Pinehill

No one used these yet?

Yes quite honestly I am trying to avoid using bolts! Can somebody show me a wiring diagram? I want to run a single track from my scenic board to the edge of a 5 or 6 track traverser with a plug to take the 2 wires under the baseboard to presumably a terminal block on the traverser where the positive wire would be split to feed each traverser road with a switch (rotary or individuals) to control which one is live. The negative wire I guess would be wired as a common return. That is the basis of what I wish to do but not sure how to get a good locking system with each track. Not bolts! Cheers.

My layouts are Analog DC in case that makes a difference to people's views & advice. Thanks.

Exactly, a length of plywood strip or even Peco buffer stops?

What are people experience of the DCC Concepts surface mounted point motors? In the past I have used their below baseboard items & they have been very good for the past couple of years but these surface items look to be less of a hassle to fit. Can they be fitted well away from the actual points, thereby not having to disguise the 'lump'? Regards.

Thanks, that sounds better than brass bolts but how do you 'lock' the required track to the on scene section? Would you have a wiring diagram? Regards.

Considering my next project & thinking about using a 6 road traverser fed by a single track. What is the best way to wire to the traverser. I guess a common negative looped on each track with enough flexibility to allow movement of the traverser but what about the other positive wire from the feed? Is there an alternative & better system than the brass bolts method? Does anybody have a suitable wiring plan or photos showing what they have done? I am a little confused about the whole thing as it is new to me. Always used points in the past but space restrictions is taking me towards a traverser! Many thanks.

So very true especially the cab roof removal! How much time I have spent trying to get the damn crew inside a tank engine, let alone in a decent pose! Cheers.

Any update on the Johnson tank?

Are their banana vans reasonably accurate John?

Thank you everybody, answered my questions! I wonder why the manufacturers bother producing a possibly incorrect model! Why not get a reliable photograph &/or data & go from there & give us something accurate or very close to the original. Anyway saved me a little cash to put towards something else! What a knowledgeable & helpful bunch you all are! Cheers.

I was wondering that John! It is a model for Modellbahn of a Wolverhampton Plant & Machinery Dept wagon in brown livery & numbered ADR486709. I have tried to find that number mentioned anywhere but no luck. I model 1958/59 so I need it to be valid for those dates. Cheers.

I have come across a Dapol limited edition departmental 7 plank wagon & was wondering what year(s) they might have been on the system in departmental service? Would they have still been in BR markings with BR numbers in say 1958/59 or would they have been in departmental service & accordingly renumbered at this time? Many thanks.

For tarpaulin loads I use the paper sheets from Smiths. I wet them thoroughly with water taking care not to split or tear them when wet then squeeze out excess water & shape them around a load wetting again if necessary to hold the shape. Let them dry naturally & they then stay in their moulded position. Seems to work pretty well. See some examples attached. There is a tractor underneath the tarp on that wagon! Cheers.

I can thoroughly recommend the Missenden Abbey weathering course. A great weekend amongst fellow modellers & you will learn a lot. Good value & not too far from Stafford really. Cheers.

Wonderful stuff Robin. What a beautiful project it all is. How great it would all be if we could go & visit (trespass) the real thing in Bristol!

Many thanks Jason for a very quick reply! Most helpful in @ least the crest position is correct on the model! Just need to know the lined green was applied pre 1959. Regards.

Hi All, I am trying to confirm the year (or even also the month) when 6415 & 6419 received the lined green livery. Also can anybody direct me to photos of these 2 locos? Incidentally, on the Bachmann model of 6419 I notice that the late emblem is not positioned in the centre of the tanks as other members of the class but back towards the cab over the centre wheel. Any comments please. I do recall seeing a photo of another member of the class with the emblem so positioned so again a photo of 6419 would be useful! Or it it a Bachmann mistake! Cheers.

2 excellent colours are MIG Dark Mud (for subtle rust colouring rather than rust colour itself) & MIG Rubbel Dust (great for ash colouring). Both are very fine powders superior to any Humbrol or Carrs products.

Agree with Mick. Last autumn I did a Missenden course with Mick & he showed me the Rubbel dust which is great for ash effect. I have used finely ground real ash for yard areas but adding the Rubbel gives a nice contrast on the real ash. Another good powder Mick introduced me to was MIG 'Dark Mud' for rust areas. The usual rust colour powders are too harsh &/or bright & the dark mud is a much more subtle effect. As Mick always says 'restraint & observation' is the key to good weathering. Weather what you see & not what you think you see. Cheers.

When can we expect that Johnson 0-4-4 tank?

Just 'painted' some o gauge track with some Birchwood Casey gun blue for steel. Has darkened the track very well & with an overpaint of track colour enamel it looks very good.

Same course as Tony & completely agree with his comments. I had done some satisfactory weathering without an airbrush before the course but Mick Bonwick showed us, amongst other things, how to use a decent airbrush. On my return from the course I went & bought a Neo by Iwata airbrush & have not looked back. A very experienced & known modeller now wants me to weather some of his superb P4 locos! Thanks to Missenden & Mick for an excellent course. Cheers.

You have a PM.

Thanks to all for your suggestions, spoilt for choice! Regards.