get on with the coach conversions, particularly the CL. I contemplated such a conversion a while ago but decided there wouldn't be much left of the upper part of the sides if I carried on with it, and bought some brass sides from Marc Models instead! Having just carried out a couple of conversions to SLOs, I must admit I've so far taken refuge for the moment in a couple of Hornby Thompson CLs instead. The layout looks as though it'll be interesting and look forward to seeing your progress with it, but I'm afraid I can't help with the location of the relay cabinets.

Thanks for these photos Chris, they certainly take me back! Interesting to hear the Ipswich-Liverpool St via Bury called the 'Parliamentary' - I can understand why it would be, but in Cambridge it was often referred to as the 'Bury Fenman' (I think the up train left Cambridge shortly after the 'real' Fenman). Keep 'em coming!

Are the above pictures of real models, or just photoshopped images for catalogue purposes?

Difficult to know what colour the various parts of the valve gear might have been with colour photos of the real thing being very rare if not non existent, but I wondered whether the painting at the head of this web page (which has also been reproduced in various magazines) might be taken as an inference that the rotating shafts at least might have originally been polished steel, i.e. a similar colour to the connecting and coupling rods? Although I'm not sure on what basis the artist might have decided that (if indeed that is what he did intend to depict). http://www.p2steam.com/

Not may Rob, but I would say in the area of the valve gear. At the time the A3 came out, I thought the Hornby valve gear and motion was rather 'one dimensional' compared with Bachmann's contemporary offerings (e.g. A1) on which the various components looked like forgings, castings etc. compared with the Hornby equivalents which tend to look like flat etchings. But that's perhaps being a bit nit picking; the proportions and body detailing of the A3 still stand comparison with the latest, and I think Hornby have generally caught up now. Looking at Rob's 60103 in the pictures, it also seems to have suffered a slight 'ding' to the front corner of the running plate on the left hand (driver's) side, although the steps, buffers and lamp irons in that area look perfectly OK. Perhaps actually not unrealistic for an engine in that condition!

Thanks for confirming my recollection Jonathan, I couldn't remember why it happened!

I have a recollection that some of the ER sets did run with nine cars for a short time when they were new, as a temporary measure to do with the delivery schedule of the coaches, then went back to 8s for the majority of their BR service until GNER got hold of some more Mk3s and extended them all to 9s. Might be what MrB's driver friend had in mind?

In the 1990s I sometimes had cause to visit Harwich Town station in the course of my work, and was told by the staff there that the train ferry link span was retained for strategic reasons. At that time (as I remember), the railway infrastructure leading to it had been reduced to a single line running across a new road without any proper level crossing and through a very solid new security fence (can't remember whether or not there were gates in the fence). In other words, it COULD have been put into use in an emergency but couldn't be used regularly. The 1998 Quail map shows this simplified layout, but the 2006 version doesn't show any sidings at Harwich Town at all. I wonder whether the end of the Cold War had anything to do with it?

There's a works photo of the van Invicta have numbered their maroon version for (M94291) in the Parkin Mk1 Coaches book but as it's in black and white it isn't easy to tell whether the ends are black or not. However there's a colour picture of M94149 quite clearly ex works and passing through Rugby in Robert Hendry's book 'British Railway Coaching Stock in Colour'. The caption dates the as 30th July 1964, and the ends of this one are very clearly black. As you say, Parkin gives the changeover to red ends as 'during 1964 and 1965'.

I did wonder whether they would do the 'other' kind of smokebox door, but it seems to be the same as the one on 61138. I noticed Rails have photos (rather than catalogue images) of the other late B1 model on their web site (R3114A, 61267), and unless my eyes deceive me this seems to have the more angular type of dome cover: https://railsofsheffield.com/Hornby-br-4-6-0-thompson-b1-antelope-class-br-late-b1-61267-r3114a-JJJA27060.aspx

Thanks Market65! I must admit I did wonder whether something like that may have happened, as the conduit finishes abruptly at the smokebox. I wondered whether the 'Scottish' one was the same or not; I don't have one myself although I did consider getting one. I thought they might be the kind of thing that might be 'remaindered' cheaply, and noted that two of the real ones were reallocated to English sheds (although not sure whether they correspond in other details to the model); however before I found one going cheap 61270 was announced so I've waited for that instead rather than be too greedy! I may consider adding the missing bits with wire; after all I added all the conduits to the Bachmann ones as they didn't have any of it modelled! I've just had another look at 61270 and the front spectacle frames are there, part of the cab front moulding, they just haven't been picked out with 'brass' paint. To be honest I think I prefer them like that - I don't suppose they stayed shiny long in reality - but it would be possible to pick out the mouldings with paint and some care.

