Richie Kynaston

Hi Jon, A friend recommended reading through your posts on here - truly inspirational .... I want to say modelling, but I think micro engineering is a better term for your work! I'll openly admit, I know the very basics about signals, even the tag line of 'informed idiot' would be placing me in a higher category than I should be! But a friend of mine is creating a model ... well cameo scene really, but it will likely grow and develop into something bigger! And we were looking at building the semaphore signals to go with it - its 16mm scale, so I don't think we're treading on your toes in anyway, but I've offered to create the various S&T drawings in CAD for no end of different bits for him, from point rodding cranks to semaphore arms, and I was hoping you might be able to help me out (or point me in the right direction) with dimensions. We are basing the semaphores on Eastern Region semaphores that would have been seen around the Doncaster/Rotherham area (which I think from the boxes were ex-GC design). Was there such a thing as an average height to a semaphore post or was everything bespoke for its location? Do you know the size of the signal 'arms' and the individual reflectors, or indeed the lamp housing/weight bars? 7mm sizes would be ok if nothing else, as we can scale them up. We have a double ground signal, one home, one home bracket (two arms) and a two arm shunt signal to create, so I think it is worth trying to create things like the arms etc, in brass. Im thinking of using the CAD drawings to 3D print the lamp brackets, and see if I can find someone to take a 3D master and create some whitemetal parts for us, for things like the weights. I have been looking around and it seems that many GC signals were lower case, although these appear to have either not survived into the 1950s, or been replaced with lattice or solid pole style structures with upper quadrant arms? Lattice post would need be an etched brass design (any suggestions on the thickness?) while the solid pole could be brass tube I think. Any dimensions, advice or help you can (or are willing) to give, without breaching any trade secrets(!) would be most welcomed. Sorry to ask so many questions. Richie

Super layout - would love to get to see it on exhibition if it goes out anytime? Amazing modelling - like so many of the threads generated by this competition ... I'm my view, your all winners! Richie

Kev, Thanks for posting this. Useful reference! The frame is looking good, quite intrigued to see how your top handles will fit on and what they are made/machined out of! Richie

Thanks for all the input guys. I am trying to help a mate of mine with creating some working point rodding and signal wire equipment for his new 16mm layout. I am sure he’ll probably start a thread shortly, but if not I’ll update this with how the S&T equipment is progressing!

Thanks for the level crossing stuff guys. Much appreciated, I have a bit clearer understanding now. Also thanks to Phil for the PDF link, that made interesting reading. Can anyone help on dimensions of this stuff at all?

Evening all, Hope I am posting this in the right place. Can anyone give me any dimensions for the cranks used within point rodding, and the height/width of the point rodding 'U' channel please? Also, the wheels that wire/chain goes around to redirect the wires for semaphore signals? I know this is probably far from a simple question, but I have seen reference to what I would term double cranks being used to allow adjustment in long point rodding runs, is there any fixed rules surrounding when and how these are used? One final query, if I may. In a manual box, the wooden level crossing gates generally turn through 45 degrees, when moved from the railway 'closed' position to the road 'closed' position. I know the operating wheel in the box (from the ones I have seen) controls a cog which moves a straight ratch up and down, but can anyone tell me how that translates into circular movement for the gates please? I have searched over Christmas on Google but not come up with any operating details, pictures or diagrams and am somewhat baffled, I assume it has to be rods or bars between the box and the gates as I don't think wire would be suitable. Cheers Richard

Hi Richard, How are you progressing with your model of Berkeley station? I may have missed this on your other threads, but how do you do your brickwork? Richard

Very impressed by the whole project but that lever frame will look amazing when completed. Can I ask, what width and type of steel have you used for the parts, what are you making the top of the levers out of, and can you say which company for laser cutting you have used? The latter could be quite useful to several of us! Do you deem that the laser cut was cost effective and viable for other projects or was its use more as a time saver because of the competition and the number of identical pieces required?

Superb layout - your Lady Anne looks great! I have toyed with such an idea in the past, and then discounted it, but then I see the Hambledon Valley videos again and its comes back to the forefront of my mind Do you happen to know what radio system (manufacturer) Steve uses on Hambledon, and have you converted your loco to the same? I know you mentioned you were thinking about doing it at one point? Interesting take on the livery, gaining BR decals Richard

Lovely work .. have you got the layout out anywhere in 2019?

Absolutely stunning layout Neil. Love the detail that you have included.

Hi All, While having a few quick wanders around the farthest reaches of the Internet, I looked at the DJ Models website, and see Dave has posted either yesterday or today, some pictures of the 3D printed King. https://djmodels.co.uk/n-gauge-king-in-print Richard

Not operated by Virtual Railfan (although I do watch their Barstow cams quiet a bit) but there are two privately owned cameras around Tehachapi in Californian that make superb viewing. Not a busy line, currently about 13-16 trains a day during December daylight hours on average. Interestingly mainly BNSF traction, given its a UP route, but some of the workings are remarkable - there appears to be a thrice-weekly loaded grain train heading westwards that always has 4 locos on the point, three mid-train helpers and two rear helpers, along with around 140 wagons! The guys that run it have one camera at Cable (between the City of Tehachapi and Tehachapi Loops) and a second on the old depot at Tehachapi. Well worth a look if your into modern day American traction, although with work windows and the current downturn in traffic for Christmas, it does require patience.... https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6RIkXobtXWJElbwEHIC-sg Richard

