T30RRA

Hello, Can anyone advise what the prmrp class 14 kit is like? A lot of their kits have negative press and thoughts but understand this was designed by someone else

It's been a while but it's running now. Chassis is nearly complete. Ended up jointing and lapping the rods on the third boss. More photos soon.

Thanks Jintyman. I will look at Poppys wood panelling too and want the lighting but might also do full interior. Already have the stanchion and stove. Just an update to say I'm currently waiting for my riveting tool to arrive then the brake van will be "back on track".

As promised, some photos. Folded up the sides on the half etch line, folded out the tabs, overlaid the rivet detail for the duckets, put the cabin and van ends in and formed the door handles so far. Next job will be to solder the veranda floors in,

So I have recently begun my Conniseur Models brake van and intend to show here my trials and tribulations. This is only my second kit (My first I am also still working on). Photos tomorrow once I get on the PC.

Michael, It is indeed. It will be some time before I get into the guts of it but I will be sure to put some photos and updates of it. The DJH 03 is lovely but the instructions take a bit of reading and is mainly just photos of each stage. I completely messed the chassis up on stage 1 and had to reorder the main etch, spacers and axle bushes... nearly 20 quid later. Had I of done more reading first I would of also tapped the crank pin nuts and bushes 10BA and used 10BA bolts but alas I was too eager on that one. Good luck with yours.

I managed to pick one up from ebay a couple days ago and really am looking forward to it.

Thanks for the suggestions. The bushes aren't soldered into the rods but I did solder two bushes together and cut the end off where the rod sticks out (photo later) which dud help slightly. Sorry if I didn't explain that clearly. I agree about the motor and gear and whilst the motor is attached, the worm and gear have been removed at the minute so they don't restrict the wheels.

I have also just checked that the pins are square to the wheels and that the spacings of the rods and the same as between the pins and all is ok. Thanks.

Some photos to try and show things. I did try 2 crank bushes soldered together which has improved things (thin end to thin end and outer fat end filed down to fit inside the rod) but now they do half a turn, stick, then the driving wheel has to be rotated to free it up. Then it does the same but in reverse. The jacks and front wheels don't seem to stick at all.

Thanks Simon. I laminated all the rods together so sounds like I will have to dismantle them.

Thanks everyone. Where the rods kick out for the piece that attaches to the jack shaft, the axle bushes don't go all the way through. Is it a case of using two bushes or do they need soldering together or something?

Thanks every body. As I imagined one problem solved another created.... The con rods don't seem to be an issue now and I have had it going in a stop start fashion but this is because I've now got wiper pickups to sort. I don't seem to be able to get reliable power through them from the backs of the wheels. Should they sit flat against the tyre?

Thanks Michael.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I took the rods off altogether and it definitely turns without but the nuts were quiet tight. I've drilled the bosses again to clear out the solder from laminating and reassembled one side and left the nuts slightly looser than before and it now goes. Hopefully it will be ok when I refit the rod on the other side. If all goes to plan I will just need to adjust the wiper pick ups. They on their own cause some reliability issues at present even just testing it.

So got the chassis wired up and wheels turn fine. Added the con rods and now it won't budge. It's like it's seized up. It's a DJH 03 kit. Is this a quartering problem? Wheels are slaters and I've gone for right hand lead. Thanks.

Does anyone have photos of the first 03 diesels delivered to BR? In particular ones at Boston Shed or even better D2025? Long shot but can't find much on the web.

Thanks.

So i had a go at airbrushing last night and to cut a long story short not happy with the gloss as it looks TOO shiny. It has also ran in a few places and been displaced by the air flow on other passes. Im going to try and sand down what I can and do a second coat in satin to at least try and make a better job of it... any thoughts? I'm using precision paints but also think I over thinned the gloss a bit.

Some photos of the painted chassis and wheels. I'm not sure on the gloss finish but that's how the real thing was? The photos don't do it justice (the finish isnt actually patchy).

So I'm not happy with the primer on the counter balance weights but rest of the wheels are fine. Am I able to rub these areas down and overspray them? Or is it a full removal and start again?

So the reason for my questions is I'm building my first o gauge kit, a DJH class 03 shunter. The chasis is basically finished now. Tonight I countersunk and araldited the crank pins as recommended by Jim Mcgewons helpful how to and also epoxied the balance weights to the wheels. I will sand them down tomorrow where required. Pictures soon.

Brilliant, Thanks. Lovely model too.

So using etch primer on the nylon spokes wouldn't have an adverse effect? Thanks.

Stuck on how to prime Slaters 7mm wheels. They are steel rims with nylon spokes so surely they have to use plastic AND etch primer on the relevant parts?