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Hi Dave What make/size of wheels are you using and which gear-box? (Sorry if you posted this already )

Hi Jack I've found that I have had to add some additional weight at the front to overcome the spring they supply, I have mine quite well balanced currently. The only problem I have noticed recently is that the loco and tender both appear to be riding high, not sure how I am going to cure the tender, but I am guessing I'm going to have to either remove metal from the chassis or the superstructure. I am amazed how quickly you guys work, my L class build has been going for 3 years now!

Jack The J is looking really good, interesting machine, it does look like an enlarged H. I like the piping on the I3 and I hope you resolve the problem with the smokebox door. Good luck with the W, I'll be interested to see how it goes; I have a PDK L1 waiting in the wings which will be the first etched kit I've attempted.

Ok, two weeks on and I have done some bits and pieces on the L Class, but first a delivery from Humbrol (Hornby!): - I decided I needed some new brushes and thought I would try out some of Humbrol's, so I bought one pack of each type of brush they make, so I could compare them. I also filled in some gaps in my paint & weathering powders selection. As some of my collection of Humbrol and Precision paints are now over 30 years old and I have only just started using acrylics, there are some gaps. On to the L Class, I fitted the handrails to the side and back of the tender: - I have also been fitting handrails to the locomotive, checking the handrail knobs supplied with the kit they are all the same length, I realised that the handrail along the boiler would require knobs of 3 different lengths, here are the knobs supplied: - My solution to this is to fix the two knobs in the smokebox and then keeping the handrail wire straight glue the remaining knobs not fully home: - So here is a general view of the boiler and the remainder of the superstructure, note I have also made and fitted the handrails to the running plate and cab: - Here is a view of the handrails on the back of the cab and front of the tender, I have glued (rather than soldered) the tender superstructure to the chassis; shame focusing has gone a bit wrong: - Then I moved on to some of the smaller parts on the loco, footsteps, sandbox lids, reverser, etc. I decided to solder the footsteps so that there was a bit more strength: - The remainder of the parts are glued: - That's the end of this installment, hope it is useful/interesting, thanks for reading.

A bit more done on Sunday (taken all week to get a quiet moment to post), this is the state of the tender at the moment: - I've soldered all the parts in place on one side and to each other. Next (as is my way of getting side tracked) I noticed the method of fitting the steps to the tender is to fix them to the solebar, I realised this might get in the way of my removable frame so I had a look at what I could do. The solution I came up with was to fit spacers to the back of the steps (I used offcuts and spare bits of white-metal), I soldered the spacers to the steps. So here is a photo of one side steps "resting" in place with the other two on the bench: - I decided that these would have to be superglued to the frames (rather than soldered) as I couldn't get the soldering iron in the tight space. Here is a second photo with the removable frame removed with the steps in place: - (Hope that is clear enough, click on the photo to enlarge it.) Once that interlude was finished I soldered the other tender superstructure side on, here are a couple of shots of the completed superstructure: - You may notice in the first picture I have drilled some 0.4mm holes in the top edging of the tender and the base plate for the hand-rails; I've also supergluded the two sand boxes to the tender front. (Note: in these pictures the superstructure is still not fixed to the underframe.) I then decided that I should try and get as much of the flux residue off the parts, I haven't tried washing any of the parts before and I haven't got any flashy sonic cleaners so I used an old toothbrush and plain water, as much as I could I scrubbed the parts. Here they are sitting in a tub on my patient drying device: - Hope that is interesting/useful.

Thanks for the info Chris, I will be persevering with the DJH tender for the time being, but I do have some modifications to correct what I have. No modelling today, been to Swanage for a post lockdown re-fresher on the footplate of 31806, so I thought I would take a couple of pictures of the top of the tender showing the various posts that stick up above the coal area for anybody who may not have seen them. Firstly the right-hand side of the tender (in this case the drivers side on the right-hand drive U class): - Secondly the left-hand (firemans side):- I have a third picture of the loco after we had arrived in platform 1 at Swanage showing the back of the tender: - I know this is Maunsell tender (it is actually the one from the N class 31874) and therefore a bit off-topic, but I hope they are interesting/useful. PS: - I have realised that the wording on the pictures is a bit small, if you click on the picture it will show an enlarged version.

