Nigelcliffe

ONLY do this without a decoder fitted (when it is a good test). Applying DC to the motor with a decoder fitted can end in smoke from a decoder...

And when the decoder went "pfffttt" did you put the decoder in the right way up, as well as the right way round ? 21-pin is a complete mess as a standard, there are so many ways to get it wrong !

Relating a model's performance to the prototype assumes that the model is to scale. Very few model railways are scale length; most are compressed in length. So, how do you determine "scale" speed and "scale" acceleration when distance isn't to scale, and there is unlikely to even be a constant scaling factor on a single layout. I can see a value for one person's layout in characterising the speed behaviour of locos (and lots of software will do this for you automatically). But there are so many differences between layouts, and individual's operating approaches, that a general set of data gets meaningless very quickly.

Is anyone else thinking could use the inside of a 7 inch drain pipe, and humming "The Self Preservation Society"....

There's an alternative DC powering method, the "split" or "stacked" power supply. I'm fairly certain this works on these motors (which I've only seen the photos) because of the two diodes on the motor. Two DC supplies, of around 9v to 12v DC(*). Arranged so the -ve of one supply is connected to the +ve of the other. This gives three output wires which one can think of it as -9v, 0v, +9v, or -12v, 0v, +12v. (where zero lies is an arbitrary decision of the person measuring). The 0v goes to the common on all the motors. The -9 and +9 are switched by a SPDT switch, and the single wire from the switch goes to both of the switching terminals. When the motor sees -9v it rotates one way, when it sees +9v it rotates the other. This gives: DC power sources, only one wire from panel to motor (plus common return for all motors) and uses SPDT switch. The same switch can illuminate LEDs on a panel. (*) Critically these supplies must not have the 0v connected to "mains earth". So, two-pin DC power bricks only (ie, no earth wire, or a plastic earth pin). Some three-pin DC power bricks connect the 0v to the mains earth pin, and a simple rule of two-pin only means one avoids the risk. Alternatively, with Brian's preference for standard DC and a DPDT switch; that would also work, but requires two wires from panel to motor (and connecting the two "switched" terminals together with one of the DC wires). Panel indicators could run from the DC output of the switch by wiring the LEDs (and series resistor) over the output - switch one way and a LED lights, the other way and LED doesn't light. Orient the LED so it lights appropriately. - Nigel

I assume your testing was -ve to common, and +ve to one of the terminals. Then discovering the battery had to be reversed to reverse the motor. That does seem to suggest the "AC" idea was correct. Which would also fit with the way people tended to wire their turnouts "back then". A DC supply could be used instead: connect the two "switch" terminals together, and feed the combined pair and the "common" with DC. Reverse the polarity with a DPDT switch. Requires two wires from panel to turnout. An AC version would require two wires plus a common return.

Guesswork from the photos: 3 contacts, so that's likely "left, common, right". (But it might be "left, right, common" or "common, left, right"). Two diodes behind the connectors, and a conventional motor. I can also see some breaks in the tracks, and contacts on the sliding block, which indicates the movement of the block will disconnect power from one side or the other, so motor stops at end of travel. The diodes suggests a couple of possible approaches: a) diodes are to half-rectify AC for operation on AC (really common supply in its day). b) Diodes limit travel in given direction using internal switch - the tracks inside suggest this may be the case, with the sliding block at the end connecting tracks in the top to the tracks in the bottom. So, I'd do the following: Use a 12v DC supply. Put one side (-ve) on the centre contact, and try the +ve to each of the other contacts in turn and see what happens, if the motor auto-stops at one end, try the +ve on the other contact and see if it now runs back. If nothing moves, swap the +ve and -ve over and try again. The same, but with a 16v AC supply. - Nigel

One could contact YAMORC, they're active on the groups.io board for Digikeijs/Yamorc support, so I expect an answer would be forthcoming. One option to ask about would be a common wire from a group of turnouts, then attach to each of the 8 connections on the device, and also what happens if there are two devices covering more turnouts.

