K Hatton

Nor is the android app, hence why Nathan said 'when you get the chance' 😉 To be fair the generic profile isn't actually bad. It covers all the basic sounds and is another sound fitted loco to play with in the meantime (and can be changed/updated in the future)

So tonight I decided to take the plunge and set about fitting my first TXS decoder/speaker/stay alive setup to my Bachmann Blue Peter A2. I chose this model as my test subject for a few reasons: 1. No tender pick-ups (hence stay alive) 2. Metal body and metal weight in boiler to work around/figure out. 3. I wanted to replace the previously fitted laisdcc "kung fu" chip and stay alive (kept the loco running for 20 seconds after a short occurred - far too long i.m.o) I'll let the pictures do the talking but the end result is it all fits rather neatly and programmed up like a normal dcc chip on my Hornby elite (currently unable to download the app as android user). Stay alive works nicely but isn't overly powerful. Speaker fits on top of the boiler weight using the 2nd largest enclosure. I have put heat shrink around the chip to prevent it shorting out on the body (secured with a dab of glue at the wire end - I'm not brave/stupid enough to try and heat it up and fry the chip!) I'll update the chip and maybe change the sound set when the android app becomes available (I know the A2 isn't on the list but would appreciate any suggestions of what would be the closest match from the current options - Tornado perhaps?)

Basic question but do you know if the loco has a DCC chip fitted? You can check by opening the tender and seeing if a chip or the blanking plug is fitted (or is the blanking plug in the packaging)? If you want to check yourself you need to remove the coupling from the tender chassis (just a push fit from underneath) then using a small posidrive screwdriver unscrew the tender retaining screw. Then lift the rear of the body and gently move backwards to unclip the front (the instructions have diagrams to show this procedure). Be gentle/careful to avoid damaging the drawbar and wires between the loco and tender. If it does have a DCC chip there is a possibility that it has failed. This may then just be a case of remove the old chip and fit a new one (or the blanking plug if using DC controller) and test again. If you don't want to try that contact the seller and see if they will either repair or replace/refund you.

Interesting to know, thanks. Currently just a theoretical question for me as I don't own an i-anything 😅

Is anyone able to tell me what the differences between OO scale and TT scale sounds would be? I'm guessing the sound would be the same but the difference would be in the motor control/speed side of things? Just wondering as the TT A4 is showing as live whereas the 00 A4 is not.

Fair enough, you are a braver man than me! Anyway I've had my say, will wait for the android app then will have a play myself (power supplied by a Hornby elite controller) and if it goes wrong I will quite happily let you all know.

Yes, it says it functions on DC. As a human I can function powered by baked beans alone but it wouldn't be a long term solution. The instructions in said box are pretty simple to read themselves. They even give you 2 lists of *compatible power supplies* and nowhere does it show using a DC controller.

They have been advertised as 'this is possible' not 'this is 100% going to work every single time with every variation possible' We all know 'it is possible' to operate a DC loco on DCC powered track but how many people actually do (and what is the usual outcome...)?

If the box and instructions say it *may* be possible (but not recommended) however we recommend using another method/product then I know which one I'd pick. Also SK isn't the boss of the company. His job title is 'Marketing and development manager' - basically head salesman. (sales people are always 100% honest and correct when trying to get you to spend money aren't they?)

Agreed. I work in car breakdown and recovery and the number of people who don't understand the basics is frightening. This would be nice but it's almost guaranteed to be an exception to the rule. As said earlier in this thread Hornby are currently in the process of making the app work on android (after making it work on apple) - can you imagine how much longer it would take for them to test both versions on a multitude of devices with multiple different digital and analogue controllers as power sources to see "what might work"? Even then there will almost certainly be someone who tries it at home and says "it doesn't work/they are wrong"

I think the thing missing here is 'common sense' You *may* be able to cook your dinner using a blowtorch instead of an oven but would you risk it? Also how many people have actually stuck a multimeter across the tracks and 'cranked the controller to full' to check the voltage before trying to programme the chip? These are still digital chips and can be easily fried the same as any other brand (I've had 3 loksound chips burn out through no fault of my own in the past!). Hornby were never going to test these with every other makers analogue controllers for the same reason Bachmann probably don't test new locomotives with a Hornby controller. Also just out of interest has anyone with one of these "burnt out/faulty" chips actually had Hornby refuse to replace it?

Had an email today from Hattons regarding my pre-order for R3838 (78010): "Our latest information from the supplier suggests this item will arrive with us between September 2023 & October 2023 Whilst we are hopeful this information is accurate, manufacturer lead times are frequently prone to be delayed. This information is to be used as a guide only." Hopefully not too long to wait now 🤞

If they are being made as they were shown in the recent Hornby TV series then I doubt it as the shared bogies use a similar setup to the eurostar (from memory) where the centre infil is actually curved plastic. I had been wondering if it would be possible to use some kind of stretchy fabric to achieve the desired effect (possibly something similar to ladies tights or equivalent?)