Thanks Jack, I have read the PM and as you say the drawing shows some of the tender structure, which is different to the model. I also found Pete's DJH L Class build thread, I have had a read it today and found a couple of photos of a C tender at the Bluebell and the D at the NRM. They definitely show the coal rails aligning with the side tops, so I'll be modifying mine to suit, although the L tender appears to be larger capacity with higher side rails.

I have come to add the front and rear coal rails across the tank top and need to ask for a consensus of opinion about a couple of things. Firstly the rear coal rail fits into a slot created in the white-metal sides, I feel it is too far back as the top of the rail is in thin air, I have tried it forward of the slot and feel it looks a lot better in that position; so picture one shows it in the designed position, picture two propped in front of the slot: - The second issue I have is with the front coal rail, when fitted in position it only allows around 2mm (6 inches) for the coal to get to the shovel plate; picture three shows the front of the tender with coal rail in position and the tool box top in place, picture four shows the view down the slop the coal will roll to get to the shovel plate: - Now all things considered this doesn't matter as I guess this area will be full of coal and you would not be able to see it, but it did bother me that it isn't accurate. So suggestions on a postcard please. This also brings me to another question, so far when researching for this build I haven't found any photographs of the rear of this type of Wainwright tender. Sadly back in the day people took photos of the locomotive, it was just coincidence that there was a tender behind it! Does anyone have either a rear quarter photo of a L class or know if there any books with one in; I'm looking for detail of hand rails and draw gear, etc. It would also be nice if there are any pictures showing the top of the tender. Thanks for reading

Hi Dave et al I used the bank transfer method of payment and the goods arrived with me 5 days from ordering, I might expect that the current situation could add a bit of time. I have used mine (just the once so far) and was very happy, here is a link to my photo of it in use: - Bryan's Workbench (BTW Mine is the 4 axle jig)

OK, today I have finally managed to get the DJH L Class out of storage and assess where I am with it. The loco has the main parts of the superstructure together with the chassis and wheels, I have taken the motor and gearbox out (for some reason): - At the moment it seems quite well balanced with a spring on the bogie pivot and a plastikard box to represent the ashpan; I'll take some pictures on how I fitted the bogie. On to further work, I thought I would start looking at the construction of the tender, looking at the instructions and the bits it seems a bit complicated, anyway I decided that I would build it separate from the frames so I started with the back and one side: - Here they are with a Smart Models magnetic clamp holding them at right angles. I "tacked" the top and bottom of the joint (making sure the parts stayed at right angles) and then filled the corner with solder: - When soldering like this I solder half the joint, allow that section to cool before soldering the other half; if you run the soldering iron over the whole joint you will find that all the solder will become molten and the parts may move. Then I fitted the top, front and coal slope, I used the other tank side to hold the top and front in the correct position before tacking; then as before complete the joint in parts: - Here it is sitting on the frames, you do seem to need three hands to hold it together, I used the magnetic clamp (above) and one of the small G clamps that I got from In-Excess. That's all tonight, I'll see what the weather does tomorrow; fine and I will have to mow some grass!

Hi Graham I am liking the Leader in that confined yard, not sure it would have made all the tight curves! I'm guessing the signalman has ignored one of the standing instructions for the area. Is it a kit or scratch built?

Jack I like the solution to the misplaced chassis and the sand pipes, it is looking good. Shame about the grub screw, I've spent hours on my knees over the years looking for small pieces that have fallen/been dropped/pinged out of the tweezers, etc.; it is not fun!

I've also been looking forward to the "Z" build, I have absolutely no need for such a locomotive on the layout I have, but they look so good. It is definitely on the list of locos I would like to have seen working and possibly even travelled on.