Don't need the Life Link board for the MS440 decoder. Read the Zimo manual for MS/MN decoders, it shows precisely the arrangement you are proposing to fit: six 2.7v capacitors in series onto the two wires. Life Link board connects to different wires to the two you have emerging from the side of the MS440. It will work, but is different. MX decoders are a different matter. Again, read the Zimo manual for MX decoders. - Nigel

Morley Controllers offer a centre-off control in a traditional looking case. That would appear to meet your requirements.

You've omitted "MO+" and "MO-" from the upper photo as probably relevant. How to do this ? Multimeter and a diagram showing the 21pin pin-out (lots of those on internet). Identify which pin is the track input (two of them) and see which solder pads connect. Work round all you need - pickups, motor, etc, making notes as you go. Note on the upper photo that L1 and L2 have a component marked on the board. So, its possible that only one side of that component connects to the socket. (Component likely to be either a resistor or an inductive coil, depends on the purpose).

Yes, you're correct, I misread the manual and version numbers.

There are different versions of the LokSound V5 decoders with the MTC-21 pin connection. They have different "logic level" vs "full power" function outputs. I'd guess that was your problem with the DIP switches, though without knowing the exact model numbers of decoders you have used, its hard to be sure. "LokSound V5" has one arrangement. "LokSound V5 DCC" has a different arrangement. There are other small differences as well, such as how the speed curve works and how the acceleration/deceleration values are calculated. (There's also a LokSound V5 MKL, for Marklin's odd-ball arrangements. In these matters, its similar to the "LokSound V5 DCC" for function outputs, but similar to the "LokSound V5" for speed/acceleration.).

Wire it carefully, using "best practise" advice for electrofrog turnouts to change the frog polarity. (Brian Lambert's site is a good source of advice for wiring). Use reasonable wire cross-section for all main feeds from control panel into layout. Short wires to track (and frogs) can be lighter (thinner) wire. Don't use the frog polarity to isolate a siding/junction (ie. extending the frog power into the siding) if there is any possibility of a loco being left in the the track switched by the frog. Instead fit a separate switch for the siding (switch could be associated/attached to the frog if you have an easy way to convert it when changing to DCC). If you have a siding which isolates when the blades of turnout moves, then in DCC, any loco would be "off", which would then turn off sounds and lights. This sort of cascaded isolation in DC can cause DCC problems through junctions; whilst changing turnouts the track beyond the junction may go "on/off". This will cause a sound loco to go dead then restart (not nice). So, best avoid doing it, and instead ensure that track power to plain track for DC use is switched/isolated via different methods. (Cascaded isolation works really well in DC, saves a lot of switch panels and wiring, often means track is "self isolating" based on turnout position. But has problems when converting to DCC ). Ensure there is a method to turn on all track sections, either with switches, or connections underneath to make the conversion from DC with section switches to DCC with all-track live. Connections underneath rather than via a control panel would be theoretically better, but with a small layout this won't matter. And that's it. There is no "magical DCC wire"(*). (* though I can sell you a $100 special audio green marker pen to make sure your CD's play better ).

Whether you can find suitable capacitors in a local electronics store depends on the store. Not all super-caps (things in the 100,000uF and above region) will be suitable, many are designed for low current use (so won't work), some are designed for higher current applications. The "clever circuitry" can be little more than a resistor and a diode; resistor to limit charging current to the capacitor (otherwise the charging in a mili-second would overload and shutdown a DCC system) and the diode to allow maximum outbound current when required. But, it can be considerably more complex than that, Zimo's system on the MS440 allows the use of 15v rated capacitors, yet the decoder is safe on track at well over 20volts, so the Zimo is regulating the voltage at the capacitor. A different decoder, which will have a different manual to consult..... And has two different ways to connect a stay-alive. What applies to one decoder design does not apply to another one.

