SteveyDee68

Asking the collective wisdom of the forum (and perhaps The Johnster in particular, as he alludes to experiments in an earlier thread re: realistic couplings) as to what the tiny numbers on Bachmann tension lock couplings are all about. I have been retrofitting narrow profile tension lock couplings to an assortment of wagons I've picked up via eBay and from an old collection in the loft (Mainline, Airfix/GMR) and was happy with the improved look (compared to Hornby/Lima tension locks). However, (as mentioned in a previous thread) a Dapol van with "droopy" couplings causes me issues. On closer inspection, other couplings in NEM pockets seem to be at very slightly different heights too. It isn't a question of using "cranked" couplings - literally the same couplings are at slightly different heights! Some wagons only coupled with particular ends, or to certain wagons and not others. That is when I noticed the different lengths of coupling "heads" (the open bit the hook engages with) ... these seem to correspond with numbers moulded onto them. I therefore tried to standardise on No 2 mouldings. But then the NEM pockets themselves also have different numbers, and sometimes letters! Is there some kind of method to these numbering schemes? I've noticed that No 2 pockets seem to incline couplings upwards on a swb wagon, but No 4 pockets appear level. Has anyone any advice on finding the ideal combination to use? Please don't suggest AJs, Spratt & Winkle, Kadee or three links - I'm sticking with tension locks for now, but want them as reliable as possible. I will then try the paper clip method of adding auto uncoupling with magnets, but first things first! Sorry for the long post! Any constructive suggestions very much appreciated.

A late update... Have had responses (measured and polite) which indicate that in my intoxicated state I wasn't as rude as I thought I'd been! Mind, one seller was perplexed at my comment about Hattons killing his market ... it was for a Freightliner class 57, and I don't think Hattons have plans to make that one! The copy and paste function for a grovelling apology has proven so very useful... LOL! As for blaming my friends ... of course I acknowledge that I could at any time have said no to another top up, but as I normally live an almost teetotal existence the point at which I could make the decision to decline was rapidly overtaken by the effects of the alcohol I was drinking. [I suppose I was a little like Ford Prefect when drinking "That Old Janx Spirit" and attempting to play psychokenetic games, when the known effect of "That Old Janx Spirit" is that it immediately dampens psychokinetic powers. Like Ford, I guess I too played to lose! (HHGTTG)] Definitely lifted the lid on the id - as I've had more responses I've noticed that I have made a lot of comments about (IMHO) overpricing items, especially when looking at newer, better detailed and mechanically superior versions of the same with literally £10 difference in cost to those being asked on eBay for secondhand items. I also discovered I put some (insultingly) low bids on some BuyItNow or BestOffer items ... after all, my bids might just be the best offer they got! One seller thought I had missed "1" off the front of my two digit bid, and said that a bid of that amount would be acceptable. Thankfully I put silly low bids in and not silly high ones! Lesson learnt - no more eBaying when on the sauce. Thanks for all the kind responses and words of advice! Steve

Being far more sober than what I was a few hours ago, I think I can give you a partial answer (perhaps) because I used to have an ioniser to clean the air (negative charged particles). It used to get dust collecting around and in front of the needles as negatively charged particles released dust they had attached whilst positively charged. (I think that was the reason) So maybe an ioniser could be wired to your brushes to deliver a negative charge to the locos etc, so that dust isn't attracted to them after dusting. Don't static grass applicators work using the same principle? Steve S

Thanks - didn't know I needed these until you showed them. On my "want" list ASAP

Er.... what?

I bought an "upgraded" Hornby 25 of eBay... I sorted out the problem with the power bogie not swivelling properly (yay!) Now I need to somehow sort out the buffer height (cos it TOWERS over everything else ... thanks, Hornby, not) Your headcode issue is small fry in comparison. I'd suggest contacting Bachmann, then Peter's Spares, then doing some modelling and fashion them yourself. Sorry to not be more helpful - I blame myself for the copious amounts of alcohol I have drunk before firing up RMWeb and reading/answering questions in this section. Don't you just love predictive text - lets you post with correct spellings when phished! LOL!! Steve

What is it? A roller to impregnate cobbles? Edit think I meant to say "impress" but spell checker caught me out!

