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What a fantastic job Obadiah, of such an interesting prototype. I often wonder if Mr Bulleid had had more time we would have seen more use of the valve gear.

Excellent work Jack, really impressed with the bogie brakes.

Wow Andy, you don't let the grass grow, in the time you've built at least three layouts, I haven't even managed one! I'll keep watching as I enjoy the tips, photos, videos and banter, keep it up.

Gents Found this on YouTube of the Mogul being turned at Didcot (pushing it round rather than using the crank handles), hope this helps on how long to turn.

Dave The finish of your work never ceases to amaze me, if I didn't know it was 4mm/ft I would expect it to be a bigger scale. Keep up the good work, it inspires me to do better in future.

Tony Love the little electric locos, I'm now dreaming up a scenarios where I could use them!

Hi Gents, don't know if this will be useful on the discussion on the valve gear, but whilst walking past Eddystone yesterday I took a couple of photos of the interesting bit: - Sorry about the number of similar shots but I wanted to get as much detail as possible. As @Michael Edge says there is a short link between the rocking link and the valve spindle to translate the rocking motion to parallel motion. Hope this is useful.

Hi Gents I discovered that you can make a DCC socket from some modular connector and a bit of Vero board, see my Workbench post, although I have found that Maplins no longer sell the connector. I also use this connector to make plugs and sockets for connecting motors, tender to loco connections, etc. I have found the connector strip on RS Components site: - Winslow 2.54mm Pitch 32 Way 1 Row Straight Socket Strip Hope this is useful.

Steve Love the LED/optical fibre set-up, who supplies the LED holder/connectors. Also do you use a resistor between the battery and the LED?

Really liking the injector Dave, they look very similar to Drummond's injectors/location used later. How do you hold it all together to solder, I've found in the past (with the Markits clack valves) that things tend to shift and fall apart when you solder the next bit on or do you solder all at once?

Hi everybody, the piece on the left hand side of the D15 back-head looks like a representation of a vacuum brake, this is a photo of the T9 at Swanage: - The vacuum brake is the is the large lump left of the gauge frame, the brown handle on the front is the small ejector, the handle on the left is the brake valve itself and the wheel on top is the steam shut-off. Hope that helps.

Excellent build Nile, the loco really looks the part. Brilliant idea for a removable cab roof, I may have to borrow that in the future if you don't mind.

Right after months of procrastination (it was October that DLT noticed that the chassis was too far forward) I have finally taken the DJH L class loco apart, shortened the frames and reassembled. First I removed the boiler, took the chassis off and de-soldered the two captive nuts. I shortened the frames by filing by around 1.5mm off the rear end: - I then remounted the chassis in its new position and tightened the two nut & screws and checked the new position of the axle hole; if you look at the bottom of the splasher you should be able to see a scriber marking the centre line of the axle: - I then re-soldered the two nuts into position and then put the wheels back in the chassis: - During this work I managed to knock off all the lamp brackets from the front of the loco, to be fair I had (lazily) attached them using super-glue, so I only have my self to blame; here they are all soldered back on: - Lastly a general view of the loco and tender after the work was complete; don't know why I cannot hold the camera horizontal, but you will have to make do with the loco going up hill! Now that I have managed to correct that little issue I can finish the remainder of the build. I'm happy with the undercoat on the SEF R1 (see photo above) after doing some filling and couple of more coats; so hopefully this week sometime it will be going black. The R1 is being built as 31174 which had a flat topped dome and Ross pop safety valves, it will have the early BR emblem and no lining; 1955 (chosen time line) it was shedded at St. Leonards (74E). Hope you find this interesting, cheers for now.

Interested that you have started your Z, "er indoors" bought me the kit for Christmas, although it is in a queue and therefore won't be started for a while, I will be interested to see how you get on. You shouldn't be disheartened Jack, in the photos it looks really good.

Steady work this week, after some three years inactivity I've managed to spray primer on the SEF R1 I'm building, this was after a 10 minute clean in the ultrasonic cleaner and a week drying: - Next task with this is to check over for coverage and any further filling (filled along the bottom of the tanks and along the top of the front buffer beam), then get some coats of black. I started my first painting task with this loco as it doesn't need lining, only numbers and a crest . Also been working on the layout, laying cobble setts: - All for now.

Some more progress, this week I have created another low relief building to go along the back scene, I have used the hoist end of the Scalescenes stone warehouse and covered it with brick textures. First photo is the two buildings compared: - Next two are of the new building in its location: - The front half of the layout is tramway style track (you can just see the double rails in the photo above) and I have finally finished covering the 11 packs of Wills granite setts and 2 packs of york stone paving with a black wash: - Another week done, I have my COVID vaccination on Saturday, maybe we will be able to get back to going to model railway exhibitions soon, I have missed them, virtual ones just don't seem to satisfy me in the same way.

As a "young adult" I always wanted a Mk1 3000GT V6, the only Ford I managed to own was a 1965 Anglia 1200 Super which lasted a year and failed its MOT!

Classic car, is it a 3 litre? Still no match for the 8-pot 97 litre beast behind it!

Another week on and a bit more progress on the layout: - One of the low relief corrugated iron buildings that I have made up a drain pipe for, decided the other one won't have any. This is all using Scalescenes texture papers. The little area all together, all the buildings are Scalescenes products. I have also managed to fire up the ultrasonic cleaner for the first time, I set it off with a number of old die-cast cars and a couple of other bits just to see how it did; it was filled with water, a pinch of washing soda and a couple of drops of washing up liquid. That all seemed fine and I can see the water has changed colour slightly although the bits didn't look much better. I have a couple of questions for any body who uses one of these cleaners: - Does the cleaner affect super glued parts? When cleaning chassis, can you clean pick-ups and wires etc. (obviously not the motor, gears, etc.)? That's all for this week, hope everybody is safe and well.

Kevin, I think that looks superb, I'm sure the original vans ended up all sorts of shades after some time in use. Excellent work.

Bit more progress on the layout: -

Afraid not, just picked up from training for footplate work at Didcot in the 80's, it was generally handed down. Would be interesting to see if it were in a rule book somewhere.

Yes, they should face the boiler (or inwards), but as you have discovered it is random, I would suggest lazy crew I'm afraid. Sorry Kevin, generally this would be impossible, the GWR/BR(W) lamps have a slot on each side, the spare lamp brackets are generally set sideways, so the lamps would only be able to face in or out. That doesn't mean that a particular loco wasn't built with the brackets wrong!

That looks really nice, the pep pipe looks spot on and I like the spare firing shovel in the hand-rail.

Hi Andy, Just watched the first two parts of the scenic demonstration, thanks for them, can't wait for part 3. Keep up the good work. I can sympathise with you not wanting to build locos, I dislike doing scenery and painting, much prefer to get a soldering iron out and put a loco kit together.