Can you point to a manual for the Dapol Imperium Next18 ? ( I can't find one online ). I'd expect it to be possible to set a function output to be directional. But, without a manual I'm stuck on details.

I would NOT try attaching the DCC-Concepts device to the decoder you have. The decoder already has the capacitor management circuits built in, and is expecting just capacitors to be added to it. I would recommend following the Zimo manual. In that, the MS440C can accept unlimited capacitors that are at least 15v rated on the output. The manual shows several options, including a block of six "gold caps" rated at 50,000uF. YouChoos are probably the easiest to follow for this sort of thing of the DCC retailers I've checked, they have six gold-caps unwired for £10 (0.3F as six in series = 50,000uF), or £12.50 (150,000uF, physically larger capacitors), or Zimo-badged and wired together for £20. Alternatively, you can buy a capacitors which are >15v rated in various shapes/sizes, eg. YouChoos have a "flat brick" of 6800uF. If there's space, I'd fit the six smaller gold caps (0.3F each, 50,000uF when in series). "Too much" isn't an issue with a Zimo decoder. If you find you have too much energy stored (so the loco can do a comedy run across the bench), then there's a CV in the decoder to say how many tenths-of-second the loco should run before it decides there is no DCC signal and stop the motor. There's an advantage to "lots of stored energy" in a Zimo decoder - should the loco come to a stop on a piece of dirt, it will attempt to move forwards off the dirt to find track voltage (I don't know of any other decoder which tries to do this, and with a big enough capacitor you can see it doing it). This requires lots of energy as a motor which is stationary needs quite a shove to make it move.

Correct for capacitors. Connecting two stay-alive modules in series is likely to be "interesting", but probably not "blue smoke".

Which stay-alives, and which decoders ? In general, just increase the capacitors, there's no need for "two control circuits". Which in turn may be "select the right capacitor chemistry". But, I wonder why you think you need "two". If a decent stay-alive will give 0.5 seconds of run-on (and many are much much more than this), and you've lost power for 0.5 seconds, then you've a track problem. Note that quite a lot of "gold caps" / "supercaps" you'll find on sale from electronics sources are not suitable for stay-alives; they can store a lot of power, but only release it very slowly (eg. to keep a small microprocessor running for hours), rather than release power rapidly for running a motor. One needs to know what you're looking at in specification sheets.

N gauge rolling stock coupling springs. Straighten it out, does the job.

I suspect NOT those. They are for a MTC-21pin connection, which assumes a MTC-21 decoder. A MTC-21 decoder has 21 "sockets" on the decoder and 21 pins on the PCB in the locomotive. The reason for "not" is they're wired and labelled for the MTC-21 pin-out, which isn't the same as the Plux-22 pin-out. 21 pins on the decoder means its a "Plux-22" decoder, so what is needed is a Plux-22 socket.

But it isn't a sound decoder. Plux sound decoders need a minimum of 16 pins.

There is a difference between pickup in the bearing and a thin bit of springy wire on the axle (typically phos-bronze wire). And the bit of wire does a much better job. The 2mm scratchbuilders have been using a bit of springy wire resting on the axle to aid pickup from split frame chassis for decades. Known in 2mm circles as "Simpson springs", they are not really springs, but a pickup. As you're building something small and light, adopting well tested methods from the 2mm world might be worthwhile.

Once the correct number of pins, and type of connector is identified, then... various suppliers sell the corresponding board for placing in the loco. This is by far the simplest way of wiring things. btw. "pins" make me think it may be a Plux-22 (one row of which would be 11 pins). The MTC-21 (aka 21-pin) has a socket on the decoder, and pins on board on the locomotive side.

Moving or enabling the active-brake function is a CV change. Any DCC system which can do normal decoder programming will do it. A more complex issue is attaching brake noises, particularly any scrapes/squeals, to speed such as "just before stop". That is part of the sound project, and to make changes would requires the source files for the project (not what a "coded" download will offer). - Nigel