scanman

Thanks for the supportive comments and 'likes' folks. First modelling done, but it's over on my 'REC Farnborough' blog! http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1417/entry-14757-its-nice-to-be-back/ Plenty more coming here tho - I've found a prototype for the steam-powered stone saw I need for 'Ambridge' (at Hollycombe Steam Collection only 10 miles from me!). 'Box' looks like it will have to be relaid - foamcore as a baseboard has its issues as I've found out over the summer. Ah well, a chance to try out Easi-Trak'! And one or two of the commissions for 'Perfection In Miniature' have a railway theme - the 'Controlling The Trains Building' project at Didcot for one might appear on theses pages if it's not considered advertising! Once again, thanks folks Regards Ian

Not about the model this time - but after an abscence of several months, I thought an explanation was due! Health issues had taken their toll in early spring & summer but are (hopefully behind me now). One highlight was the help given by my accountant (who's the daughter of a modeller!) as a result of which a very nice cheque arrived from the taxman. I was contemplating a 3D printer but HMC's generosity did not run that far. Therefore I decided to refurbish the workshop (or 'studio' as my accountant insists!), the development of which is also tax-deductable. More importantly re-organisation would enable modelling to re-commence (both commercial & private!). Why? Well, there was the workdesk for a start, and the rest of the room was not much better! A visit to a national DIY retailer and production of a business card resulted in a traders discount card, and an hour later the trusty 'Picasso' was loaded to the gunwhales (literally the rear arches were rubbing on the tyres.... First thing was to virtually empty the room then relay the floor... (An Xmas present from my wife) and then various kitchen units were added. The result?? Mens sana in corporate sano. Or something like that! five days hard work, but now it's back to the modelling - IF I can find any of the projects!

One of the beauties of 'N' & 2mm - the ability to run full-length trains through a landscape that doesn't stop at the trackside fence!

Les, You might get a better level of response if you post the question in the 7mm interest group on the 'Forums' page, and also in the 'help & advice'forum. Just a suggestion! Kindest regards Ian

Hi Mikkel - Dingham couplings by any chance? If not, who's?? Looks very good! Regs Ian

Glad you're back and modelling again Job Regards Ian

Must be just the other side of the canal to a wonderful building built (I believe) by the L&NWR. Two-storeyed and semi-circular in shape. Had a hankering to model it after a month's course in Birmingham - but havn't got sufficient space to do it justice! Regards Ian

Job - You have my sympathy regarding the hayfever. Not suffering with that myself - but another 'bug' has slowed my modelling over the last few weeks (and everything else). As has been said elsewhere - look forward to better days and make plans.. Hope the pollen count drops soon, Regards Ian

Guilty as charged - and NOT recommended practice! Regs Ian

In article (3) I mentioned I'd mis-drilled a pair of holes - quite important as the relevant screws hold the motion thingummy assembly to the frames & has to be removable. The bodge is quite simple - cut some spare N/S from the fret and solder it in place... only don't cut it free with a slitting disc... However, having hand-cut two pieces the relevant sizes with a fret saw - one was attached to the underside of the cylinder block, and the other to the upper face of the frame spacer... Having drilled the relevant holes it's time to fit the 14BA screws & nuts. Not so easy - the 'reinforcing' on the frame spacer iterferes with placing a VERY small nut! One answer would be to use a longer screw & wangle (another term for bodging!) the nut past the frame spacer. The bodgers route? Use aforesaid carborundum disc to CAREFULLY remove material from the spacer (Left side), unil the desired clearance is achieved. Finally - job jobbed! Regs Ian

Hi Jack - As a certain Chinese person once said - every journey starts with a single footstep. If you've not built any etched brass kits, I'd always advocate starting out with something 'fairly simple' like an etched-brass wagon kit before launching in to a loco kit. They tend to be cheaper & more forgiving. There are lots on the market - something for everyone's region & taste. The hardest thing is making a start! Just make sure your soldering skills are up to snuff - practice on some of the spare material round the etch, using a decent iron and solder-cream (available from Carrs etc. Best of luck with whatever you do - and there's plenty of advice on these pages! Regards Ian

