WIMorrison

Paul The are Common Anode Iain

I have some bi-colour LEDs that I want to use for directional lighting in some old locos which are using MX617N decoders. I think that I can use the white and yellow outputs of the decoder to the cathode (white at one end and red at the other) with the return through the black wire for half wave lighting, but that suggests to me that the red and white would both be on at the same time at each end because the polarity of the output from the decoder is constant - clearly this is not acceptable What I really want to do is have the white and red on (directional) when the loco is running free (and like this always in a single carriage railcar) but I want to be able to switch off the red tail llght when the loco is in a train. I have fried my brain tonight trying to work it out and and happy to admit defeat - here hoping that someone here has the circuit to hand and can post it here for me Thanks

I would go with DR4018 for the solenoid motors and Dr4024 for the servo motors - both relatively cheap. The computer operation (not programming) is actually irrelevant as the computer will talk to your command station and the command station wi issue and accessory command to switch the motors - that is why I wondered if you meant programming, which you don't

What sort of motor? servo, solenoid, stall - all different and what do you mean program from computer? all affect the choice of decoder

second is better, especially if LEDs are different colours as you will be able to change the values to get the same brightness

They have been hinting at this for quite a while - great pity that they have made it a fixed item, screwed to the facia plate, as whilst this will tell you the output of the Command station that isnt a lot of use when you wnt to know if there is a voltage drop around the layout. Brilliants idea, just not quite what is required. EDIT - price is also steep at around the same or more as RRampmeter, which is far from cheap (and you can get RRAmpMeter which is portable for less!)

In your scenario there is heat - lots of it in the bulbs and this is where the work is being done converting the electrical energy into a little bit of light and a large amount of heat - put you hand on the bulb if you don't believe me Now put your hand on the connector, it should be cold - if it isn't then there is a resistance in the connector and some work is being done as the energy is converted to heat. the formula is simple; I*I*R=W or current * current * resistance = watts which shows that the current passing through anything doesn't matter if there is no resistance, watts will always equal zero because anything multiplied by zero is zero. It is ONLY when there is a resistance that watts can exist and these watts will generally appear as heat (light is a visible form of heat).

The PA2 is certainly the one that you hear owners proclaiming about the excellent repair service that they received from Gaugemaster. Do the others never need repairing?

Where did you find this information about Molex reliability please? They make hundreds of different types of plugs and sockets and I have to say that of all the connectors I have used Molex are the ones that stand out for never having needed to be replaced.

if you watch it, it shows you how to connect the power supply (about 2/3 way through at 3:09)

First video here shows you what you need to know http://www.zimo.at/web2010/products/InfMXULF_EN.htm

Have you thought about Molex connectors as used in computers? they are all non reversible and available from the far east cheaply, especially in bulk. e.g 4.2mm Pitch Multi Plug Connector Sets Molex 2 ~ 24 Way Male + Female + Terminal

They certainly look like they will work however you could always ring Gaugemaster or write to them and get the definitive answer because they sell the item and are therefore more liable to know if they meet your needs

A good set of instructions on how to use the PSU - assuming it is ATX which almost are these days here. It also provides the outputs for the various pins. https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/blog/convert-atx-psu-to-bench-supply.html very useful supply of a good DC supply

will the points operate individually? if they will then you will need 4 x switches.

It doesn't switch the frog polarity, you would use the point motor to do this. You can use it for more than just switching points though, just not polarity

If the locos are not DCC Ready which will mean you have to 'hard wire' each one then look at using the ZIMO MX617N - there isn't a N-Gauge chassis yet that I haven't managed to make work using this chip - and it is cheap, only £20!

These motors are even better https://www.dcctrainautomation.co.uk/mp1-point-switch.html i have 16 of them now, will be using them for everything going forward

Hasn't this been answered here?

Either z21 (little z and white box) or DR5000 - your only real choice ;)

Other than in your use of terminology (one letter) you are not wrong. When the loco is DCC Ready you can leave these components connected, especially as they are often buried down in the chassis and without dismantling the entire loco you cannot get to them. Plus if you want to remove the chip, refit the blanking plug, and sell the loco as DCC Ready then you will need to refit these items

Reading this article may provide some clarity for you https://www.nmra.org/sites/default/files/standards/lcc_faq_handout.pdf

@Crosland - please ensure that your criticisms are relevant to the discussion and not your desire to show how knowledgeable you are. I have ONLY ever referred to DCC Ready locomotives, I have not referred to converting locos that are not DCC Ready and therefore do not contain the circuitry to enable the simple plugging in of a decoder. I repeat, on a DCC Ready locomotive you DO NOT need to remove anything other than the DC blanking plug which you replace with the decoder of your choice.

This implies that you consider that the OEMs do not know what they are doing and that you know better than them. if the OEM has placed these components anywhere else than on the DC blanking plug then they clearly intend that they are meant to remain on the loco when you convert it to DCC. There is not a single instruction form any manufacturer that you remove anything from anywhere on the loco when converting to DCC. You are simply instructed to remove the blanking plug and insert the decoder and that is all that needs to be done. you do not need to dismantle a loco to remove any other components to convert to DCC.

I know this, what I want is for @Crosland to explain why he says you must remove these from a motor when the manufacturer of a DCC Ready locomotive has fitted them in a manner that prevents removal without dismantling the loco - to my mind they do not intend that you remove them and I know from practice that leaving them on has no impact upon the operation of the loco, which goes totally against what he says.