Nigelcliffe

Have Roads&Rail confirmed which mapping line they are using for F4 controlling sound slot 11? If not, you've got 72 to choose from. *IF* they are using mapping row 10 for this (without that information, you're guessing), then, the CV-R = 32 you've read means sound slot 14. Your method written out is fine, but you've got to do it for the other mapping lines until you find sound slot 11 and sound slot 16 (which could be 71 more times). And then if it were me, I'd want to check the function keys (Control-B for F4 and Control-E for F14) for the mapping row, to check it is the key I think it is. From where you are, I'd check Control-B for mapping row 10 - is that F4 ? If it is, then the information you have from R&R is doesn't make sense. If its not F4, then move on until you've found the row which applies. For example, R&R may (wild guess!!) be using mapping row 36, because that's where the defaults put sound slot 11. Which brings me back to "use a computer to read the entire function mapping table". It will take JMRI an hour (give or take, depends on your DCC system) to read the function map.

The manual shows the "from factory" settings in a decoder. The sound project creator can change those to do what they require for their sound project. In the absence of information from the sound project creator, the only way to be sure you have the "right row" is to read in everything, and look for which row(s) is(are) controlled by which function key. That's a lot of reading of CVs if done manually, so a job for either computer interface from DCC system to JMRI, or a LokProgrammer and ESU's software. Once you've found the rows, you can just change the function key controlling that row. - Nigel

They really need to employ an ergonomist*. Starting question: Why has it got two number pads ? And I agree with njee20 : It screams "Welcome to 1994", it looks like the remote on my VHS video recorder. - Nigel (* chartered ergonomist )

CV54 "autotune" only gets an approximation into the motor control CVs. Sometimes its all that's needed. Sometimes it isn't and further fine-tuning of of the motor CVs will be needed. (And it also depends on the mechanical qualities of the model, if there is slight binding in the mechanism that can confuse the auto-tune behaviour ).

Six-pin is well documented for connecting to them - any search engine will produce the diagram. If it tests out OK (read CVs, operates a motor), then get on to identification through reading CV8. The soldering of extra leads looks shonky, but may be for a stay-alive module - the back looks like a Zimo MX620, and the wires consistent with a stay-alive for those. That would be confirmed with reading CV8, then subsequent CV's for exact identification.

That depends on the LED (and the LED manufacturer's specification sheet....). Without that specification, and assuming its fairly normal, start at around 1kohm (likely enough, but will be very bright LED) to 5kohm or more (will give a less bright LED, but probably bright enough). For experimenting, use LED+Resistor with a 12v DC supply, and see what it looks like.

OK, I don't spend ages looking at Lais decoders. But, I'd suggest your supplier is talking tosh or your memory is wrong. They will likely offer a range of PWM settings for intensity which will allow the dimming of LEDs fitted with suitable series resistors which limit the current flowing(*). But, that dimming doesn't alter the voltage of the function output (even if "dimmed"), which will be track-voltage less a tiny amount. I could give a lengthy explanation as to why "tosh"... short version: if low-voltage and current limited, it can't work with a randomly selected commercially available locomotive. You need series resistors. (* your statement of "resistor to lower the supply voltage" suggests you don't understand how a LED works, or the purpose of the resistor. The resistor is there as a current limiter, and some form of current limiter is needed or LEDs burn up. ). - Nigel

The locos just work, address 47, is address 47. They have addresses stored in the decoders (from your original setup). Nothing else to set. (There isn't a Roster like the old Dynamis, where locos are "stored" in the handset as well, with names, descriptions, etc.. ).

The outputs will be "track voltage minus a tiny bit" as with almost all locomotive decoders on sale. There isn't a "lower voltage" output on most decoders. Possibilities: Decoder CV settings have the output level turned down, so the PWM output is at a very low level, and this accounts for your low voltage (because meter is averaging what it is seeing). But a LED with resistor would glow dimly in this situation. Measuring the wrong thing means faulty diagnosis. Decoder is faulty, or damaged by overloading/shorting the outputs (a LED without resistor connected to the outputs could overload them, whilst the LED itself is damaged by over-current almost instantly.....). LEDs need either a current-limited supply (which a decoder doesn't provide), or a series resistor to limit current. Without limiting the current, they go "bang" very quickly, and present what looks very much like a short-circuit to the power source. - Nigel

As well as current devices, this applies to earlier Lenz handsets, such as the LH100. So, most Lenz systems of the last 15+ years. - Nigel

I would agree with looking seriously at the Z21, if budget goes that far. Has option of "conventional" Roco WiFiMaus handsets (with knob), or smartphone/tablet apps (and several other options as well). If someone really wanted, they could use the PowerCab with the Z21, using the "sniffer" port into the Z21 to accept commands from the PowerCab. It would work (its what the "sniffer" connection is for), but the PowerCab wouldn't be fully integrated with the Z21's setup (PowerCab doesn't get any information back from the Z21). The WiFiTrax option I suggested is a lot cheaper than a Z21. And in this case, price does equate to features, the Z21 can do much more. But, its possible that a PowerCab plus WiFiTrax will do all that is needed, and if "all that is needed" is achieved, then it's cheaper. - Nigel