No update since early April - because I've been a good boy and followed my doctors advice... A very bad recurring bladder infection (they started to run out of antibiotics that would work - worrying) triggered by out-of-control diabetes (I'm now on insulin) has led to four months government sponsored model-making leave . Because of the insulin I've had to stop my driving job (temporarily I hope) so I'm on Statutory Sick Pay until the end of August... Very seriously my doc said to do absolutely nothing for the first month - and I must say I heartily agreed with him! I'll admit I did some work - followers of my FB page mentioned in the first post on this series will see that it was 'real rails' related! Anyway, on with the quarry loco. I decided to ease myself back in gently by continuing with the 'below the footplate' stuff. Chris's kits are about as close to 'shake the box' as you can get in etches, but this ain't no 'King'. The parts are so b...y small! Tonight I fettled the motion bracket/slide bar and cylinder block assembly. Anyone making the kit should ease any holes etc BEFORE removing them from the etch - and note that when it refers to '1.6mm holes' they are actually in part 92, not 90! A mistake of my own making was the easing of the holes in the cylinder block to accept 14BA screws. NOT 10BA as I did.... Bodge coming up... Front view of the assembly and Regards to all Ian

Trenails (to give the cocktail sticks their correct terminology :-) are right (despite the French being wine drinkers)! Wooden building technology closely follows that of wooden ships - so expect that your internal roof joists will be supported by timber 'knees' (visible if the damaged end is open). Very nice modelling as well!

Barry, The motor looks like a 'Romford Bulldog' (same stable as the wheels). It fits with your timescale as it was available (IIRC) from about the late '50s onward and (at the time) was oe of the better cored motors on the circuit. Like the 'Mink' as well. I find with Gean kits that the mouldings are superb - but the instructions leave a lot to be desired! Regards Ian

If you pick this up in time, bring it with you to Expo - I'm buying the Comet chassis & you're welcome to see if the rods will fit. I'm stewarding the event - mainly on 'exhibitors refreshments (upstairs by the lecture room) or on the main door. I SHOULD have a name badge on (that way I remember who I am...). Regs Ian (Barefoot)

"DOWN Rover!" Sorry - couldn't resist! Having done some casting myself, I'd be tempted to use a dental casting powder (like plaster of paris only finer). Tends not to warp in thin section, and is totally waterproof. I've successfully used it for casting garden-railway retaining walls (including curved sections...) BUT for your application you'd need to make masters for a radius'ed curve of course! Regs Ian

Olly - wish were that advanced when I was sixteen! Regs Ian

Pete Matcham's got competition! Regs Ian

Whilst the simplicity of a 'length' of track' appeals - consider another use for your diorama - that of a test track.. A single point with sufficient length lead-ins will provide you with a testing-ground for locos & stock. Putting a stop-block on one of them will also provide added scenic interest in the shape of a 'private siding? What ever you do - enjoy it. There's no point (excuse the pun!) otherwise! Regards Ian

VERY atmospheric - certainly good enough for a diorama!

Terrific layout - really captures the 'space' element beautifully. As to a name 'Nempnett Thrubwell' comes to mind... It sounds very 'Emmet-ish' - but it is actually a village in North Somerset - and has never had a railway connection. It's signposted from the crossing at 'Didcot Halt' at DRC (courtesy of the ex-Highways Officer from Somerset CC! Regs Ian

I'm watching this one with interest.. At last year's ExpoEM I bought various bits (loco body, tender body (not for a 28xx - might be a Dean from the 'Dean Goods') Tender chassis kit came from 'High Level'.. All I needed was the Comet chassis... Not in stock! Ah Well only a week to this years expo! If you're still puzzling over the tender & can get a mortgage have a look at Mr Finney's offerings..Superb! Regards Ian

Hi - Best of luck with the project - yuo ceetainly seem to be 'on track' with the background research! With regard to road vehicles (particularly 'private' ones) I wouldn't worry too much. The majority of vehicular traffic would have been goods vehicles - but still sparse. Even in the 1930's it was not unusual to see un-tarmac'd roads - basicallytwo wheel-ruts between the hedges with the wheel ruts separated by a central grass stip dotted with horse droppings. Private cars were few and far between - mostly owned by 'landed gentry' or village worthies like the doctor. Most people travelled by public transport or took the gig to the station. If you set the layout period during 'works week' - plenty of scope for running big engine hauling 8+ coaches takig the miners for theiur weeks outing to Scarborough! Good photo references for 'village life' can be found by googling the 'Francis Frith' collection. Even if your chosen village isn't covered, there will be similar groups. All the very best & welcome back to the fold! REgards Ian

Nice to see the trackwork and wine flowing nicely!