The last two weeks have been interesting, I have managed to reduce my sons layout to components and half built a number of plastic kits; I'd forgotten how slow building plastic kits is if you try and get the parts painted as you build, the kits are, the Ratio loco servicing depot, Dapol village church (ex Airfix), the RM cover van body & yard office. Here are photos of the first two so far: - I decided to paint the exterior of the church when finished. My Sons layout went from this: - To this: - In much less time than it took me to put it together! The layout had to go as it was taking up room, my son had stopped using it sometime back and it was all first radius curves/points. That's all for now folks.

As the standard gauge buffer stop came into view I was thinking "somethings wrong here!".

Hi Andy Good to see you back, I can sympathise with the mowing issue, but at least the weather at the moment is not conducive to mowing! Hope your garage conversion goes well.

Hi Jack I have a particular liking for reminiscence books, so here are three of my favourites having a Southern flavour: - Hope that is useful.

OK, another update in less than a week! I have finished moving and sorting the model railway work bench, commandeered a desk and an old kitchen unit carcass (I was already using the old dining table on the right). I have also sorted and rationalised all the odd toolboxes, crates and cardboard boxes which contained the modelling paraphernalia, here it is: - I have decided to start off quietly with a plastic kit I bought a while ago for putting on the shunting layout: - I'll hopefully post a picture of some progress next week sometime. Anyway, hope everybody has been surviving during lock-down and COVID19, all keeping safe and well.

Thanks Dave & John I have found one which is a bit of a compromise between size and cost which seems to fit the bill, it is a GT Sonic 3L which has a tank (9.6inch X 5.6inch X 4inch (24CM X 14CM X 10CM), not quite as big as John's but the price (on E-bay) comes in at around £83 (the 6L ones seem to be around £200). Do you have to buy the additive fluid or can you use just water?

Hi Jack I'm afraid I have had a bit of a loss of enthusiasm over the last year and nothing has happened to the 3 locos I'm building (H, R1 & L) and the small shunting layout. This has mainly been due to a bit of a confidence issue and also spending the summer 2019 (July, August & September) being the part time shed foreman at Swanage Railway. The current situation has made me have another look at things and I am currently moving my model railway room into my daughters old bedroom (as she has now moved out and got married). So I'm hoping to pick-up tools again and re-start posting updates on here. The H and the R1 are both stripped down for an initial stab at painting, this is my nemesis, I am really scared of it. They will both be needing a bit of fettling after painting to get them finished. I need to finish building the L, I cannot even remember what is left to do, but I think the tender superstructure needs finishing and then detailing, then the dreaded painting and lining; I have all the Fox's transfers in stock ready for that. Then there is this: - This is a OO shunting layout based on the track diagram of Arun Quay, 110cm X 40CM, the track is all laid (DCC control), electrics done, most buildings built, needs the cobbles laid and the remainder of the scenery completed. Lastly, I also have another DJH L class, a SEF P class and a PDK L1 class in storage! Perhaps I'll take a photo of the new workbench later when I have finished finding a home for everything.

Hi Dave, would it be possible to tell us more about the Ultrasonic Cleaner itself, I have not looked at them at all and wondered what make you have and what capacity is it?

Hi Dave The H15 is looking good, I like your solution to transferring power from the tender to the loco. I also am looking forward to the Z, I have a liking for this powerful looking shunter and I am hoping that one of the main stream R-T-R manufacturers brings one out before I have to resort to building One!

Jack Yes, I have fitted the TSC to both the M7 and the H without issue, so you should be fine.

Watch out thinking that all direct-plug 8 pin decoders are equal, I tried fitting a Gaugemaster DCC29 decoder to my Oxford Adams Radial, I discovered that the body would not fit, I asked Oxford and they told me only the TCS DP2X-UK would fit. When I had both decoders to hand I realised the DCC29 was around 1mm thicker, I would expect the same issue with the M7 as there is only a very small space between the 8-pin socket and the top of the boiler. I suspect the same will be true of the Hornby H class tank. I haven't tried the new Hattons direct plug decoder, would be interested to know.

I use the BRDatabase website, it shows the allocations thus: - 30911 Dover Is that the 1982 Hornby version with tender drive (R0257)?