"Sons" - what would they choose to use ? A smart phone ? If so, what about PowerCab (you already own) and the WiFiTrax unit ? (latter is an interface to smartphone Apps, which are then alternative throttles). If using Android phones and the Engine Driver App, then the volume keys act as speed up/down, as well as touch screen. The ESU Cab Control you mentioned might be OK, but it's going to date very rapidly as it is, essentially, a very old Android Phone with a rather well engineered knob added. But, a few years time and it will be an extremely ancient Android phone.... You can get close to it with any Android Phone, the free "Engine Driver" App, a "USB OTG" cable, and a £20 USB volume control knob from Amazon/Ebay. Result = physical knob, plus touch screen, just lacking a common case.

I vaguely remember a screw underneath, in the vicinity of the cylinders. Then the front end of the chassis can drop, and the whole chassis slides forwards past some lugs in the rear of the body. Its got to be best part of 20 years since I last took one apart, so I might have mis-remembered.

Or in simpler language than Ron used: NUMBER 1 issue - do not ever connect the second ZTC to the track. Put tape over the track outputs of the second ZTC so there are no mistakes. ( Get this wrong and chances are something goes bang!) The second ZTC connects to the first (primary/master) ZTC system via an Xpressnet Cable. In ZTC's case, this is a small round 8-pin cable "mini DIN" cable. You need the right cable, but it is a fairly standard cable, so doesn't have to be a ZTC part. Then, within the second ZTC, follow the instructions to put it into the "slave" mode, where it acts as a second handset to the primary system. Unless you're really determined to stick with a ZTC system, I'd suggest giving moving on to something else. - Nigel

Yes, that's correct. Ideal world the diode is close to the coil, so fixed onto the base of the electromagnet. Only constraints are now: a) no longer works well on AC power, it is DC-only. b) must connect to DC power the right way round.

I've one further comment on the "plans". It would be fine to add just the hardware for layout feedback for the "mainline only rounds" automation. But, I recommend that the wiring for the remainder of the layout is done with provision to add more feedback hardware later should this prove desirable or necessary. The work is little more than identifying what might be a future feedback section, and bringing the wiring for each section to a common location with a connector (Screw terminal block, Wago connector, or similar of choice) which can be later disconnected and the feedback device wiring inserted at this break point. Additional cost of layout construction should be minimal. Done well, this would mean the hassle of installing additional feedback devices later will be little more than the cost of the additional hardware devices. - Nigel

Clearly a 555 timer will do this, just search for a few examples of wiring arrangements. eg, this one-shot example: https://www.dummies.com/article/technology/electronics/general-electronics/electronics-components-555-timer-chip-in-monostable-one-shot-mode-179881/ There are numerous other devices which would do the same, including various things with Ardunio's and the like (but overkill for the job), and there may be ready-built circuits from Amazon/Ebay/China. Of course, if you have to buy some components, pay postage, faff with some prototyping, and a few hours doing it, it could be cheaper to just buy the manufacturer's detector. Whereas if you have a cabinet full of odds and sods of electronics parts and some spare time, it might be a fun thing to build. - Nigel

There is negligible difference in functionality between iTrain and TrainController. So, I'd suspect (2) is the answer. The thread has yo-yo'd around so much that most will have lost interest. But, before jumping into one package or another, I'd suggest some background research into the two software makers. There is a world of difference between the attitude of the makers of the packages to questions from users, the way faults/problems are handled, and overt discrimination against users if you happen to live in certain countries. I'd only consider one of the two makers. "T'other Paul" said this on 18th October in this thread: - Nigel

As indicated by Nick and Ian above, there needs to be something done to stop switches being destroyed. A larger switch with a higher rating will still be damaged by the spike from the coils. It is the back-emf when the power is removed, that creates a big spike which then erodes switch contacts as they are opening. Its also a lot of electrical noise which can upset other things on a layout, such as servo motors, any microprocessor driven device, etc - I've known a layout's entire control gear reset itself from those spikes, and the layout had a 20-Amp DC supply, so no shortage of power. Methods to deal with the spike, and protect the switch with DC power: Reverse diode over coil. Fit as close to coil as possible. Will protect switch from erosion. Ensure diode is correct way round, or the coil won't work! Use a decently sized diode: 5A rated for example. But, still need high current switch and high current wiring. Relay near coil. Moves the spike erosion from the switch to the relay contacts (though a diode on the coil will solve this). High current is no longer at switch. A simple relay alone may still be causing a spike from its coil to the switch, but a typical commercial relay module doesn't present such an issue. Mosfet switch module (or other transistor device). Protects push button as only trivial small current flowing in switch. Keeps high current under layout. Doesn't need diode over coil. Downside is typically they requires 3v to 5v at switch to trigger their operation - that is not hard to arrange with a few resistors if there is a higher DC voltage available in the panel. At a minimum with DC supply, fit the diode to the coil. I'd use either a Relay module or a Mosfet module - either are a couple of pounds on Ebay or Amazon. - Nigel

Thanks, post above edited to include this.