Silly questions - is that PECO code 75 bullhead rail (flexitrack)? If so, nice! Am impressed. If not, what?! Thanks

Ooooooh! Me likely!! I pass IKEA (Manchester) every day ... Resist... must resist...

Hi Ian If you've not come across it before might I point you at Scalecenes by John Wiffen? As you are in the US his downloadable buildings might be just the ticket! Certainly his lock keeper's cottage or crossing keeper's cottage might fit very nicely into your layout. No connection other than impressed customer! Steve

Okay. A slightly unusual topic. About an hour ago I logged into eBay and did a search (as is my wont) like many fellow RMWebbers. I then slept for a bit. Oh, okay. I admit it, not so much "slept" as "passed out". I blame my friends for plying me with two bottles of red wine, 2/3rds of a bottle of Baileys and a neat rum.) The point is, I have just sat up, almost stone cold sober (well, with the ability to type without spelling errors and grammatically correctly (thank you whichever AI assisted in THAT particular process) with the realisation that I have messaged many (oh, I mean MANY) sellers questioning their sanity at asking for the prices they have! This wasn't random, I hasten to add. I didn't message 'Chancer2015' and say "£35 for a Hornby 0-4-0 are you a professional comedian?" Oh no, my friends. First I did a search for "Freightliner" Why? I have no idea!! I've bought some "modern image" locos and stock but am more inclined towards green diesels and end of steam for a dockside shunting layout at present! So, I got my results in. I then responded via the "Ask seller a question" mechanism... I humbly ask, in a cold sweat of terror of being forever banned from eBay in the future, how do I go about undoing the damage I may have done whilst under the influence of MANY and VARIED alcoholic beverages, of asking questions such as... "Ha ha ha! Seriously?!" "You do know that Hattons are releasing a model that makes your's look like Brio in comparison." "Lima did a good body shell, but Bachmann beats it hands down. And Hattons will make it look like Hornby Dublo - three rail!" "I can get a Bachman "Buy It Now" for less than your Lima starting price... Are you on drugs?" Maybe I just said what we are all thinking, but an hour's worth of sobering up has made me realise that I may have alienated an awful lot of eBay sellers, even some that I've purchased from in the past (cringe - a certain outlet in Sh*ffi*ld springs to mind!). Problem is, I was sooooo wasted that I don't fully remember who I contacted!! Guess I may find out in due course .... oh curse alcohol and the availability of devices capable of transmitting our unfiltered thoughts! I feel an urge to email Radio 2 asking forgiveness ...

Might be five years late but WOW! Excellent ship modelling, Carl. However, many of the construction photos are not showing up when I viewed the thread today. Have you thought of creating an online book charting the building of your ships, showing construction steps and maybe some hints and tips to budding 4mm shipwrights? I, for one, would be willing to buy such a book and download it as a reference source. Best wishes Steve S

Stupid question of the day... DC layout - planning on being neat and having a “bus” to which all droppers are connected. Is plastic coated 1.5mm professional copper speaker wire suitable for a one engine moving inglenook? Thanks in advance Steve

Any exhibitions planned for 2019? There are several "go to" layouts I look to for inspiration for my own inglenook, and Brewery Sidings is one of them. Would love to see the layout in the flesh! Steve

This has to be one of the best mods to a Metcalfe kit I have seen so far. Brilliant! So good, in fact, I feel the urge to steal it sorry be inspired to replicate it! Watching with interest. Steve S

Thanks for the all the responses. I plan to ditch the traction tyres asap, as per many negative comments about them on the forums. I've already "fettled" my class 25 for better bogie movement - someone had added extra lead/plasticine weight, but it was pressing against the ends of the motor bogie - so am not averse to "tinkering" with models if they weren't too expensive in the first place! No way am I butchering Bachmann locos until I have seriously raised my skill levels! My aim is to have "reasonable" detailed locos that run well enough for an inlenook inspired "mini" (rather than micro) layout, using tension lock couplers for ease of use, so the info regarding coupler height is also very useful. Thanks again fo the help.