After the excitement of a certain big green 2-8-2, today I was able to collect something more mundane but much more suitable from my local model shop - the long awaited (by me, anyway!) B1 61270 (R3114 - BR late crest), for which I had placed an order getting on for 2 years ago. I was interested to see how it would differ from the other Hornby B1s that I have; both of these started life as R2999 61138 (early crest), although one has now been renumbered and weathered, etc. This engine carries representations of the electric lighting equipment fitted to a large number of B1s - as far as a model is concerned, this consists of the electric headlamps front and rear (with lamp irons on top), and a representation of the steam driven generator on the right hand side of the smokebox. There is also a pipe or conduit running horizontally along the right hand side of the boiler, from the cab to the generator. On the model, these are present with the conduit being moulded as part of the boiler. Unfortunately, it stops at the join between the boiler and the smokebox and consequently doesn't reach as far as the generator! On the rear of the tender, the lamps / lamp irons are present and correct as is the conduit which connects them These items all seem to be separately added details, and on mine there is no section of conduit joining the left hand lamp with the middle one - which I assume there should be; not sure whether this item is missing or broken from my specimen, or is absent by design? It should be possible to replace with a piece of blackened wire. Also on the tender, the rear coal plate is in the 'forward' position adopted for these tenders from the 1950s, and is of the later higher type. I had wondered whether this model would have AWS fittings, but this is not the case. I don't know when (or if) the real 61270 was fitted with AWS, but I may add these fittings myself using a battery box (attached to the fireman's side step) 'robbed' from one of my now-withdrawn Bachmann B1s and a reservoir on the running plate from a piece of rod. Nevertheless the bag of bits to add does include an AWS deflector plate to fit under the front buffer beam; I don't think this was included with the R2999 models. However the NEM coupling pocket on the bogie protrudes so much that it would be impossible to fit this! This model has a screw coupling fitted at the front; however the NEM coupling pocket fouls this even if it is stowed onto the draw hook. I think I'll be taking a hacksaw and files to the bogie casting to get rid of the coupling pocket. Other bits supplied to be attached by the purchaser include vacuum and steam pipes for the buffer beams, cylinder drain cocks, brake rigging for loco and tender, and front footsteps. None of these had been added when I took the photographs, and sadly I've so far been unable to fit the front steps to B1s, as the footplate narrows towards the front and consequently I find they foul the bogie wheels. The bag also includes an optional screw coupling for the tender, and an auto coupling for the front. Otherwise, the model is well finished with the livery beautifully applied, including a 32A (Norwich) shed plate on the smokebox door. The engine runs smoothly straight from the box, and on testing, all pick ups on the loco and tender make good contact with their wheels. The tender drawbar gives alternative 'wide' and 'close' positions; on previous experience I should be able to run the loco on the 'close' setting if I trim back the tender buffers. The electrical connection is by pre-fitted plug. The three letter code on the box is 'REF'. I see there is also an R3114A version to come, advertised as 61267.

Thanks for a very comprehensive assessment! Also for explaining why I couldn't get the body off mine - I didn't want risk causing damage by forcing things, which in view of your comments sounds as if I was wise. Mine runs slightly noisily as if more lubrication may help, so I may have another go at getting the top off, bearing the above in mind. I also thought the valve gear mouldings, although nicely detailed, looked a bit 'flat' and wondered whether it would be worth picking out the rotating shafts (at least) in a colour to suggest polished steel. In the coloured artist's impression which accompanies advertising for the guys aiming to build the replica '2007', these parts are portrayed as unpainted and polished, but it doesn't seem possible to tell from contemporary black & white photos. I also wondered whether a coat of 'Klear' over the green livery might help to 'lift' it slightly - in a lot of the pictures of the real thing, the platework seems to have been kept smartly polished.