There's a fairly steep learning curve, because what you're asking to do is in the moderately advanced level of decoder changes in an extremely complicated decoder. There's not a huge amount of point trying without the cable connected to the Zephyr-Express. 1) Start the DecoderPro option. (*) 2) Get the connection sorted out (from the JMRI page I gave earlier, you want the full-features access, not the minimal programmer). This should bring up the "roster" view, which will be empty (I think it still has help text in the various panels if empty). 3) Check connectivity to the Zephyr, you should be able to turn the track power on/off from JMRI. And, if you open the "loconet monitor" and then use the Zephyr to control a loco, you should see lots of commands flying around. (Optionally you could open an on-screen throttle and drive a loco.) This proves the software is talking to your Zephyr. 4) decoder stuff - loco on programming track, and "identify decoder". It should, eventually, offer you some ESU decoders, you want a LokSound (Edit - Kaput below says the loco is a "DCC" version, even though those are US-market and different - blame ESU for poor product labels), and presumably a version 5. 5 ) Give the decoder a name (anything that makes sense to you for the future, "Thomas the Tank Engine" is acceptable). Then open "comprehensive" programmer. There will be lots of tabs. Start with "basic" and get it to "read sheet". The decoder should populate address, etc. on the basic sheet... That will also let you change address and "write changes to decoder" (usual action for writing anything to a decoder). The stuff you're looking for to move functions around is the "function map". This needs reading in. It will take an age to do (could be an hour), because there are hundreds, if not thousands, of CV's to read. It only needs reading once for the loco. Once read, you can look at making changes. It ***is*** really complicated for an ESU Loksound because the decoders are really complicated. What you're probably looking to do is alter the "mapping line" which is currently controlled by the F2 key, and just changing the key on that line to F9 (or whatever you wanted), and the same on the mapping line controlled by F9... (* there is no real difference between "DecoderPro" and "PanelPro", both are exactly the same software. The only difference is which window is shown first on starting the software. And blame me for the design of the Roster window - I did that work over a decade ago with Kevin Dickerson (who now owns Coastal DCC), and nobody has wanted to make major changes to the Roster view since. ). - Nigel

As per Pete above, the Zephyr Express has a USB port on the back. JMRI will work through that. Just requires a standard USB lead. https://www.jmri.org/help/en/html/hardware/loconet/DCS52.shtml Unless you have a different Zephyr, such as the Zephyr Xtra (DCS51), or the original DCS50 one from almost 20 years ago.... If using one of the earlier Zephyrs, you may be bumping into all sorts of other issues around maximum function numbers, and manual entering on the keypad requires using decoder offset values as well as index values (which is well into total madness territory to keep everything in line). With those, a USB device such as PR3/4 or LocoBuffer is required for the computer, and solves all the keypad limitations. - Nigel

Kapton tape - expensive stuff which is reasonably heat resistant (so soldering by it is possible). Difficult to form into tight shapes. Doesn't always stick to things well. Can be difficult to remove and re-fix. Tamiya masking tape - expensive, (though not that expensive), not heat resistant. Easy to form into tight shapes, easy to cut to different shapes. Sticks when you want it to. Stands a certain amount of re-fixing. As basic level insulation, both achieve the same result in stopping metal parts touching things they shouldn't. I much prefer the Tamiya tape, its far far easier to work with, can paint it if it needs colouring, etc.. - Nigel

I'd recommend using a USB cable from the Zephyr Express to your computer, and load JMRI. Use DecoderPro to read the current function map (it will take quite a while, possibly an hour) and then set things how you'd like them to be. Its much simpler than keying in CV values manually. The difficulty with LokSound locos is the sheer number of CV's and also the index values (CV31/32). DecoderPro looks after all of them for you. ( I can't decypher the instructions you have above from reading the ESU manual. That's not saying they are wrong, just I can't match the combinations of index values and CV's. One or two elements I can match, but not most of them. ) - Nigel

Comments on Idd's photo of the servo linkage. What's shown works, but possibly unnecessarily complex... If the uncoupler plate and rod is heavy enough to fall under gravity, then all that's needed is the end of the rod to rest on the servo arm and be pushed up. No linkages to bend up and fit! Megapoints servo controllers are fine. There are cheaper ways with numerous published DIY designs (some extremely simple), or there are kits from MERG.