AdeMoore

Ah glad the question was asked I was going to run off and do a coal wagon that sits close to work with my iPhone. Glad I didn’t waste my time doing that. The additional software you need for scaling to was another gem that I wouldn’t have known about, thanks for sharing. Cheers https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/145232-3dflow-and-the-anycubic-photon-3d-dlp-printer/

Hi Chris thanks for looking in and your advice. I was abreast of things Link. Various modes turn up on eBay. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283518378977 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273891870796 these two from the second batch still with problems though as reported in the topic I linked to. Listings turn up daily so I imagine a lot are with problems the owners can’t solve or feel done after buying a lemon! ill keep low bidding and searching options including the 3D option. Cheers All comments welcome.

Nice that. Is it air brush or rattle can Jon?

Not an update as such! But. Also Fathers Day present from Jack and Ada-Jane! Oh yes, first flick through it’s pretty amazing the info between those covers. So I think a bit of 009 will be making an appearance. with that in mind, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heljan-Lynton-Barnstaple-Railway-760-Exe-/123797974607?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 tempted! Although, Do fancy a 3D printer been reading a lot in those pages. Downloaded Any Rail today to have a play. Potentially I have a space 2.58m x 2m for the layout so not huge more thoughts soon. Also just up the line from Barnstaple Pete is building Ilfracombe worth a look and a follow.

This is coming on lovely Pete, getting an itch to get mine underway looking at your progress. Enjoying the journey with you. Some complicated track there! At least I won’t have that at Barnstaple Town! You maybe interested in my saved collection of Ilfracombe photos Link I dare say you have them all but you never know. keep up the good work. Cheers

I’ll have a basin full of this! Fascinating stuff and a fan myself. My lad now 27 last opened a book with me probably 19 years ago, I’m gonna have to dig them out again. Thanks for bringing the memories back, subscribed. cheers

Replying to my own question I see now Monkeysarefun says the free version is sufficient. i also know that £134 is a cheap price once you add the chassis the 3D costs in. But nowhere near the satisfaction! Cheers

Interesting topic and one I’m tempted by initially looking at the Aldi offering. But then I was taken by Marks tutorial on blender Here he uses the Photon Blog here . which led me back to RMweb and Mike Trice and Jason’s topics here. I’ve been pondering a 009 L&B loco for a future layout I’m planning. But a Heljan price tag of £189.00 ish or a bargain £134.00 seem up there so I tried searching out a 3D print or kit but cheaper than Backwoods L&B 2-6-2 or Langley Body only . Nothing doing but found this CWR Loco Body - Prairie 2-6-2 £35.00 + £3.50 post from memory. Well maybe that could be a start scratch aid. Then I went looking on CWR’s own site and contacted the owner as there, as right on the home page was a Red Manning Wardle https://www.cwrailways.com/ but the new owner Tim doesn’t have anything on it and presumes it was a one off. So asked about the one the Ffestiniog shop was advertising he’d look into it. Tim came back he’d found a fair few. £35 + £4,50 post and packing! Wow no salesman l guess. I had dropped the hint to. So that brought me to, well how about having a go myself and this section of the forum. Mike Trice topic particularly interested me Here I could really see what a journey may be. I wondered about blender and found Dave Sutton’s (Chris p bacon) ref. To Tinkercad which kinda works on an iPad! Read to lazy to get the laptop out! All things considered this post jumped out at me By monkeysarefun whip out the camera take some photos or download enough if you could find them, put them into some software Boom Fanny’s your Aunt one 3D loco body! 20 minutes of software learning he says! Sounds awesome. So what do the panel here think, an option worth considering? Will the free version of 3dflow do it Link I mean make the file the photon needs to produce a 3D print? There never is a shortcut and I’m sure I’ll enjoy the journey if I invest in a printer and have to learn a Cad software. Its the software process that there seems to be many different options to chose from, you hope you’ve reasearched enough and don’t waste time on something you can’t master! Im aware the loco body probably won’t print in one hit due to size so straight away not that very simple process I was hoping for. All comments gratefully received. Cheers

Cheers Jon valuable info. For me to use in the future.

Nice work Jon, can I ask what glue you use for the dome etc? Cheers

Cheers for that Jon, certainly won’t be the Antex at £102 of our English pounds! the second one maybe, though my useless iron is probably good for white metal. food for thought. Thanks for the info.

I wonder if a 50w may be the better choice I’ve nothing thicker than 0.5mm to solder to. not bought it yet still canvassing opinion. Might just go 80w anyway, I know I’ll be able to be quick then in and out on a joint. Cheers

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Antex-SQ8W270-HP80-80W-Mains-Soldering-Iron-/131506472459 So is that one dirt cheap Jon? Seen in both Eileen’s and Squires but a pound or five with post dearer. Cheers Ade

The suspense!