Thanks Ian, had noted that post for future reference (hopefully not necessary!). Slightly surprising they've gone back to this method of electrical circuitry, other recent models (e.g. the L1) having had the pick ups hard wired. Having recently had a Black 5 to bits, I found I then needed 6 hands to get it back together again with the electrical contacts making - although admittedly made more complicated in that instance by the components for the sprung axle! Glad to read that the problem with yours was resolved, though!

Surely it's not so much a case of 'wiring' as such (I presume the wiring on the TTS version is for the sound / DCC equipment); more that current collection from the tender wheels would have been a worthwhile enhancement on the main range version, which would have required wipers on the tender wheels as well as wiring? Having said that, collection from eight drivers ought to suffice and I was pleased to note that all eight did indeed collect current when tested, whereas often wipers need to be tweaked before they will work reliably.

I think Mr. Sturrock got there first....

"Mange range"??

Well the plates could be metal I suppose - as I said, I was so underwhelmed by their appearance that I didn't even open the packet they came in! They reminded me of the pictures we were shown of the plates that came with the 'Great Gathering' A4s - just flat printing, rather than what I know as an etched plate. Actually I didn't find it as difficult as I expected to fit the cab doors, although it's going to be harder to describe what I did than it was to do it! Holding the loco vertically cab uppermost, I found the doors would remain balanced in place (the upper lug seemed to lodge behind the cab seat) long enough to get a brush full of plastic solvent (Mek Pak in my case) onto the lugs, then pressed own with the tip of a modelling knife to hold the lug in place for long enough for the solvent to bite. I was more worried about the front steps as I usually have trouble getting them to stay vertical until the glue sets, but the fitting of these is well designed this time with locations moulded on the rear of the buffer beam as well as underneath the running plate, so that again they would remain in place by themselves long enough to get solvent onto them. The drain cocks and front vacuum pipe were tight push fits, and I didn't use any glue at all on them.

I think the only time red plates were used on LNER (or ER locos) was when some were so painted in the late 1950's - early '60's? Apart from certain blue A4s, and 4472 sometimes in preservation?

A few quick pictures of mine (R3207 'standard' range) after I'd added the extras last night, and some initial thoughts. The headlamps don't come with the model! The first thing that struck me was how beautifully the livery has been applies, including the fine red lining onthe loco rear frames, tender frames and axlebox covers. Also the edge of the running plate, and cylinder covers. The black / white lining includes the 'panel' on the back of the tender which was missing from the Railroad version, and very neat lining out of the centres and tyres of the loco wheels. On the tender, the cab front (including the floor) is in apple green, and a quick improvement would be to paint the floor black - I think I may have read somewhere that the LNER painted tender fronts dark green? Nameplates are neatly printed on the casing; a note on the box says 'Includes two etched nameplates' and indeed two separate nameplates are included. I haven't taken these from their packaging yet, but they look to me very much like printed plastic! A pair of (actual) etched plates would be a big improvement; I'm not sure whether any suitable are available. I see both Modelmasters and 247 Developments list Cock o' the North plates for Class A2/3 - not sure whether these would be different? Buffers are solid but none the worse for that, and apart from the main horizontal boiler handrails, the other handrails (and smokebox door handles) are also solid mouldings - this is less evident however on this loco where they are neatly picked out in silver, than it might be on another engine where the details might be in 'body' colour. Apart from the three across the bufferbeam, lamp irons are also moulded solidly and in my opinion look a bit 'flat'. The cab roof vents are solid, and the cab interior detailing is basic but adequate. The cab seats appear to be separate items, but other details are moulded and not picked out in colour - very sensible in my opinion on a loco like this with an enclosed cab, especially if it helps to contain costs. The safety valves appear to be brass turnings, recessed into the cab roof. Other detailing is very neatly moulded, including representations of the rotary valve gear, which hang from the footplate in front of (but not attached to) the drive crank on the second driven axle. From pictures of the real loco, there was a short vertical handrail inside the casing at the front, on the right hand side (looking forward) only, next to the smokebox door - difficult to see how this could have been moulded on the model (or indeed added neatly). On the tender, the coal is a moulded solidly with the body but not too high for real coal to be added on top. Turning to the mechanism, I was impressed by how close the driving wheel flanges are to one another! The pony truck is pivoted with the typical Hornby 'two pins' arrangement, but behaved well during my test runs. Initial reaction to performance was that it is somewhat 'graunchy' as if in need of some lubrication, but smooth running once started. Quite possibly it will ease up with running. The instruction leaflet shows how to take the body off and this seems simple; however having removed the fixing screw I then couldn't free the chassis from the body at the rear end, and suspect the motor may be a tight fit (as already mentioned elsewhere in this thread).The leaflet says the loco is fitted with a five pole motor and shows a flywheel. The drawbar has two positions, and I found I was able to run the loco with the drawbar on the closer setting through my 'test piece' (a crossover formed by two Peco double slips) without difficulty. There is no electrical connection to the tender, which has no pickups; however all 16 pickups on the loco seem to work correctly without needing adjustment, so current collection should be quite adequate. The extra parts supplied for the purchaser to add include loco brake rigging, front vacuum pipe, front steps, cylinder drain cock pipes, cab doors and a moulded plastic fall plate between loco and tender. All the above fitted neatly (with minimal flash cleaning required on the brake rigging and drain cock spigots), and with them fitted the loco still passed my 'curving test', although it's as well that the drain cock pipes are very flexible as the pony wheels brush them aside on curves. The leaflet shows a front draw hook as a separate item to be fitted, but on mine this was already in place. I may seek out a suitable screw coupling, to improve the front end appearance. The pony truck includes a pocket for a front coupling and one is supplied as a separate item; however the pocket doesn't protrude forward unduly. So first reactions very positive and overall quite impressed. Question is what do I do with it now, on a 1960s layout?