Fitted my driver/fireman today - wouldn't it be nice for more manufacturers to allow for easy access like sonic have 👍 Also genuine question, would it be feasible to fit a stay alive with the DCC sound chip installed from rails?

Mine arrived this morning and is running in on the rollers. First impressions are good, nothing out of place (cab roof etc) although presumably any such issues would have been rectified before/during sound fitting. Running plate is slightly curved up at the front but is no worse than other manufacturers models I've seen before (the well known a3s!) It does have a slight rocking motion while running but not substantial enough to warrant returning (to me anyway) Basic sound works on dc control (always a bonus). I do intend to fit a driver/fireman, would anyone be able to suggest where to find some suitably attired crew?

Good news for anyone expecting a sound fitted version of these - I've had the email to say mine has been dispatched (gcr livery with sound upgrade). My pre-order was only placed 15th January this year so I'm slightly surprised to have the notification so soon!

^ I agree with this. It's all a matter of perspective though. Being born in 1991 my first impression of f.s was as 4472, LNER apple green and that will always be its 'correct' livery for me. Much the same as Mallard (4468 LNER garter blue) - anything else to me would just be wrong! Back on topic: My suggestions for your brief would be: R3202 (NRM weathered version) or R3503 (NRM locomotion version) I do not own either so can't comment on detail etc but I'd say they both look the part.

Fwiw: I have purchased an evening star as a birthday present for my dad (to replace his tender-drive Hornby) and have the following observations. One of the brake blocks had come off in transit (was still in the box). Easy enough to refit - just something to check as it wasn't immediately obvious until the block fell on the table. This aside my opinion is this is a really good model. Very finely detailed, crisp clean finish and easy dcc/sound fitting as a massive bonus. The packaging is a massive improvement over the usual cardboard box (Hornby have used this style box before for the Royal Lancer a1 if memory serves me right). Price wise I pre-ordered the model when it was £209 from Hornby themselves. Since then the cost of just about everything has increased so why people are surprised Hornby increased their prices baffles me. (If you think this is worse than the current rise in energy bills then your priorities are very different to most other people's!) I understand money is a big consideration for most people but I was always taught if you can't afford it, save up until you can and if you can afford it then do what you enjoy (can't take it with you!) I'm sure my dad will be happy with it and hopefully get his enjoyment out of it and at the end of the day that is all that matters to me. I'm not here for an argument so please don't take this post as a reason to start one.

Hi Mike, They may have been mentioned however I dont remember seeing anything other than the bus depot? Either way still interesting (to me at least)

Edit: figured out how to do links: Colwick industrial road No 2. Rd No 2 https://maps.app.goo.gl/4nPhQoASBsYufi5f7 35 Rd No 2 https://maps.app.goo.gl/Sv1KnPJkhPSf4EXf9 Chris Allsop scrap yard - rails still visible at various places in the yard. Colwick, England https://maps.app.goo.gl/vz1qDDAXnLGA2NuTA Also a bonus (*off topic*) - i have been lead to believe this brickwork is the remains of the GNR racecourse platform ( behind the Jaaaaag): Daleside Rd E https://maps.app.goo.gl/Fz4KkRqd6kz3iGiX7

Having spotted the comment early in this thread about the Nottingham tram depot (now bus depot) I'm surprised non of the Notts members have mentioned Netherfield yet. I don't know how to add links to Google maps from my phone so have screenshot some of the lines around the Netherfield industrial estates.

Hi all, Just to update the aligners are now fitted and work beautifully. Tracks line up every time without any need for extra pressure/adjustment. I have tried soldering the rails to a couple of the joiners on the inner edges (as instructions say) and the others on the outer edges to see if there is any difference and will report back if anything changes. I have also purchased and fitted some of the "power feeder" sleepers to test and have found they work brilliantly. Both items are extremely easy to solder (even for someone like me who isn't too good at soldering!) and I'll probably be ordering more in the future.

Same here! Ordered some wednesday, delivered yesterday (will update when they are fitted)

Very smart idea, will look into these!

Hi all, As the title says I am hoping someone can help me and my dad with an issue on our layout. We have had to hinge a section of baseboard to allow for access to a water tank and need to figure out a way to make sure the track aligns properly at the join. Fishplates are not a viable option as they would be difficult to fit/remove for my dad. Currently the track is pinned into place and the boards have been built with an interlocking framework. Wiring is also sorted (BUS wire will be fed from the next board along) Any advice/suggestions appreciated.