Brilliant that weathering Tom, I know it might be a trade secret as it’s your business, but! what do you use for the rust effects they look particularly spot on. Cheers

Result that Jon. All steam ahead now! Cheers

Umm reading the reviews this jumps out “Defiantly not a 48 watt iron, perhaps a 15 watts one as it takes a lot longer to heat up (I spent 20 years as a electronics technician), seems okay for small jobs but it will struggle with larger pieces. Has started humming but still working after a few hours use. After a month of light use the metal bit holding the soldering iron spring has dropped off. You are better off buying a decent iron.” I was recommended it by Charlie Bishop off YouTube I see he’s upgraded to!

Ha like that Dave a skirt to hide it all, I may invent one! Yes I use a fibreglass pen to aid the clean up. Yes one of those brass wool jobs was what I meant above. cant seem to crack soldering the bars individually hence trying for a pair at once. Hi Simon no news to me I’ll take a look thanks for the link. Hi Jon you could be right mines only a cheapy https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01186R3AE/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=charliebish0c-21&creative=6738&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01186R3AE&linkId=3d514b2642a02de8ca79c23a2acd713b But 48W and 480 deg allegedly. But I have to wind it to maximum on this, that’s 0.5mm brass I’m trying to solder to. It seems funny trying to remelt the join between the cover and the brass plate on max with the first lot of flux gone up in smoke, I keep the flux going on and then the solder eventually remelts, no flux added after the initial soak it never looks like melting. I’ll look at Simons link see if I can learn anything. Cheers thanks all.

Thanks Jon, certainly tried all those. I do you the sponge to clean everytime that came on the stand. The one at a time method proved to be the issue, to get the solder so I could insert the 2nd always made the first run and fall off! I just seem to need so much heat sometimes laying the tip on its side so more tip is in contact with the brass on the remelting goes. Always feeding in flux to, otherwise no amount of heat will get the solder to run again for another attempt. thanks for some help/advice. Cheers

Where you may be interested to find my other ramblings https://www.westernthunder.co.uk/index.php?threads/starting-out-in-pre-1971-kit-building.7101/page-2 andif I give up here! https://www.westernthunder.co.uk/index.php?threads/wantage-tramway-jane-no-5-in-4mm.7151/ Cheers

Right done a tiny bit more but need advice. More on that in a bit. first a bit of progress cut out some Cylinder wrappers? And managed to solder them on. Above the successful attempt to keep cylinders lined up while soldering the wrappers. Now the use of 70 deg solder has come to bite me, the valve chest plate let go and slipped. Sorted below. Above after many attempts god the rear cylinder cover on with the slide bars! about 3rd go removing and cleaning up between each go. I didn’t show the attempt with brass rods in the cylinder holes! Soaked the rod in WD40 and thought that would stop the holes being soldered over! Fail drill the holes out, clean etc etc. Here we go below on the next cover clean, flux, 145 deg solder. Got it to solder eventually cleaning and loads of flux it did. But I cut the wrong end of the slide bar fret! Try as I might, as the two bars are no longer joined by fret, I can’t get them positioned together to solder. I’ve tried probably for 2 and a half hours! I’ve probably annealed it Ive had so many goes. Below are the two slide bars, now I think (refreshed after tea) I could drill a couple of holes in the end of a dowel and insert them in to hold them to enable the soldering. I was using a clothes peg but they moved and twisted in a peg. Any ideas folks? Soldering the brass is still a massive problem, I’m gonna invest in a proper steel ball iron cleaner see if that helps better than a Brillo pad I’m currently using. This new software is not great on an iPad this has taken twice as long to post this as it used to Photos miss sized then accidentally deleted etc! ive not been idle but been using WT more All comments greatfully received until next time Cheers

Top notch that Chris, the acrylic paint and weathering look particularly good. Gonna see it on WT real soon? Cheers Ade

Hi Tom just found Tim Horn on Flickr and the boards fror Cwm in early form there. Here 8 photos in total. interesting to see, no wonder your back scene looks good just in white paint it’s one continual curve. I don’t think you’ve posted any early build photos here on the thread? I looked back at the first 10 pages quick and didn’t see any? Though I think I have seen them on your blog that you used to link to in you signature. Nice work as ever hope the weathering businesses is taking off real well. Cheers Ade

Like them both, the layout is very inspiring, I do prefer it in its extended form minus the helix to fiddle yards. How much has that improved things? cheers

Nice photos Mike as ever, is the 9F and 100t tank new to you? Cheers