Hi All, Well everyone may have noticed I've gone a little quiet! I thought I had better just put an update on here. Having taken ages to recover from my chest infection, followed by other minor but totally knackering health issues, I finally seem to be on the mend. But all the model railway plans have been totally disrupted with a house move on the horizon. In one line of thought, it means I may get a heated room, or at least a proper loft conversion to use, on the other hand, I am somewhat concerned that the space will reduce, which will be a shame, given all the planning that has gone into EMC so far. So, this project isn't dead, it is just on hold until its new home is decided. I am eager to get on with things and was really happy with how things were working out. So am somewhat disappointed to have this set back, but the positives are that it may end up better or more accessible than before. I have specified that the new house should have a railway room that will NOT need to be converted for other purposes, somehow I suspect that requirement may get knocked off the 'must have' list!! Richard

Nigel, Many, many thanks for taking the time and trouble to not only reply but to spell out so many options. It is gratefully appreciated. I’ve read through your reply and all sounds logical is split into small chunks, but I’ll read it through again before acquiring everything. Not sure if this is the right place or not, but I’ll update this thread with details and photos as I go, in the hope that it may help others doing the same thing. I’ve three Dapol 56s to do, so may be an expert at sound fitting this model before I am finished!!! Edit: I am tempted to add, I didn’t think DCC sound in an 08 would be viable so given your penultimate comment, if an 08 is achievable, then a 56 certainly should be! Cheers

Nigel, Thanks, I’ve helped a friend do a couple of decoder installations into older non-DCC ready OO gauge locos, but this is a first on my own. You say “a full replace circuit board” may be simpler, am I correct in thinking that the motor, pickups and lighting wires all come to one PCB which connects them to the plug? Ie removing that board is as simple as unsoldering some connections? Or is there potentially more to it! Thanks in advance for your help. Im assuming that in addition to motor inputs/outputs I am looking for at least a five function decoder? I think from what I’ve read most of the Zimo ones are 8 function? I appreciate there’s not much space in N but do you know if it is feasible to get a small stay alive in there as a backup power source for a second or two? I am going to using the FinetraX trackwork rather than Peco points so I am hoping that stayalives wont be needed, but if it’s feasible it seems common sense to add in. Can anyone suggest any particular speaker to use? Given the thud of a 56 I am assuming (again!) that a bass speaker would be best if available?

Evening all, Can anyone point me in the right direction? I want to put a DCC decoder in my Dapol N gauge Class 56, preferably a sound one with Paul Chetter’s project that a good friend has recommended. Now, I haven’t had the top off yet, but I gather the Dapol 56 has a 6pin socket. So first question is which is the best Zimo decoder and speaker for the loco. I have also bought some ultra small LEDs that I want to fit as cab lighting - can this be done with a plug in decoder or is it a case of ignoring the plug and hard wiring it? I am also hoping I can separate the tail lights on either end, which makes me think hard wiring will be the way to go? Has anyone done it before? Can anyone offer any advice? It would be appreciated, before I head to Digitrains next week.

Thanks guys, I am looking at 28-29 HAAs Duncan, but with long 7-10ft grades I think we should be ok (famous last words) but I will take your advice and do some tests before going very far. I was hoping to get to a Toy and Train fayre last weekend with the aim of hopefully increasing the HAA fleet but alas this chest infection put pay to that. Another one end of the month tho I gather! Richard

Hi David, I think I agree with Steve perhaps toned down bit, the real thing will get filthy really quickly. Also, are you aware that you've got two there, when you only need one? Sorry if I am stating the obvious! Have you see this thread - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1066/entry-8889-aws-ramps/ may help with weathering and background? Richard

Evening all, Well the old week off has gone somewhat awry as I came down with a chest infection which has kept me low, tired and not feeling like doing anything. So my grand plans to get started on things almost fell apart at the start. A friend was heading to the local timber merchants for some supplies for his home DIY project, so has has acquired some 5-ply for me for the shed baseboards, thats being dropped off tomorrow, so a start will hopefully be made Friday or Saturday depending on how I am feeling. Don't you hate it when life gets in the way! Richard

Thanks Flood Nice shot, I can hear those 20s whistling from here!! Kevin/David: Thanks for the 'Peak' info, really useful. Phil: Yes the Denby branch double brake vans is one of those I am hoping to model! Anything to add variety to things. Sorry for the delayed response - illness has kept me at bay. Richard

Thanks guys, I decided against the 31 model in the end, for a few reasons, but had come to a similar conclusion that the level of detail on the older models left something to the imagination! Richard

Just to update - I am being told that the Mk5 introduction on the Lowlander sleeper has been postponed for 4-6 months, so presumably the 86s and 87 are safe on the ECS duties for a bit longer! Richard

David, Many thanks - I shall enjoy browsing through those, and will try and remember to keep checking back! Much appreciated. Richard

A friend has just contacted me about a Class 31 model that could be available to me. I gather its a non-DCC, original Poole Graham Farish loco - can anyone tell me what they are like for detail and running qualities. I would need to DCC it of course for my use ... is it a recommended buy or avoid? Any advice gratefully received Cheers Richard