Grovenor

Well now, mine most definitely has a full wave rectifier and it works equally well whichever way round I connect the battery, suggest you try again. And how would Dapol know you had used a battery, its not going to show, but taking it apart and soldering wires in, that's rather obvious. Regards Keith

Here's an automatic version for you. Keith

Never mind the background, I've never seen model wagons with the brakes pinned down. Keith

Well the page does explain the thinking clear enough, spelling mistake on the packet. It will be interesting to see if the imagined market is really there. The rest of his offerings look to be normal toys and the guy may well be suffering from our current economy. Keith

Still where it was a couple of days ago Keith

Put that on my watch list, the power unit from those is very useful. Keith

Someone here needs a santa, http://www.ebay.co.u...9#ht_4106wt_990 Keith

It will be on test soon and once proven we will decide what to do with it. Standard MERG policy is to produce for sale to members if enough demand is established. Whether the design is put in the public domain or not is up to the designer. The skill level is similar to fitting a hard wired decoder in an N gauge loco. There are 6 small wires to unsolder from the factory board, resolder to the new board, then you have to persuade all the bits to fit back together, and the board will need the components soldering on, surface mount components but not too small. Regards Keith

Mmm, I see, the sort of thing that should have gone to York when the director no longer needed it but was privatised instead. Should be motorisable though, however, not my gauge or budget. Keith

please, how about a link? Keith

Not quite, you feed the 16VAC by two wires, this supply goes directly to a bridge rectifier, then a 5V regulator and onto the LED and to the motor circuit. (It does work perfectly on 12V DC despite Dapol's denial and mine is working just fine on a 9V PP3 battery). The other two wires connect to a switch contact, not any kind of return or power source, the switch contact needs to be made briefly (joining the two wires together) to make the signal run to the opposite position, a simple press to make push button is the simplest. Yes This is not to clear, the switch should not provide any power feed just connect the two wires briefly, ie a pulse. This triggers an electronic chip in the signal that runs the motor until it reaches the limit switch in its new position. Yes it has a pair of limit switches, one for each direction of travel, these are simple make contacts soldered to the PCB, once triggered the motor runs until the limit switch in the new position makes and causes the chip to turn the motor off. The control chip has had all the identification markings removed so it is difficult to be certain of the circuit. In MERG we have designed a replacement circuit board that will allow operation from a simple on/off switch so it will always be possible to set the signal to the desired position. Regards Keith

the arm, the red enamel part, is 7.5 mm by 2.6 mm. So just a tad short but very much over width, hence the impression of a short arm.Keith

n scale version here, post is 52 mm tall. Keith

I imagine, if w***o had just asked on here someone would have given him their spare ones Keith

But when you buy it from Gostude it's an antique! Keith

Gold plating them seems to reduce the price Keith

So what has that achieved?, you still need an opening bid more than £500. Keith

Period? Type of signalling? Regards Keith

Going by the cig filters underneath it was perhaps intended as a track cleaner. Keith

A complete list was included in the description! Keith

Yet the text states clearly the shipping is free, but only to the lower 48 states.

The story I remember from the time was that a leather glove was put over the green bulb and the red false fed with a battery. I was a trainee engineer with the LM S&T at the time but I don't now remember where the story came from. Keith

I thought it was 7mm till I read it carefully, superb. Keith

Actually it makes no difference whether you follow Coachman's drawing or gwrman's drawing, they are equally correct alternatives. Personally I go with the 3-way switch approach, you need one with 2 poles and the wiring is essentially the same. (They usually come with 4 poles, the other 2 can be used for operation of point motors if provided later. Regards Keith

I assume PWS is still looking at post #1 Keith PS Why do you suggest signals © and (d) should be miniature arms?