Yet more assistance sought! I recently won a Hornby class 25 and a class 29 from a well known auction site (before scoring a Lima class 33 and a more modern Hornby class 73 more or less by accident!) and upon opening have noticed that both Hornby locos appear to tower over my (mainly) Bachmann rolling stock. The loco buffers only just contact the wagon buffers. I know that back in the Hornby Triang days that all their products were top heavy - I have an old van that stands head and shoulders above any other stock - but I thought Hornby had sorted this out a long time ago. So, are the buffer heights of these two locos correct, or if I park them up next to a Bachmann class 25 am I going to see a noticeable discrepancy? If the latter, any suggestions about how to remedy? I did do a forum search using the new software and I found a thread from 2017 asking how far a class 25 can be improved, but it doesn't mention ride height. Nor does it mention replacement wheel sets to get rid of the awful traction tyres. Fitted on the power bogie, so any advice on that also sought (if simply which manufacturers to contact). Many thanks to the collective wisdom in advance, and congratulations to Andy on the new website design. Regards Steve S

Thanks for this davetheroad - it is most illuminating. I wondered about replacing the coupling with a spare by Bachmann but it is the floppy mount that is the issue. Being a bit dim for a moment, did you glue the mount to the 5mm packing piece to fix the coupling in place? If so, can the wagon so modified still make it around PECO medium radius point curves? I just got a second Dapol wagon from the local model shop - that one doesn't suffer from coupling droop! Go figure! However, I may avoid their wagons in future no matter how much of a bargain they may seem as - for the moment at least - tension locks are how i am proceeding and they need to work reliably. Would it be possible to post a picture of your coupling height gauge? As a returning novice, that would help me set up my own. Regards Steve

Advice sought... eBay purchase of nice looking Dapol van wagon, the tension lock couplings "droop" and won't line up with anything else. Is this a known issue with Dapol couplings? Any suggestions if a fix? Many thanks Steve S

I really like your plan, especially as it allows lengthier modern stock in the sidings. My own first attempt at restarting in the hobby is almost exactly the same length but a little wider, and I am just finishing my own "plywood beam" baseboard, although my woodworking/finish isn't a patch on yours. Where did you get the foam board for the track bed? Looking for an alternative to cork... If my final plan ends up resembling your own, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery! Steve

Thank you for this. I did try a search but it found *every* instance of "stay alive" and "DC" so overwhelmed with responses, and after reading about a dozen realised that I simply hadn't yet got the hang of the search facility, as they weren't addressing the "stay alive for dummies" question I was asking! Hmmm. Food for thought (as in how the heck do you fit a chip *and* a stay alive in a tiny 0-4-0?!) Steve

Hi Silly question of the day... Have read - and seen as well via video - the incredible benefits of fitting "stay alive" capacitors to short wheelbase locos. However, these always seem to be sound fitted, DCC locos. As I am using DC (and will continue to do so for the foreseeable future), are "stay alive" capacitors available for DC locos/motors/systems? Apologies if this seems a very foolish question to ask! Regards Steve

Having just finished 150 pages on the ET thread by the above, I would make the suggestion that the OP takes a look at Gordon's excellent work before rushing out to buy sleepers and plastic chairs! Gordon's handmade track using copperclad strip and solder looks pretty damn good to me, and when I eventually try building my own points I'll be following his methods like a dedicated Padawan! I can see the attraction of correctly modelled chairs on track, but I think Gordon's philosophy is the one I shall follow.

Dear Gordon I have, at last, read through all 150 pages of your ET thread. I feel like I have lived your layout with you, and must add my voice to the many others who have thanked you for sharing your ups and downs over the years. As a returning modeller at the stage of shuffling some second hand medium radius PECO points around to find an interesting combination to "play" at shunting, your hand built trackwork seems beyond reach and yet your instructive text and photos makes it all seem achievable, if not now then in the near future. I will continue to follow with keen interest and, in the meantime, wish you good health and happy days. Regards Steve S PS My friend introduced me to golf and I found it a perfect antidote to stress, as all you can (must) concentrate upon is that little white ball. However, my idea of a "good round" is to return with same number of golf balls I set out with!

I know this post is a little Ltd, but have been rereading your thread as the simplicity of track plan and the pleasing arrangement of the (Metcalfe) buildings plus the cobbled inset rack is inspiring (and helping me to visualise my own dock based shunting layout). What I noticed in the video are the - what I think are/were - limited edition Dapol vans in private owner liveries (I'm guessing they are because recently seen some on eBay at silly prices!). I have a plain old BR livery Dapol van, but am having issues with "droopy coupling" a little like what I could see in your video. Do you have any suggestions how to fix this, or has this not been an issue for you?