Good news indeed, although hopefully the backlog doesn't all arrive in a great flood - otherwise it'll be BAD news for my cashflow!!

Could have been mine James - I bought one from them at about 1520 this afternoon! Pure indulgence on my part; it has no place on a c1960 layout, but as a lifelong fan of Gresley's big engines I just had to! And very nice it is, too....

Hi Market65, good work with 2001; I wish I could line out driving wheels like that! But a question is niggling away at me, and maybe other LNER fans on here might have a view on this - I'm wondering whether the non corridor 8-wheel tenders usually had a rectangular panel of lining on the rear? I've yet to find a picture of the rear of a 2-8-2's tender, but a picture showing the rear of a similar tender attached to 4472 in 1938 (LNER Pacifics at Work, P. Townend 1982 p.73) shows a lined out (white-black-white) panel on the rear of the tender, with the verticals inside the vertical handrails, and the horizontals level with the horizontal lining on the tender sides. Hope this doesn't cause you more work (or a nervous breakdown)!

I was just having another look at the ex LNER CCT van, and wondered how best to tackle the solid windows. Using the thinnest clear plastic to hand (actually packaging from a pack of Wills Scenic Materials), I cut a strip 2mm wide, and painted one side of it black. Any black will do, but I had matt black to hand as I was painting the wheel centres and buffers, prior to some more serious weathering. Matt dries quickest anyway, and when it was dry I cut pieces from the strip 9.5mm long, and laid them into the recesses where glazed widows should be. Flooding the recess with Johnson's 'Klear' fixes the pieces in place (varnish would probably work as well). Here's a 'work in progress' picture: From right, the windows originally glazed (above the number), in the centre a pair of windows with my glazing in place, and on the left a pair of unaltered windows as moulded solidly. It seemed neater to do it this way than to try and paint the window recesses black; also doing it this way it was possible to assess whether it was worth doing by laying the new, painted glazing in place before securing it. I think it is worth doing! Thanks to Coachmann for telling us how to get inside this van, and having done so I found that only the middle of the three lamp fittings on the roof is a separate part; the others are moulded as part of the body - not sure why this would be! Also, the more I studied the underframe in particular the more I was impressed by the finesses of the detailing, e.g. the triangular brackets between the solebars and the body. Edit: Forgot to mention (although probably self evident), the new glazing goes painted side inwards!